Hello guys, I have a ’16 commander. I have had no issues so far except one concerning thing. I washed my ride a few weeks ago and noticed right was i started to press the gas in low, it seems like she skipped once or twice before having no more issues at all stoping and starting. I figured it was some water somewhere. Fast forward to today and i cold started her and put in low, once again a slight skip when first giving gas. Not once did it happen again during the next few hours of stoping and starting. Any ideas besides burn spots on the belt?

Hello, First trip north with the new Sportsman went well…..temps were cool….39-44 degrees…..ran very well….prolly head back to the cabin in December…….👍

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Hello, First trip north with the new Sportsman went well…..temps were cool….39-44 degrees…..ran very well….prolly head back to the cabin in December…….👍

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Hey guys I’m looking for a 2" lifted for my 2016 XMR 570. I plan on running some 28" outlaw 2 and want some more ground clearance..SUPER ATV’s has a 2" lifted for the Outlander L series but it don’t list the XMR so I’m a little worried if I buy this lifted kit it won’t work…Is there anyone running a 2" lifted on there XMR 570 or should I run spring spacers instead???

Hey guys I’m looking for a 2" lifted for my 2016 XMR 570. I plan on running some 28" outlaw 2 and want some more ground clearance..SUPER ATV’s has a 2" lifted for the Outlander L series but it don’t list the XMR so I’m a little worried if I buy this lifted kit it won’t work…Is there anyone running a 2" lifted on there XMR 570 or should I run spring spacers instead???

anyone done it?..anyone got some tricks or tips?

if not ill just wing it n post here….

the quad in question is a 86 200sx fourtrax(the 2wd model)..body works been gone atleast 10+ years…ive had her since the mid 90s and by then the body was there but rough

ive been thru countless front wheels, the bodys long gone, new seat skin, clarke oversize clear tank, engine still strong as day 1

battery box currently fits a riding mower batter…bumpers will take down a tree or a full hard roll..i was pushing cars with them

both front wheels are that stupid tiny pattern..one has had the center crack entirely out the other just small cracks..both re-enforced with 1/8th inch plate welded in behind

i just picked up a 300ex in pieces..but i have the complete front end woth brakes as well as swingarm..some of the frame..and shocks and front wheels

the plan is to take and graft the 300ex front end on..either by way of a frame stretch or just tweaking and adding from the existing mounts..i figure someone here has probably done something along these lines…the rear id like to just swap the swingarm…tho ive taken no measurements yet..that disc brake sure will be nice

Hi,
new to the forum and have already found a lot of helpful information here over the years but never joined.

So I’ve been fighting troubleshooting my unit which will not run/start currently. I also have extensively read and followed all the troubleshooting in Stew’s threads.

I just created my own problem by breaking the retaining clip housing on the fuel regulator I was trying to replace. I cannot seem to find that housing anywhere on the internet. The 2007 is the type with the large clothespin type retaining clip that goest through 4 slots in the housing. The BWD 23020 did no seem to be an exact replacement and when trying to get it seated in the housing and inserting the clip the housing broke on one side.

So my first ever question on the forum is can I find that housing anywhere?

Here is what I did troubleshooting the machine. It had been running but over time it was sputtering and had poor throttle response at times until if finally decided not to run at all. if you pumped the throttle several times it sometimes would fire and only run on idle. When you tried to gas it, it would die.

First I found the rubber manifold was cracked between the throttle body and the cylinder so I replaced it. I also found the throttle cable housing where it entered the throttle body was broken so I replaced the throttle cable as well.

I went through the whole TPS setup procedure I found here. Set the base voltage first, then the tps idle voltage for my make model (I also have a printout of the complete service manual).

I replaced the TBAP harness with the improved harness because I read where broken wires were common. Wiring measures to spec with a VOM.

I measured the CPS and it was within spec with a VOM back to the ECU (no wiring issue in harness)

both injectors measure within ohms spec

no visible leaking fuel at injectors or rail.

battery in good condition, all voltages are present and correct.

put EFI gage on rail and measured 39psi +/- 3psi when key was on. HOWEVER it would drop to ~30-35psi when I would crank or get it to idle (which was always difficult)

So I bought a replacement fuel pump and installed, the pressure improved to within spec initially when key was on or when cranking running. After continued troubleshooting it began to behave differently which I will cover later and it led me to my current fuel regulator replacement attempt.

after seeming to have good fuel pressure it seemed that the ECU must be the culprit since I had tested most everything else.

I found a used ECU that was touted as "in working condition, verified on a machine". I bought it since the reviews of the seller were very high and large volume.

ECU made no difference.

at this time I began to notice that I would turn the key on and the fuel pressure would go to 39 psi but would bleed very rapidly down. The pump would come on (you could hear it run) then the relays under the hood would click and the pressure would rapidly bleed away.

I pulled the relays and the terminals were corroded. I cleaned them and pulled and checked all connectors I could find on the machine.

After cleaning the connectors on the relays the fuel pressure issue seemed to improve but still didn’t act correct according to the manual. it would pump to 39 then the relay would still click moments after turning on the key and the pressure would drop to around 30-35 and hold. I still suspected the regulator may be erratic so I bought one locally but broke the housing upon installation.

So that is where I am to this point…need to find the parts to repair it (I did see a post about using a hose clamp) but would rather fix it properly.

Also, have I missed anything obvious in all my troubleshooting technique?

Additionally, I do get good spark when i pull the plugs and test. I have not done a compression test yet

Sorry for the long first post….

Hi,
new to the forum and have already found a lot of helpful information here over the years but never joined.

So I’ve been fighting troubleshooting my unit which will not run/start currently. I also have extensively read and followed all the troubleshooting in Stew’s threads.

I just created my own problem by breaking the retaining clip housing on the fuel regulator I was trying to replace. I cannot seem to find that housing anywhere on the internet. The 2007 is the type with the large clothespin type retaining clip that goest through 4 slots in the housing. The BWD 23020 did no seem to be an exact replacement and when trying to get it seated in the housing and inserting the clip the housing broke on one side.

So my first ever question on the forum is can I find that housing anywhere?

Here is what I did troubleshooting the machine. It had been running but over time it was sputtering and had poor throttle response at times until if finally decided not to run at all. if you pumped the throttle several times it sometimes would fire and only run on idle. When you tried to gas it, it would die.

First I found the rubber manifold was cracked between the throttle body and the cylinder so I replaced it. I also found the throttle cable housing where it entered the throttle body was broken so I replaced the throttle cable as well.

I went through the whole TPS setup procedure I found here. Set the base voltage first, then the tps idle voltage for my make model (I also have a printout of the complete service manual).

I replaced the TBAP harness with the improved harness because I read where broken wires were common. Wiring measures to spec with a VOM.

I measured the CPS and it was within spec with a VOM back to the ECU (no wiring issue in harness)

both injectors measure within ohms spec

no visible leaking fuel at injectors or rail.

battery in good condition, all voltages are present and correct.

put EFI gage on rail and measured 39psi +/- 3psi when key was on. HOWEVER it would drop to ~30-35psi when I would crank or get it to idle (which was always difficult)

So I bought a replacement fuel pump and installed, the pressure improved to within spec initially when key was on or when cranking running. After continued troubleshooting it began to behave differently which I will cover later and it led me to my current fuel regulator replacement attempt.

after seeming to have good fuel pressure it seemed that the ECU must be the culprit since I had tested most everything else.

I found a used ECU that was touted as "in working condition, verified on a machine". I bought it since the reviews of the seller were very high and large volume.

ECU made no difference.

at this time I began to notice that I would turn the key on and the fuel pressure would go to 39 psi but would bleed very rapidly down. The pump would come on (you could hear it run) then the relays under the hood would click and the pressure would rapidly bleed away.

I pulled the relays and the terminals were corroded. I cleaned them and pulled and checked all connectors I could find on the machine.

After cleaning the connectors on the relays the fuel pressure issue seemed to improve but still didn’t act correct according to the manual. it would pump to 39 then the relay would still click moments after turning on the key and the pressure would drop to around 30-35 and hold. I still suspected the regulator may be erratic so I bought one locally but broke the housing upon installation.

So that is where I am to this point…need to find the parts to repair it (I did see a post about using a hose clamp) but would rather fix it properly.

Also, have I missed anything obvious in all my troubleshooting technique?

Additionally, I do get good spark when i pull the plugs and test. I have not done a compression test yet

Sorry for the long first post….

Ya know, everyone talks about lifted this or lifted that.
How about this!
2014 Craftsman XPS Shopvac
12 Gal
5.5 Peak HP
1 1/2" lift on 5" wheels.

I got tired of the stupid thing not being able to roll over its own cord!

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Ya know, everyone talks about lifted this or lifted that.
How about this!
2014 Craftsman XPS Shopvac
12 Gal
5.5 Peak HP
1 1/2" lift on 5" wheels.

I got tired of the stupid thing not being able to roll over its own cord!

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