I’ve been riding the ORV trails in Michigan for decades, mostly on dirt bikes, but in recent years there have been strides to widen them for quad and side x side use… With that said, we currently have over 3,800 miles of ORV trails and routes available, and just about all of the counties in northern Michigan above Saginaw, MI have legal riding on the shoulder of county roads with permit (under 25 mph) to get from one trail system to another and to travel into towns for gas, supplies, and lodging (check before riding).
A State bill was recently passed to add riding on State Forest roads starting in 2017, which is a plus to adding more options to where you want to explore.
If you never been to Michigan, there has never been a better time to see the Great Lake State from the saddle of your quad/4×4. DNR – ORV/ATV
Yes, I’m bias to our trail system, but the positive results throughout the years has evolved into an experience all can enjoy.
The Head Light ON my 2009 sportsman 500 HO wires disconeted causing the high beam not to work…. i took it apart and the wires slipped while on highbeams for testing and the wires touched, bike starts and runs fine. all the lights however including high beam low beams tail and break lights do not work… fuses are fine. amp meter shows no power what so ever right up to the kill switch lights and reverse over ride assebly… whats the problem
We recently purchased a used 1998 Polaris Sport 400L. The compression is 130 psi and has good strong spark (jumps a 1/4" spark gap tester). Has new spark plug too.
We rebuilt the carb and it has a 230 main jet so don’t think this issue is the carb.
The problem is its very hard to start warm or cold. Its like its flooding out. The choke it set up correctly (1/8 gap on the lever). When it does run it idles nice but when you hit mid and high rpm it wants to die (need to flutter the throttle to keep it going).
I did pull the reed cage and the reeds look fine but noticed it was very wet with fuel on the inside of the cylinder. I notice some vertical marks on the cylinder but they aren’t deep enough to feel with a fingernail and assumed if they were bad enough this would show up on the compression test.
I have a 02 ranger 500 series 10. I need a flywheel and plate asm. Flywheel is a ff95 part #3086857 and plate is part # 3086859. My question is can I use a ff95 flywheel or does the part number have to match also. I got a 3089247 flywheel
I have a 02 ranger 500 series 10. I need a flywheel and plate asm. Flywheel is a ff95 part #3086857 and plate is part # 3086859. My question is can I use a ff95 flywheel or does the part number have to match also. I got a 3089247 flywheel
I do have a shop manual for the beast so that helps.
1. My headlights are very dim even with new bulbs. I checked the grounds and those are good. THe wiring also ohms out good.
2. WIth the headlight on high the rev limiter kicks in and I have to push the reverse override button and it runs good then.
3. It’s not charging. I have a feeling it’s the regulator but I cannot find a testing procedure for that. I have not tested the stator yet but that will happen tomorrow.
4. When in reverse with AWD it does not want to go straight, it pulls right quite bad.
5. Is there a way to test to see if the oil pump works? It didn’t used to and that caused a toasted engine, so after being bored .010 over and a new piston I am running premix. But this summer I tore the oil pump down and inspected everything and it looked good so I don’t see why it wouldn’t be working. I just want to make sure before I toast another engine.
Other than all of that the thing still works good enough to plow the driveway and drive some back roads at camp. And for a 20 year old machine it still has the original tires…
I do have a shop manual for the beast so that helps.
1. My headlights are very dim even with new bulbs. I checked the grounds and those are good. THe wiring also ohms out good.
2. WIth the headlight on high the rev limiter kicks in and I have to push the reverse override button and it runs good then.
3. It’s not charging. I have a feeling it’s the regulator but I cannot find a testing procedure for that. I have not tested the stator yet but that will happen tomorrow.
4. When in reverse with AWD it does not want to go straight, it pulls right quite bad.
5. Is there a way to test to see if the oil pump works? It didn’t used to and that caused a toasted engine, so after being bored .010 over and a new piston I am running premix. But this summer I tore the oil pump down and inspected everything and it looked good so I don’t see why it wouldn’t be working. I just want to make sure before I toast another engine.
Other than all of that the thing still works good enough to plow the driveway and drive some back roads at camp. And for a 20 year old machine it still has the original tires…
