Hi. .. I just got a 04 Honda rancher 350 es 2×4 that I’m currently converting to 4×4.. in the mix of getting parts I got a 05 rancher 400 engine with the es or automatic selectable tranny.. my question is first is will the 400 engine bolt right in an attach right to everything in the 350 ?? If so , can I use the carb off of my 350 on the 400 ?? An last , will the 400 run , shift by es or auto mode with the 350 es electronics or do I have to switch the wiring harness an computer ??? Thanks in advance

I’m hoping my 2006 outlander 400 has a common and not very expensive maintenance issue… actually 2 of them.

I noticed lately that if I go forward just enough to get some momentum and then let off on the gas and let the engine slow itself down I hear a screeching from under the seat or rear end. You would swear that the brakes have activated as it sounds like a friction squeak. I replaced the front brake pads and had no noises before or after that job. I keep thinking the rear brake is doing it but I’m not touching the brakes and as far as I know the engine doesn’t apply the rear brake when it is ‘self-braking’

What else could it be? Is it the clutch winding down as it slows down and gripping something? Is there a bearing in the clutch that is bad? I bought this less than a year ago and right before I bought it the prior owner had put a brand new clutch in, he had the box and parts on hand when I bought it. I always wondered if he had adjusted that clutch correctly as it seemed like when you take off you give it gas, nothing, nothing, then a lurch as you fly forward. Same in reverse, rev rev then wham you lurch backwards. I always thought the springs or something were too tight. Figured it was a ‘new clutch’ but that hasn’t changed in the last year. Now this metallic noise when letting off gas and when ‘engine braking’ is occuring but it clearly is under the driver or near the back.

I had my brother who is pretty good with these things look at things last night use a flashlight in the dark to check out under there. He noticed that my drive shaft U joint has tremendous slop in it and you can see where there is a lot of wear from the u joint slamming back and forth due to the slop. That is a critical thing that needs to be fixed but outside of a click when it engages, that would not explain the long screech when letting off gas.

So I can get the u joint fixed but that likely won’t explain the first problem.

Any tips on getting that U joint off and fixed? Do you have to take apart the rear brake? How do you disconnect both drive shaft ends? Do I take it to a frame or axle shot to get a new one pressed on?

I’m hoping my 2006 outlander 400 has a common and not very expensive maintenance issue… actually 2 of them.

I noticed lately that if I go forward just enough to get some momentum and then let off on the gas and let the engine slow itself down I hear a screeching from under the seat or rear end. You would swear that the brakes have activated as it sounds like a friction squeak. I replaced the front brake pads and had no noises before or after that job. I keep thinking the rear brake is doing it but I’m not touching the brakes and as far as I know the engine doesn’t apply the rear brake when it is ‘self-braking’

What else could it be? Is it the clutch winding down as it slows down and gripping something? Is there a bearing in the clutch that is bad? I bought this less than a year ago and right before I bought it the prior owner had put a brand new clutch in, he had the box and parts on hand when I bought it. I always wondered if he had adjusted that clutch correctly as it seemed like when you take off you give it gas, nothing, nothing, then a lurch as you fly forward. Same in reverse, rev rev then wham you lurch backwards. I always thought the springs or something were too tight. Figured it was a ‘new clutch’ but that hasn’t changed in the last year. Now this metallic noise when letting off gas and when ‘engine braking’ is occuring but it clearly is under the driver or near the back.

I had my brother who is pretty good with these things look at things last night use a flashlight in the dark to check out under there. He noticed that my drive shaft U joint has tremendous slop in it and you can see where there is a lot of wear from the u joint slamming back and forth due to the slop. That is a critical thing that needs to be fixed but outside of a click when it engages, that would not explain the long screech when letting off gas.

So I can get the u joint fixed but that likely won’t explain the first problem.

Any tips on getting that U joint off and fixed? Do you have to take apart the rear brake? How do you disconnect both drive shaft ends? Do I take it to a frame or axle shot to get a new one pressed on?

can anyone recommend THE BEST
polaris ranger 400 2012 seat cover & rear view mirror

thanks in advance

We are planning another guys ride to HMT next week. Leaving the wives and heading out for 3 days of trail dust. We love this trail systems and have been 4 times this year, never see the same thing twice even if you just went down the trail a few hours ago.

Hi folks,

Recently bought a 2017 Rancher 4WD. Love it so far and getting ready to do my first maintenance.

I had a few general questions about the Rancher that I hope you guys can help me out with:

1. I know you can leave a Rancher in gear when you turn it off. Can you still force the bike to roll or are the wheels effectively locked? Asking for theft prevention purposes(any tips on security would be great too).

2. How do you guys deal with rust? I noticed I already have a paint chip on my rack and figure rust won’t be far behind. And is there a proper way to wash a Rancher as not to leave hidden mud/dirt?

3. Any Do’s or Don’ts, Tips or Tricks, things a first-time ATV/Rancher owner wouldn’t know?

Much appreciated!

So, I’m under the seat to adjust the idle on the "new to me" 1998 explorer 400
(x-fire fighter machine 700 miles) And a hose pops off with an umbrella valve on it one side connected to the carb, the other ?????. I can’t find any parts breakdown or see ant spoit where is should go. Any help?
Begga.

Let me start by saying this is NOT a bashing thread, i love my ricochet skids and they have saved my quad from alot of damage from the trail. Also it was a very easy fix.

I noticed that i had to keep pumping my rear brakes up on my last big ride. When i got home i went to investigate and found that my skid plates were hitting my rear brake calliper and pushing the caliper apart when my rear shocks were at full extension.

I simply got out the grinder and took off some material to make room for both the skid and and brake calliper.

I wanted to bring attention to anyone that has these skids just to make sure noone experienced the loss of brakes when they need them. I will notify ricochet and let them know so they can make the needed adjustment and keep making a bada$$ product.

Attached Thumbnails

 

 

Let me start by saying this is NOT a bashing thread, i love my ricochet skids and they have saved my quad from alot of damage from the trail. Also it was a very easy fix.

I noticed that i had to keep pumping my rear brakes up on my last big ride. When i got home i went to investigate and found that my skid plates were hitting my rear brake calliper and pushing the caliper apart when my rear shocks were at full extension.

I simply got out the grinder and took off some material to make room for both the skid and and brake calliper.

I wanted to bring attention to anyone that has these skids just to make sure noone experienced the loss of brakes when they need them. I will notify ricochet and let them know so they can make the needed adjustment and keep making a bada$$ product.

Attached Thumbnails

 

 

I just put some HD epi springs on the rear of my 2013 sportsman 500. I mainly bought them for when we ride 2-up on our duck lease cause it’d squat bad. Also for when I ride by myself to give a little extra ground clearance in ruts. Is it still ok to put that adjustment all the way stiff or should i back it back down to the 3rd notch or so. I don’t want to put too much stress on the cv axles, but want to maximize my ground clearance too.