I have a honda 400ex and my over flow tube is leaking fuel. Just put a brand new carburetor on it couple weeks ago and it started after the first week. I’ve removed it several times check the float the needle etc everything is fine. I put it all back together is it will do fine for like 10 min then just steadily pour fuel out. Does it have anything to do with the fuel drain screw I felt I read about that somewhere. Even if I tap the carb it won’t stop leaking. Any help would be great. Thanks

Running into a strange problem with my old ’95 TRX300FW. Whenever I try to start it with the electric starter, the engine cranks but never fires – it’ll crank until it kills the battery with nothing but an occasional ear-shattering (literally, rifle-shot loud) backfire. Choke on, choke off, 3-4 hits on the carb primer, same thing every time. However, if I try to start it with the kickstarter, it will fire right up on the first or second kick (regardless of whether I try starting it with the electric starter before the kickstarter or not). This happens regardless of the ambient temperature.

Starter solenoid is new, battery is relatively (~2 years) old, carb has been pulled and cleaned, spark plug is brand new (old one wasn’t fouled and looked fine, but I replaced it since it was out), idles dead-nuts even when it’s running. Tends to bog for 2-3 seconds when hitting the throttle while cold, but that goes away as soon as it gets rolling.

Not quite sure what to look for at this point.

Running into a strange problem with my old ’95 TRX300FW. Whenever I try to start it with the electric starter, the engine cranks but never fires – it’ll crank until it kills the battery with nothing but an occasional ear-shattering (literally, rifle-shot loud) backfire. Choke on, choke off, 3-4 hits on the carb primer, same thing every time. However, if I try to start it with the kickstarter, it will fire right up on the first or second kick (regardless of whether I try starting it with the electric starter before the kickstarter or not). This happens regardless of the ambient temperature.

Starter solenoid is new, battery is relatively (~2 years) old, carb has been pulled and cleaned, spark plug is brand new (old one wasn’t fouled and looked fine, but I replaced it since it was out), idles dead-nuts even when it’s running. Tends to bog for 2-3 seconds when hitting the throttle while cold, but that goes away as soon as it gets rolling.

Not quite sure what to look for at this point.

Attachment 58786
These worked out perfect!

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, just purchased what I thought was a blue and yellow 2002 Polaris Sportsman 500 x after trying to get a plow for it at a local Polaris dealer the VIN number I gave them off my bill of sale says it’s a yellow 2000 500 Sportsman I called Polaris directly and they also say it the VIN number is a 2000 yellow Polaris 500 Sportsman can anyone tell me how I could tell the difference between 2000 and 2002 Sportsman x I’m trying to contact the cell to confront him with no responseit

, just purchased what I thought was a blue and yellow 2002 Polaris Sportsman 500 x after trying to get a plow for it at a local Polaris dealer the VIN number I gave them off my bill of sale says it’s a yellow 2000 500 Sportsman I called Polaris directly and they also say it the VIN number is a 2000 yellow Polaris 500 Sportsman can anyone tell me how I could tell the difference between 2000 and 2002 Sportsman x I’m trying to contact the cell to confront him with no responseit

Hi
I was wondering if anyone on here would happen to know what setting I would need to put my trinity racing stage IV turner on? I have a stage IV slip on and K&N air filter. I also have 1.5mm shim in the clutch and 27in tires. Thanks for any info

Hi
I was wondering if anyone on here would happen to know what setting I would need to put my trinity racing stage IV turner on? I have a stage IV slip on and K&N air filter. I also have 1.5mm shim in the clutch and 27in tires. Thanks for any info

I have been working on my neighbors 2011 Rancher with PS and ES and 4×4. FPA Model. Problem I have had was bad battery in May that was causing electrical low voltage problems. New Battery. FIXED. Then, in June, a code 23 on the DTC and replace of the Shift Angle Sensor. FIXED. Read about the stiff grease that Honda put in the Shift control Motor Gearbox. Cleaned out a small amount of grease and put in some lithium grease and put back together. All good till the other day, 5 months later. Found code 23 and 15. Bought 2 shift angle sensors and a shift solenoid valve. BUT I have charged the battery, even though it was plenty high, and cleared all codes. Now it runs fine in auto and ESP modes. When I shift into Reverse, then back to Neutral all is good. BUT then it won’t shift into 1 or D. I tried using the 8mm socket on the shifting shaft. NO luck. Then I pushed the 4 wheeler forward in neutral and thumb shifted to 1 or D and it went in. Something binds it from Reverse to 1 or D. Any ideas? I am hoping it is nothing inside, but I am running out of ideas. I will play some more with it when I feed the horses tomorrow. Thanks…

Hey guys please help cleaned carb, bike runs starts great. Also put 42 idle jet in, new float, &new float needle due to carb leaking. Carb is still leaking after this. Drain screw is tight and the seal is new as well for carb bowl. Any ideas? Gas is slowly dripping out overflow and possibly where the throttle linkage is on carb?