16 grizzly that sputters and stalls

• in reverse
• in diff lock
• on incline

Any ideas? She’s been temperamental like this off the showroom floor. My 10 grizz never had any issues. Keeping her in low gear on incline seems to help, but reverse is always a problem as is diff lock. Fuel issue, maybe?

Thank you.

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Hey guys, looking for some advice. I have a 16 grizzly that notoriously runs hot. I run mud and water in south Florida where its hot, and typically find a place to dip her and cool her off, and YES I CLEAN THE RADIATOR Religiously AFTER RIDING, but when I’m dry riding she overheats. All the time. I don’t want to relocate my radiator if I can avoid doing so. I’ve heard there is a particular coolant that I can run that will help keep the engine a little cooler, and at this point anything I can do to keep her even a little cooler would be great. Any ideas on what this magic stuff is?

Thanks in advance 🙂

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I have fought with the wiring on this bike right from the start. most of the wires in the handlebars have been repaired/lengthened. NOW, it runs for ten minutes or so then shuts down, just like the kill switch was hit. the error codes are 55 and 58. i have taken the front end plastic off now and found one broken wire there and repaired it, no difference. the fan runs when hooked to 12 v. when started, it will idle for ~15 mins then quits and will not start, rolls over fine but wont start, checked plug, has fire.after it sits for awhile it will start again. the fan doesnt run during this test, im thinking it is shutting off due to high temp but there is no HOT display on the dash?? Sooo,my question is its either broken wires to the temp probe or a bad temp probe? were is the temp probe located? thanks to anyone who can help out.:angryfire:

During the time I’ve been a member here on G.C., I lost track of the number of threads started to ask about C.V.T. belt wear.

I’m opening this discussion to bounce a few thought around the membership to discuss what really needs to be known to determine ‘How Much’ is ‘Too Much’, ‘What kind of wear is bad’ and what is really going on under the C.V.T. cover. (Like which came first? The Chicken or the Egg.)

First, I decided to start this thread from a recent thread about belt wear on a very new machine, and the dealer replaced the belt when it looked like new, probably just to sell parts and service.

First of all ask;
How would a worn belt affect C.V.T. performance?, and is all belt wear bad?
When the machine is brand new, with near a 2.5 to 1 ratio, (remember I always recommend knowing ‘your’ actual stock ratio to understand future performance). The belt is not riding out of the secondary, which means it is riding high the primary. (Not near the collar the movable sheave sides across)
If the belt wears (narrows) 2 mm’s, it still doesn’t ride out of the secondary and does not bottom out in the primary, so if it doesn’t slip, what is wrong?

Many members add shim to widen the primary to raise the ratio which causes the belt to ride out of the secondary and lower in the primary. I say adding shim is like running a narrow belt, so in effect a worn belt is a good thing as long it isn’t slipping.

On top of that, some Grizzly owners machine material off the movable primary sheave which widens the gap between the sheaves the belt runs in, causing the belt to ride lower in the primary, higher in the secondary, like a worn belt.
Additionally, some members combine shim and machining, but still the belt does not slip. Then going to another level, I played with narrowing my belt while adding shim and using machining for max ratio and still the belt did not slip.

It is my thought;
Not all belt wear is bad!
Yes if you run aggressive C.V.T. mods it takes less narrowing of the belt to cause the belt to ride on the collar causing belt slip. Generally the belt rubs the C.V.T. cover long before the belt rides on the primary collar. I do know of one member that experiments with C.V.T. mods, for racing applications, that experienced the belt riding on the collar, but that was a very rare situation.

I feel most members need to be concerned about the belt failing from cracks in the material more than from narrowing of the belt.

Those that need to watch for belt narrowing are the ones running C.V.T. mods with the belt rubbing into the cover. Any additional belt narrowing causes more cover rubbing which eventually causes a hole in the cover.

I say ‘If it Ain’t Slip’in, it’s O.K.’
And if it is slip’in, find out why.
Is the belt bottomed out or is the ratio too high for the secondary spring.

If you want to know the difference between two different belt, install each and count the ratio with each. A worn belt will produce a higher ratio, but again if the belt is not slipping, what’s wrong with the belt?

Post your personal finding and lets see where this goes:)

Just a quick heads up, check the coupling that goes over the output/through shaft and the front driveshaft and make sure its tight. Apparently the bolt that holds it on backed off on mine and now I get to pull the motor on a 10 month old machine and split the cases it to replace that through shaft thanks to Can-am’s poor QC and terrible design. :th_smiliepissed: So check it out on your machines, and maybe it’ll save someone a big headache…..

Attached Images

IMG_2667.JPG (1.50 MB)

Hi guys,

I have a 99 Polaris scrambler 500 with a worn camshaft and rocker arms. I know this is a common issue so was wondering if theres any aftermarket companys that make anything more durable? Does anyone have an extra laying around in decent shape they wouldn’t mind getting rid of?

newbie here just snooping around i have a 2014 sportsman 570 put it in four wheel drive front tire on right does nothing any help would be apreciated greatly
thanks if i’m not in the right place let me know

Anybody have a length measurement of a ~2011 Grizzly 550/700 with tracks installed?

My name is Jeff from China Grove, NC. I’m new to the group, I just got a new ATV for the first time. I got the 2016 Honda FourTrax Foreman Rubicon 4×4 the other day. I’ve already put around 30 miles on it. I couldn’t be happier with it at the moment. It has power steering (EPS), and the manual foot shifter which is what I wanted. A lot of them from what I saw are either electronic push button shift or fully automatic.

Well, we took it apart, seems like the High Sleeve and Low / Reverse sleeve were used up so we replace them.

Put all back together, same grinding noise as before but now not just in HIGH, but in Neutral

We had deducted that it was high gear because when riding, it only did it in High.

Now we jacked it up in garage and Neutral will give us the noise turning the rear tires backwards and same in high. Low and Reverse are OK.

Any ideas? seems something is hooking up when we spin it faster. Someone mentioned the Park Lever inside the clutch would move and rub the gear to park it. but reverse and low doesn’t do it

New cable, adjusted to shift and even with the cable off and putting in gear ourselves, same thing.

Here’s a video

https://youtu.be/zn5uflfV4B8