I have a 1998 TRX300 2×4 and the starter went out. I got the starter installed without any problems but when I re-assemble the left side crank case something is causing it to bind up. I can hit the starter button before I finish tightening down the bolts and it turns fine but as soon as I get everything tight, the starter is not able to turn the gears. It actually binds up while the bolts still have threads showing. I have tried 5 or 6 times and I also checked the diagram and everything seems to be going together correctly. Everything spins easily when I turn them by hand before I install the cover. Any ideas or suggestions? The bearing seems to be spinning easily as I checked that last time out. It seems something is just a bit off causing it to bind up when tight.

Oh Man, this is a big recall.
:th_smiliepissed::th_smiliepissed:
Polaris Recalls Sportsman 570 All-Terrain Vehicles Due to Fire Hazard | Polaris Industries

I have an 850 touring. After about 3 years of pushing around rock and snow the belt started to slip. I went to the dealer to get a belt and noticed the original belt number was 3211123 but had been changed to 3211160 . When I went to swap them the new belt was thicker . I figured it’s a heavy duty version so no problem . Ever since I put the belt on its hard to shift. Shifts great in park with motor off, shifts good when you start it and out of park . After that shifts hard. If I turn it off it shifts easy again. Pulled the belt cover off and when you first start it the belt doesn’t turn. Once you power it up the belt engages but never stops spinning even when you put it back in park and let it idle. I think that’s why it’s harder to shift.
Anyone run into this problem?
If I have to run this wider belt what adjustment do I need to make to the clutch to get it work right ?

My petcock leaked thru the handle so bought a replacement inner gasket thinking it might be the only replaceable part. The kit came with two screws to replace the rivets. I drilled out the rivets before realizing I used a larger diameter bit than the kit screws came with. Cut off the rivet heads and disassembled the petcock–here’s what to see.

The rotating positioning piece of the petcock contacts the gasket and directs flow from the main or reserve pipe, or to a blocked position for OFF. I’ve cleaned up the parts but also noticed a grooved oring on the positioned I hope this doesn’t become a problem. Also the new gasket is a smaller diameter than the old one.

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I recently acquired my first 400ex and I’m having an issue. When I got the quad it was running but it was burning oil bad, leaking from the head gasket and was ticking pretty bad. I figured no big deal I bought it cheap so I’ll rebuild the top end and adjust valves. Well I finished my rebuild and it fired right up but still clicks bad. So I took the valve cover off and adjusted them again just to make sure I didn’t make a mistake. It still does it. While I was doing the rebuild and put it back together I physically felt the chain tensioner engage and everything felt tight. What am I missing… I would say the clicking is just as loud as before the rebuild and sounds like it’s in the top end. I would prefer to not just throw parts at it as I’m doing pretty good budget wise on it and can still bail if something is seriously wrong. What are your thoughts? I’ll try to post a video

I just bought a used Renegade 1000 and I am doing basic maintenence

I watched YouTube and did the rear final drive but on the front I see the fill hole but no drain plug like the back.

Also, why do i see everyone calling the front are rear drives ‘Differentials’?

They cannot differentiate can they? They look like just basic drives correct?

Also I have 32 inch tires on this beast and I know I will be needing clutch/drive upgrades. Suggestions?

It’s winter so I’m working on rebuilding some parts on my 1987 Big Bear 350. Got it from my uncle this past summer for nothing. Sat around for a while then I began to play with it. I don’t have any pics of it prior to tearing it down except this one.

First I experienced a small, occasional clunk noise. Quickly found out that gas was entering the crankcase and flooding the engine- pretty much turned my oil into gas. Carburetor rebuild is on my list. Worse problems were soon to come, with an oil leak at the transfer gear and middle gear drive. At first it smelled like gas, which led me to believe that it ruined the seal on the transfer gear.

I found it a whole lot easier to remove the entire engine. Getting the middle gear and transfer gear out was impossible with the engine still in; the drive shaft splines are rusted into the transfer gear yoke. I’m not gonna be rebuilding the engine as it was running amazing prior to the tear down. The focus will be on the drive train, rear-end, and carburetor.

Of course when I removed the middle gear cover, I slipped and put a small hole through the casing. Was thinking about JB Welding it, but I believe I can pick one up for $30.

The S.O.B. causing me tons of problems.

Was able to open up the transfer gear case after removing the final drive u-joints and yoke. Found it particularly easier for being my first u-joint ever. It was a pain to remove the circlips as they were on the inside rather than the outside. The inside looks great.

U-joint, o-ring and shims (that of course split cause they were rotted) from the middle gear drive.

I was making good progress until I went to tackle the lower u-joint on the transfer gear. It will not budge. I use the hammer/socket method since I don’t have access to a press. Any ideas how I can get this sob to break loose? I’m thinking heating it up…

Looking forward to some input and advice from you guys as I progress with my rebuild!

It’s winter so I’m working on rebuilding some parts on my 1987 Big Bear 350. Got it from my uncle this past summer for nothing. Sat around for a while then I began to play with it. I don’t have any pics of it prior to tearing it down except this one.

First I experienced a small, occasional clunk noise. Quickly found out that gas was entering the crankcase and flooding the engine- pretty much turned my oil into gas. Carburetor rebuild is on my list. Worse problems were soon to come, with an oil leak at the transfer gear and middle gear drive. At first it smelled like gas, which led me to believe that it ruined the seal on the transfer gear.

I found it a whole lot easier to remove the entire engine. Getting the middle gear and transfer gear out was impossible with the engine still in; the drive shaft splines are rusted into the transfer gear yoke. I’m not gonna be rebuilding the engine as it was running amazing prior to the tear down. The focus will be on the drive train, rear-end, and carburetor.

Of course when I removed the middle gear cover, I slipped and put a small hole through the casing. Was thinking about JB Welding it, but I believe I can pick one up for $30.

The S.O.B. causing me tons of problems.

Was able to open up the transfer gear case after removing the final drive u-joints and yoke. Found it particularly easier for being my first u-joint ever. It was a pain to remove the circlips as they were on the inside rather than the outside. The inside looks great.

U-joint, o-ring and shims (that of course split cause they were rotted) from the middle gear drive.

I was making good progress until I went to tackle the lower u-joint on the transfer gear. It will not budge. I use the hammer/socket method since I don’t have access to a press. Any ideas how I can get this sob to break loose? I’m thinking heating it up…

Looking forward to some input and advice from you guys as I progress with my rebuild!

Hey all, I’ve been lurking around these forums for a while. Finally will introduce myself. I’m a farm boy from Canada, currently enrolled in motive power programs at college. I have a 1987 Big Bear 350 that will be getting a drive train rebuild (there will be a topic in the Big Bear subforum). Looking forward to spring and summer, mudding and touring on the bikes and quads. My other toy is a 1977 Honda XL125. Can’t wait to learn some new stuff and share my rebuild with you guys!

Hey all, I’ve been lurking around these forums for a while. Finally will introduce myself. I’m a farm boy from Canada, currently enrolled in motive power programs at college. I have a 1987 Big Bear 350 that will be getting a drive train rebuild (there will be a topic in the Big Bear subforum). Looking forward to spring and summer, mudding and touring on the bikes and quads. My other toy is a 1977 Honda XL125. Can’t wait to learn some new stuff and share my rebuild with you guys!