2009 700 TRV electrical help. Pretty please!!

Hi everyone,

Its been a long time since I was on here but we are at our wits end over my dads quad. And I’m sorry, but this is gonna be a long one…

It started very intermittently with the bike not starting. It would just whine over but if you turned off the key, then back on, it would start just fine. Over the years the bike has had the battery replaced maybe 4 or 5 times at Arctic Cat dealerships!

Recently, the bike just quit and wouldn’t start at all. The shop replaced the ignition switch, battery and foot break switch (they said it was stuck on and killing the battery). They also said that the crank positioning sensor was gone. We took the bike back and it would start and run but it was not charging. It would run forever but when you shut it off, it would need to be boosted or the battery recharged before it would start again. We brought the bike back to the dealer, they assured us that the stator was gone and this was likely the reason the bike had been through so many batteries. We decided to go the cheap route and had them install a Kimpex stator. After installation we were informed that the Kimpex part was faulty. They installed a second Kimpex stator which they also claimed was faulty. The third stator went in, this time an Artic Cat part. They sent the bike home with us but the first time we tried to start it, it wouldn’t start. Dead battery.

So far the machine has a new ignition switch, break switch, voltage regulator, and Arctic Cat stator. Finally we contacted Arctic Cat directly and they spoke with the dealership. Here is the text from an email my dad received from the dealership today…

Quote:

Good Morning Mr. Canning,

Just wanted to reach out and let you know where we are at with the ATV and working with Arctic Cat directly regarding it.

The Technician we have spoken with at Arctic Cat has reviewed our notes and what we have done to diagnose and repair the issues you are experiencing, and believe we are dealing with an internal draw that is being caused internally within the engine and starter system. Arctic Cat has informed us there are no other parts we can switch out to try to alleviate this.
The engine is going to need to be disassembled and torn down to determine where the internal draw is being caused.

We are currently awaiting to hear back from Arctic Cat to see if they will offer any kind of ‘Goodwill’ compensation towards the cost of tearing the engine down.

We will let you know what they have decided once we hear back from them.

Hope this information reaches you well.

Have a great day!


Doesn’t sound like they are trying to rip us off or anything but I’m hoping for some advice or experience based tips. Can something inside the motor parasitically draw juice from the battery? Could there be a wiring harness issue causing this?

Thanks in advance for any help or insight that you guys can offer

02 grizzley problem with axels??

Hi All. I’m new to the forum. I’m new to owning an ATV actually. I just got an 02 grizzley. We were riding all day today. Moderate riding. Towards the end of the day I was in my field going up a hill. I gave it too much gas and it stood up on the rear wheels. It came back down. Not hard. No problem really. Actually everything was very light. But now there is an extreme clicking in the rear ended. It drives still. Goes into all gears. Actual once it was in reverse and revved up and didn’t move but rolling the four wheeler forward and backwards made something click and then reverse worked. Anyway I’m not sure where it is exactly. I looked under there and noticed a rotor. The area the rotor is in seems to be where the popping is. Not sure if we should park it and let it sit until fixed or how big of a deal it is. Any help would be appreciated.

02 grizzley problem with axels??

Hi All. I’m new to the forum. I’m new to owning an ATV actually. I just got an 02 grizzley. We were riding all day today. Moderate riding. Towards the end of the day I was in my field going up a hill. I gave it too much gas and it stood up on the rear wheels. It came back down. Not hard. No problem really. Actually everything was very light. But now there is an extreme clicking in the rear ended. It drives still. Goes into all gears. Actual once it was in reverse and revved up and didn’t move but rolling the four wheeler forward and backwards made something click and then reverse worked. Anyway I’m not sure where it is exactly. I looked under there and noticed a rotor. The area the rotor is in seems to be where the popping is. Not sure if we should park it and let it sit until fixed or how big of a deal it is. Any help would be appreciated.

Rear Diff Rebuild Questions

The good news is that while taking my rear diff out, I found that I didn’t actually break it.

Ended up stripping the teeth on the rear sliding joint PN: 705500528. Looks like all of the lube leaked out a long time ago and rusted the teeth away.

Now that the diff is out I opened it up to find that the seals were leaking. The ball bearings and sealed bearings both move freely and with no slop.

Already took the axle seals off. And will replace the main seal between the two halfs.

The pinion and ring gear look great. No pitting and slight wear marks.

So with all of this apart, are there upgrades I can do to the G1 (original version) gear set or pinion? Also what else should I replace?

Thanks

New Buyer

Looking at a camo 2005 grizzly 660 with 474 miles aftermarket wheels, tires, warn winch, and snow plow. Its listed for $5500 and I feel like its a little steep. Can you give me an idea if that is a fair price or not? Thanks!

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