hello everyone, I’m looking for a fuel pack that’s worth owning. I have a 17 850 max xt-p with a little over 5 gallon tank, I don’t want to worry about gas half way through a ride.:th_smiliepissed: I heard some leak badly and don’t want to play that game. Any suggestions? TY DKinNH

Hello, I am replacing the bushings on the front A arm on my 2010 sportsman 500 touring. I ordered new OEM bushings. When I removed the old parts I can see the stock metal spaced (the hollow bar the bushings press on to) seem to have grooves cut into them. At first I thought they were worn, but it looks like they are machined this way?

Other than the grooves they appear to be serviceable. Can anyone confirm they come from Polaris with machined grooves and not a smooth outer surface? Thanks.

Hi guys.

I have got this for cristmas to test it. 🙂

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Anyone noticed how wobbly the headlights are in the 2016’s came up with a fix that takes almost all the wobble out and looks better as it fills in the gap between the light and plastic

Anyone noticed how wobbly the headlights are in the 2016’s came up with a fix that takes almost all the wobble out and looks better as it fills in the gap between the light and plastic

So I have searched and searched and I can’t find anything that fits the problems I am having. My fuel pump works….but only at a low idle. As soon as you Rev the engine fuel pump stops. Have constant power to pump verified with test light. Pump will not work hooked directly to battery so I am figuring the pump is bad but I just wanted some reassurance since it does work at an idle. I know it is a weird problem so I am asking you guys in hopes you have more knowledge about this than I do

So I have searched and searched and I can’t find anything that fits the problems I am having. My fuel pump works….but only at a low idle. As soon as you Rev the engine fuel pump stops. Have constant power to pump verified with test light. Pump will not work hooked directly to battery so I am figuring the pump is bad but I just wanted some reassurance since it does work at an idle. I know it is a weird problem so I am asking you guys in hopes you have more knowledge about this than I do

hello.

i just got this 2005 polaris predator 500

it just cranks over and wont fire…

i pulled the head and seen it had a bent intake valve.

so i bought 2 intake valves and laped them and installed them both/

i did the timming and i set it to tdc on the T in the eye on the mag window.

put the gold links lined up on the cams and the bottom to the timming marks.

cams are at 12 and 9 with the intake half a tooth advanced .. seen this on other posts.

I bought a new carb … still no fire… checked spark and it is getting good spark..

my plug is not wet with gas or smell like gas..

when i set my timming all up like it say to my cam lobes are facing in the same direction… is this right????

please help.. geting really pissed..

Thank you
Mark

So let me first say I’m not exactly sure if I should ask this here so if it’s a stupid question I apologize.
I was looking at past questions on break in periods and it got me to wondering what would happen if someone would not really break it in? Me personally, I’m trying to do things right and vary speed, not really hammer down, and watch prolonged cruising speeds. However, I still need to use the thing right? My first thoughts are the valves need to get seated as well as rings right? (As well as belt) What are some signs that maybe someone didn’t do things right? And what to do? Or would it be more of a longevity thing that you wouldn’t know until way later after owning it awhile? Again, I feel confident I’m fine. Just curious.

I picked up a TRX 300 2 x 4 today as a project rebuild. Can’t get it to shift into "N" so it will roll! Shifter will take it to other gears but not "N".

Have not attempted to crank or anything until checking out things first, changing oil, fuel tank and system, etc, and getting a battery.

Any suggestions on how to get it in"N" so I can roll it?

Thanks!!!