Scrammy 1K goes in for full fluid service, clutch install, wheel bearings, and diff cover install.
I purchased the clutch, wheel bearings, and diff cover on my own and am just having them install everything and doing fluids.
I was quoted roughly $300 for everything. I was like ok cool.

I dropped the quad off at 3:00. I missed a call from 5:00, message says "hey ummmm we close at 5:30 aaaaannnndddd you have to call us back ASAP about your Scrambler!"
I got the message at 5:45, I’m like what in theeeee!? I call, no answer. However I got to talking with the service writer and got his cell for some custom work he does on street bikes and stuff.
I call his cell and he begins telling me not only do I need the wheel bearings but my hub is egg shaped on the left rear, my brand new pads are shot, and I have a major problem with my front differential binding!

I’m like what theeeeee!!!?

He goes on to tell me I’m going to be in the hole about $1600!
I said how can you quote me a price without knowing exactly what is wrong as they hadn’t torn into the diff yet. He’s like well, that’s a rough estimate but it appears as though you broke a tooth on one of the gears in the diff.

Now, I ran Race Driven pads with no expectations other than to see how they would hold up. With bad bearings I wouldn’t have been surprised to hear they were wearing unevenly, but this guys is telling me it wore through the rivets and the inside pads are gone. Oookkk maybe this could have happened.
But to tell me my diff is fucked after I’ve never once had a problem with my awd system is a little weird!

Heading back down first thing Monday to see what’s up.
If this is the case with all these issues, this Scrambler is purely one heck of a piece of crap! I have less than 1000 miles on this quad. Now I do ride the shit out of it, but I’ve ridden the shit out of everything I’ve ever owned, not to be mistaken for abused, but I def ride the hell out of them.

Anyway, I’m done ranting just needed to get that out!

Will keep you posted.

Here is my first mock up of a "Tree/rock slider" what do you guys think? I’ve not seen another machine with these, was wondering if some of the GC guys/girls would be interested? I also have the ability to make a lot of different grizz parts. Front/rear bumpers, heavier duty racks, 2" receiver plates, front storage boxes, and more! I’m still in design process on a exo-skeleton and will start a thread with pictures once I get the kinks out of the design. If you can dream it I can build it! interest, better design, or anything you could think of to better the thought feel free to give feedback. Positive or negative. Thanks

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Here is my first mock up of a "Tree/rock slider" what do you guys think? I’ve not seen another machine with these, was wondering if some of the GC guys/girls would be interested? I also have the ability to make a lot of different grizz parts. Front/rear bumpers, heavier duty racks, 2" receiver plates, front storage boxes, and more! I’m still in design process on a exo-skeleton and will start a thread with pictures once I get the kinks out of the design. If you can dream it I can build it! interest, better design, or anything you could think of to better the thought feel free to give feedback. Positive or negative. Thanks

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ALCON,
As stated in the title I’m working on my 2004 Sportsman 700 efi.

The original issue:
The bike would start, idle smooth press in the throttle and the bike would completely die.

Issue is partially resolved:
1. replaced fuel pump
2. replaced fuel pressure regulator
3. replaced fuel filter
4. replaced spark plugs
5. put some injector cleaner in the tank and let is idle for about two hours
6. disconnected, cleaned and lubed a lot of electrical connections

The bike idles smooth, accelerates hard, HOWEVER.

When accelerating the low beam, high beam and cluster gauge light dims.
The light returns to being bright after a few seconds or when the throttle is released. There is no obvious issues with engine power cutting out when the lights dim.

The only other know issue is the battery is as dead as Jimmy Hoffa, I’ve been jumping the bike with starter pack.

Thoughts?
Suggestions?

I read over AK’s post from a few years ago as well, the information on the fuel pump, regulator, etc. is appreciated.

Thanks.
Nic

ALCON,
As stated in the title I’m working on my 2004 Sportsman 700 efi.

The original issue:
The bike would start, idle smooth press in the throttle and the bike would completely die.

Issue is partially resolved:
1. replaced fuel pump
2. replaced fuel pressure regulator
3. replaced fuel filter
4. replaced spark plugs
5. put some injector cleaner in the tank and let is idle for about two hours
6. disconnected, cleaned and lubed a lot of electrical connections

The bike idles smooth, accelerates hard, HOWEVER.

When accelerating the low beam, high beam and cluster gauge light dims.
The light returns to being bright after a few seconds or when the throttle is released. There is no obvious issues with engine power cutting out when the lights dim.

The only other know issue is the battery is as dead as Jimmy Hoffa, I’ve been jumping the bike with starter pack.

Thoughts?
Suggestions?

I read over AK’s post from a few years ago as well, the information on the fuel pump, regulator, etc. is appreciated.

Thanks.
Nic

I just bought a 2017 sportsman 850SP in late November, I started and used it two times shortly after, only 3 miles on it. the problem, I went to start it two weeks ago, and the battery was dead. I put a charger on it for a hour, and it started up, let it run for 10 minutes. today I went to start it, and again it was dead. put a cheap tester on the battery, and it said 20 percent.

what is the problem here, do I bring it back.

I just bought a 2017 sportsman 850SP in late November, I started and used it two times shortly after, only 3 miles on it. the problem, I went to start it two weeks ago, and the battery was dead. I put a charger on it for a hour, and it started up, let it run for 10 minutes. today I went to start it, and again it was dead. put a cheap tester on the battery, and it said 20 percent.

what is the problem here, do I bring it back.

Well here’s my month old Quadboss Pile Driver 60" snow plow after a few uses. The plow is actually in the straight position. If you look you will see the silver pivot bolt is no longer located in the center of the push tube. The bolt is not broke. I was able to finish plowing with it and was able to adjust it to different positions just fine. Pretty disappointed in this plow overall.

First use with it I made it half way down the driveway before both of the mounts for the plow feet bent right over. I removed those and ended up putting a piece of pipe over the cutting edge which actually worked better overall. And now this. Bummer.

#Quadboss

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Well here’s my month old Quadboss Pile Driver 60" snow plow after a few uses. The plow is actually in the straight position. If you look you will see the silver pivot bolt is no longer located in the center of the push tube. The bolt is not broke. I was able to finish plowing with it and was able to adjust it to different positions just fine. Pretty disappointed in this plow overall.

First use with it I made it half way down the driveway before both of the mounts for the plow feet bent right over. I removed those and ended up putting a piece of pipe over the cutting edge which actually worked better overall. And now this. Bummer.

#Quadboss

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I’m just going with the half front windshield for now but would like a full rear window in the future. Just was wondering if when trailering at high speed if the wind would blow out the rear window or not?