Just purchased 2015 commander max 1000 limited anxious to learn about my utv! From Phoenix Arizona

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Hey All, I just got a used 1994 Kodiak off of craigslist at a price that I don’t mind letting it sit in the garage 10 months out of he year until hunting season. It runs well, idles a little too fast but ran down the road at 35 easy with no instability and all the gears worked. So, I already got a chilton manual on the way, a fuel shut of valve kit and a carb rebuild kit on the way. I personally ripped open the dried out cv boots on the test drive, so I’d like some advice on that. Any virus free downloadable user manuals out there? Also, any major watch outs I need to look at before I get 2 miles away from the hunting cabin?

Thanks, Jake

Hey All, I just got a used 1994 Kodiak off of craigslist at a price that I don’t mind letting it sit in the garage 10 months out of he year until hunting season. It runs well, idles a little too fast but ran down the road at 35 easy with no instability and all the gears worked. So, I already got a chilton manual on the way, a fuel shut of valve kit and a carb rebuild kit on the way. I personally ripped open the dried out cv boots on the test drive, so I’d like some advice on that. Any virus free downloadable user manuals out there? Also, any major watch outs I need to look at before I get 2 miles away from the hunting cabin?

Thanks, Jake

Hi new to the forum im rebuilding my 400ex. Doing a je 426 13:1 comp piston, webcam 479 grind with +1 valves im having the head work done by ftz. Also i will i am running the sparks bigcore exhaust. I have an 05 450r carb i plan on running on it and i want to make sure my jetting is atleast close for breaking it in right now it has a 48 pilot and a 175 main and im at 400 above sea level any suggestions would be appreciated

Hello from Michigan,
I’m new to this forum.
We have had a TRX90 for many years bought used my 3 boys have rode it and has been a real champ. Now the boys are too big for it and I want to sell it.

BTW it usually started on first or second pull. Not sure what year it is. Let me know if there is a way to tell.

However, it developed a leaking carb and I know the boys have messed with the carb settings and tried to fix themselves but only made things worse for me.

I bought a new carb for it thinking it would come with the factory settings and wouldn’t leak so it would be a drop in job and I’d be done.

No such luck….. I will admit I bought a carb off ebay I’m sure it’s a China version so don’t to be to hard on me. I just want it to start and run so I can sell it.

I have had it running but the engine was racing so fast I had to shut it down.

So I adjusted the needle to reduce the amount of gas thinking it would slow down the RPM. Then I couldn’t start it at all.

So I moved the needle setting back to the middle spot again and still can’t get it to start.
I also messed with the throttle cable adjustment and the idle screw.

Does anyone know how to set the idle screw and throttle cable to a neutral or factory setting?

Also how can I tell if the engine is getting flooded or if it’s not getting enough fuel?

Thanks for any help you can provide.
Cottageboy

I want to convert my headlights on my 2015 Rubicon to led pods which I have already ordered. My question is about the electrical draw. The factory bulbs are 35W (2.5amps) for each bottom and 55W (3.7amps) for the third headlight. I want to use (2) 42W to replace the lower headlights and (1) 50W but run it all on the harness for the lower headlights. I can use the one for the third headlight if I have to for the 50W. Would it be unsafe or cause problems to run 134W totally off the bottom headlights harness only using the factory headlight switch and existing harness for the bottom headlights? Can someone explain or tell me if they have done this. Input is great but I am looking for someone who understands the electrical side of it more in depth as to what can safely be accomplished.

I want to convert my headlights on my 2015 Rubicon to led pods which I have already ordered. My question is about the electrical draw. The factory bulbs are 35W (2.5amps) for each bottom and 55W (3.7amps) for the third headlight. I want to use (2) 42W to replace the lower headlights and (1) 50W but run it all on the harness for the lower headlights. I can use the one for the third headlight if I have to for the 50W. Would it be unsafe or cause problems to run 134W totally off the bottom headlights harness only using the factory headlight switch and existing harness for the bottom headlights? Can someone explain or tell me if they have done this. Input is great but I am looking for someone who understands the electrical side of it more in depth as to what can safely be accomplished.

Hi,

i have an outlander xt 650 max g2 2014 with a alpine super duty plow with the quick attach frame, would the pulley kit can am sell help with this kit as there is already one pulley on the frame?

Hi,

i have an outlander xt 650 max g2 2014 with a alpine super duty plow with the quick attach frame, would the pulley kit can am sell help with this kit as there is already one pulley on the frame?

I’m looking into buying a 2015-2016 foreman or rubicon. Standard foot shift is a must! No preference on power steering but kind of steering away (unless y’all talk me into it) and torn between rather or not I want IRS or sra! I’ve ridden ,and raced, race bikes all my life and enjoy throwing them around on the track or trail but…I’m getting old now and it’s hard to ride my wife and kid at the same time on my 450r. So give me yalls two cents worth! Mostly using this arc for family rides, some hunting and maybe very slight yard chores but not enough that suspension sag pulling a trailer will matter to me. Thanks in advance for your opinions!