Just got back my renegade 1000 from the dyno shop with 73rwhp, had 64rwhp before being tuned (YAY)
What would be my next step to increase power ? Thinking of putting a CVTech primary clutch… Don’t know if it would need another dyno tune after this ?
Tell me what are your thought guys, Thanks

I have a couple of rancher 420s…

There are about two days a year I need the mud tires but they wear poorly the there 354 days a year on hard ground, dirt roads and pavement.

I’m looking for some hard ground suitable Tires almost like the tread pattern on a golf cart.

Tire sizes
24×8-12
24×10-11

Would be happy to go to a slightly bigger Tire on the same factory rims.

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My new Oulanders, 650xl and 850xtp both came with ITP terracross tires, 26/8/14 in front and 26/10/14 in the rear. I’m looking and getting some spare’s and would like to stay with the same tires. I just found out that the 26/10/14 is supposed to be a factory size and my only choice to stay the terrecross’s is to go to a 26/11/14 or pay WAY more for the factory size. If I go with 11’s in the rear and 8’s in the front that seems like it would make my front tires really skinny in comparison.

Does that make sense and if so what should I do? Should I just run the 11’s on the rear and not worry about it or should I get wider front tires and how wide can I go on the factory front rims?

In the process of tearing this differential down for new bearings, the locknut was seized and pulled the threads off the housing. Since these things are now worth their weight in gold, I would like to salvage it. I can run the nut down about a turn and then binds up. I was thinking about cutting some slots in the nut to make it like a tap to maybe recut the threads when I seat it. Once I get it in place, I may carefully put a couple small blobs of JB weld to hold it in place since restaking it seems unlikely. I should be able to cut the job weld down the road if I need to ever build it again. Just a couple small blobs on top the lock nut to hold it in place if I can get it to seat first that is. Attachment 57777

Please see the pics and give your suggestions. Attachment 57785

Attached Thumbnails

 

 

I rode primarily in the mud and was thinking about removing my stock plastic a-arm guards. They collect tons of mud and debris any thoughts???

Thanks in advance.

How do I prevent this?

Mud and water gets in so easily!
After I go through anything over a foot either water is going down the intake or the wiring is getting wet but it starts to bog down a little until it’s cleared. A slight loss of power basically right after. And if I stop to shut it off soon after, it doesn’t want to start so smoothly.
Can am did a real poor job on the area even though I’m a total fan. I was thinking about duct taping the shit out of the inside and anywhere around I can. What do you guys think about my fix and or problem?
Thanks for reading

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Hello All,

So I finally pulled the trigger on a set of 360 LT’s for my 1000 outlander. It has been fun researching but I finally grew weary of watching endless youtube videos, searching forums for hours, and weighing the options. In the end, I was considering the long set because my wife and I ride together. It seemed to me that more track surface equaled lower ground pressure.

The general consensus seems to be that the camoplast is a superior system to Apache, and they have some very impressive videos online, however, I couldn’t nail down exactly why. I gave up when I finally called the guy at atvtracks.net. I wound up talking to the fellow in all the videos, and the first thing he asked me before I could ask any questions was what state I was from. He lost interest instantly when I told him I was from Canada. I guess he can’t ship them up here or something. Anyway, he begrudgingly agreed to answer a few questions if I would "make it quick". After a brief two minute conversation I couldn’t come away with anything more specific than "you can’t put apaches on anything other than Can Ams".

I have heard from a number of people that the Camoplast is the better system, so I won’t argue that. I will give a brief overview of the system I have, and answer any questions anyone wants to pose. I can provide measurements, pics, etc. I found it almost impossible to arrive at any info on the LTs.

So I went out today, (No snow, just hard rain, wet dirt, hay fields, and river rock). I was concerned about the turning ability of the tracks and had to try them out. I will say right off the bat these tracks do not turn, or ride like wheels. Those that say the power steering can be challenged by the tracks are exactly right, especially at very low speeds. However, I was able to make my way without problems through a winding, narrow forest path that required a number of very sharp 3 point turns. No heating up of the power steering unit so far. There were times though that the steering became very difficult, even with the unit set on MAX TRAX.

Length- The unit is extremelly long. 9 feet 7.5 inches. It barely fits into my 3 horse trailer.

Traction- I was shocked by the amount of traction, and it took a little bit to figure out how to get used to it. I climbed a hill of loose sand sitting at the angle of repose. It was far to step for me to sit in the seat and I had to stand with my feet against the rear rack, while my chest rested on the handlebars. I could stop at any time, and continue at slow speeds. The machine did not slip a track once. I do feel that if the sand were dry, I might have spun out. The sand was wet and packed well under the tracks.

I also climbed a steep hill of loose river boulders (ranging from .5 to 4 inches in diameter). The hill was once again at the angle of repose. I had climbed this hill with the quad previously and had no trouble, although I did need to approach with speed and the machine spun all four tires all the way up. The rocks were wet and slippery for the track run, while they were dry for the wheel run. With the tracks on, I was able to stop in the middle of the hill, resume moving slowly, stop again, and climbed all the way to the top without spinning at all.

To be clear, both of these hills were 30 ft maximum, not long climbs and the result may have been different if the climbs had been longer.

Ride: Not good. Nowhere near as smooth as the wheels, and I felt every bump. Also noisy. When I sped up on a gravel road I felt on the verge of loosing control. Perhaps this is due to inexperience, however, the tracks seemed to walk all over the place at high speed.

Can anyone tell me the difference between these two heated hand grips?:th_smiliethumbsup:

LIGHTS & ELECTRICAL – Can Am ATV »

Can Am ATV Heated Hand Grips & Throttle Combo – LIGHTS & ELECTRICAL

I don’t know if the more expensive one is an updated version or if its different. I’ve read that the plastic cases have been cracking and I’m wondering if that was the update.

I also need to know which ones to get, I have a 2017 outlander 650XL and a 2017 outlander 850xtp and I think the handlebars are different. I need one for each bike.

Looking for a good replacement seat for my 98 Scrambler. Mine is fragged in more places than I can count. I bought this thing new and hate to give up on it. I really would like one with NO cracks, but would buy one that is cracked less than mine, if that’s all that I can find. Thanks.

I just purchased a 2012 grizzly 300. Neither the headlights or the break light works. I checked the fuses which looked fine. Not sure where to look next. Tried searching but didn’t find anything solid. Thanks