So I added:
QSC clutch kit from RVS performance
Sportsman 850 Clutch Kits
Big Gun Exo slip on exhaust
https://www.biggunexhaust.com/produc…-eps-sp-09-16/
Polaris Blue Accent light kit
Blue Accent Light Kit | Polaris ATV
Rigid 10" LED light bar midnight edition
SR-Series 10" Midnight Edition Surface White Black… | Rigid Industries
Rigid 6" LED E series midnight edition
E-Series 6" Midnight Edition Surface White Black 6"… | Rigid Industries
Rigid headlight mount
2014-2016 Polaris Sportsman 850 Headlight Mount 46552… | Rigid Industries
Polaris Grip Warmers and throttle warmers
Hand Warmers | Polaris ATV
Throttle/Thumb Warmers | Polaris ATV
Polaris hand guards
Handguards- Black | Polaris ATV
Yuasa 1 Amp Automatic Battery Charger and Maintainer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HZTDKZG…_HKyuyb9CC9HZ3
(The same one polaris sells for $75)
First thing I mounted was the 10" rigid light to my bumper. Unfortunately the rigid mounting bracket holes do not match up with the holes in the factory bumper, but those are easily redrilled and the bar fits on perfectly. The LED came with quite a long harness so I custom fit all of that wiring to be the right length and also put it in a wire sleeve (automotive conduit). I supplied power to the light via a orange key on accessory wire to the right of the battery. I replaced the connections on those orange wires with waterproof connectors. The ground I added to the stack of ground wires already bolted to the frame. The control wires I ran to the pod and I was able to fit a switch in the pod plastic. So far this LED has held up to being waterproof in the rain and snow, but I haven’t been able to really test it in a mud hole yet. This light is extremely bright and I highly recommend it if you’re looking for a quality LED bar for your bumper.
The next thing I installed was the polaris OEM blue accent lighting kit. This kit comes with 4 fully waterproof LEDs that have long cables and a wiring harness. I was able to shorten the main harness up a bit and I pulled power for it from the other orange key on power accessory wire to the right of the battery, using another waterproof connector. The ground I added to the other grounds attached to the frame. This I was also able to wire to a switch in the pod, which helped keep the uniform look of the pod. The two front LEDs are zip tied using the ties the kit came with to part of the frame, and the two rear LEDs are screwed into the plastic using self tapping screws in the kit. I then ran all of the wires back to the engine compartment where the harness is located. The wires from the LEDs aren’t easy to re-end so I used zip ties and electrical tape to clean it up. The finished look of these LEDs is actually really cool. I know some people find it excessive but hey, it’s not your machine so shut your cum guzzler and stop being jealous. 🙂 these LEDs had held up to being waterproof but again I haven’t taken it in deep mud yet.
The next thing I installed was the new LED pod light with the ridgid bracket for it. I first had to dissassemble the pod and remove the incandescent light that is there fully. The new mounting bracket comes with instructions but pretty much you just have to loosen the handlebar bolts and it slips inbeteeen the bolts and gets tightened down. This mounting plate then allows you to put any 6" E series or the rigid dually LEDs. I was able to find online a premade converter so I could plug the rigid LED directly into the high beam plug. This means you don’t have to hook up any wiring harness or switches, the light gets turned on when I turn on my high beams from the factory handlebar switch. The LED is extremely bright and really adds to the visibility far down the trail. My only complaint with this is that I had to slightly modify the pod cover plastic that goes around the LED. I had to shave a couple mm off of the inside, but you can’t even notice. The other thing that’s a little bothersome is an inch gap between the top of the LED and the plastic. It changes the whole look of the pod, I’m just concerned about water or mud getting in there.
Next I added the polaris OEM grip and throttle warmers. A tip to remove the grips.. use a compressor with an air blower nozzle and stick that into the little hole on the end of the grip. Make sure you plug the other hole on the other end with a finger and then you can float the grip off. For wiring both of these up, I decided to tap into the 12v accessory power and ground wires that are in the pod already. This allowed me to keep everything clean and custom length. I mounted the switches to the pod, keep in mind the cutouts where I mounted these switches are larger than the switch, so be careful to not make the hole too big. I love these now that it is below freezing where I am. They make a huge difference plowing.
The polaris handguards are awesome. They installed in about 3 minutes.. it took me longer to adjust them to be even with each other than the actual install. They look great though the plastic on the inside could be finished off better. I think they improve the front look of the machine to a little more sporty feel.
The yuasa battery tender quick connect was super easy. Hooked the leads up the the battery and zip tied the connector to part of the frame under the front left wheel well, where it was easily accessible to be plugged in. Works great.
After searching around on this forum for exhaust information I decided to go with the Big Gun Exo slip on. The reason I chose this was because it doesn’t need a programmer and you still get some results. The factory muffler gets removed really easily by pulling off the springs holding it in place. And then it just slides to the right. Some people removed the heat sheild entirely when they installed their big gun but I decided to keep it in place. Putting the big gun on was just as easy. Slides on then two springs attach it to the exhaust. I highly recommend using needlenose vice grips to make your life easier getting the springs on. Holy fuck is this thing loud. If you’re looking for a beastly sounding exhaust this is for you. Personally I even noticed a gain in power when I grabbed the throttle too. Some people claim that this won’t add any horsepower to your machine without a full exhaust and programmer but from MY EXPERIENCE I call that bull shit. I put this on without the clutch kit and I could get the front end up on my bike. Which I could not do before this was installed, so in my opinion I think it could have added 1-3 hp to the wheels. So far I haven’t had any issues with the muffler at all. No melting stickers on it either like some people claimed.
The last thing I installed was the QSC clutch kit that I bought from Ryan at RVS performance. Big shout out to Ryan for being extremely nice and helpful on the phone answering all of my questions and helping me get just what I wanted. Using his instal video on YouTube it took me about 30 minutes to change my clutch out. I went with the small shim in the kit. Once I got it all back together and was able to see how it felt I wish I had done this sooner. The clutch kit really added some umph to the take off and I am very impressed with how it performs. I highly recommend this as the first thing people do to their atv. The shifting seems to be easier and smoother as well.
Let me know if anyone has questions on how I did something or what parts I used. In the spring I plan on adding Elka stage 3 shocks and some new rubber.
Once I am able to really put these things to the test I will do a follow up review on here! Thanks for reading, let me know what you think!
