Started up my ATV yesterday and drove some few meter before the belt started slipping. Thought it may could be water and opened the drain plug and all the engine oil camed out.

Do I have a big problem or could it be a easy fix?

If it is the primary sheave seal, could this be changed by just removing the primary sheave? Without splitting the engine case?

Thanks in advance.

Started up my ATV yesterday and drove some few meter before the belt started slipping. Thought it may could be water and opened the drain plug and all the engine oil camed out.

Do I have a big problem or could it be a easy fix?

If it is the primary sheave seal, could this be changed by just removing the primary sheave? Without splitting the engine case?

Thanks in advance.

So I need a new seal at the very least. Is there a way to replace this seal without pulling the ending or front gearbox out of the frame?

Hello together i would like to connect my navigation device what options are there?

I would be interested in how you did it?

I have read that an original cable should lie under the speedometer

With my old xtp I could make the speedometer panel as in the video at the xmr 2016 does not go!

What am I doing wrong here for help,At the moment I get the electricity from the cigarette lighter,This option is not as good as water can cause a short circuit 🙁

greeting Outlander

heres my brake saga, have 2010 ho 500, the emergency brake has been out of action for a long time , not to worry the main brakes still worked , so i brought my bike home from the farm were i leave it and gave it a service, noticed the rear suspension bushes were badley worn so ripped out the whole rear end and fixed, then i decided to fix my brakes , down hill from here, every time i tried to bleed them got hugh amounts of air , so pulled the rear calliper off then apart all looks good put back on still the same, decided to bleed the front brakes and the nipple broke off so got the easy out and it broke off so stuffed, went to my local polaris dealer to get a new one and quoted $500 au each , got two from usa for $220. ok put them on and still the same:sasmokin:ok ,next i priced a new rear master cylinder from my polaris dealer $450. au , on line usa $25 +$20 delivery ,still the same problem, bugger the front master cylinder must have died so i thought, my local dealer $650 au on line usa $45 us + delivery / $70 au , sweet i thought , still the same problem, stripped the whole bike down removed the fuel tank to try to bleed the four way valve, no luck , still full of air , :sasmokin:
bugger again will replace the rear caliper so i thought , easire to by chicken lips than one of these , $600 au local/ found one from partzilla $175 au ,waiting for it to arrive , decided time to cover with petrol and burn, this has draged on for two months and has almost killed me as this prosess is so simple to bleed brakes on any other vehicle which i have done many times , but polaris is something from another planet,

Found a Honda 500 out in the bush in the middle of nowhere in surprisingly good condition. Wheels/rims, winch and airfilter? were gone. What is worth grabbing from that quad

Figure the seat which is decent condition, the gas cap, and if I can get it off the aluminum skid plate.

The rollers were the winch wire go through are still there, the center console/handlebars & controls for the speed etc is still in perfect condition. Some of the red plastic outer shell is still decent.

hey guy my 2016 sportsman 850 brakes are rubbing very bad any ideas on how to fix this?

2004 Honda TRX450R

Laeger Long travel A Arms
Pep triple rate with reservoirs
Leager long travel swing arm
Pep rear shock with reservior

HRC kit
Tag bars
White brothers pipe
Dominator rear axle
Roll design pegs
Half nerf bars
IMS large capacity fuel tank

Itp holeshot mx tires on HiPer carbon tech
Carbon fiber wheels

Runs and handles great

$4200 obo

Can email me directly at
Motoghost@gmail.com

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Freekin help me please!
2015 sportsman 570
my brakes needed replacing i knew.This is how it all went down.
The reservoir for the front brakes went dry and i was unable to start the bike because the brake lever had no tension/pressure.towed it to the trailer loaded it up took it home and let it sit for a week or so before i messed with it.I added brake fluid and goit it to build up pressure and was able to start it.I put it under the shed to fix the brakes latter.I was going to ride my other bike and went to move this one.It was realy hard to get it to roll.Had to give it alot of gas for it to move at all.Before i got done moving it to get to the other bike i ended up having to put it in 4WD to move.I thought seeing how it was balls ass cold that day ,maybe i had air in the brake lines and it was froze up.
So i replaced the brakes and found i have a broke axle and bad wheel bearing in the back.The thing is no matter where the shifter is none of the tires will spin.Any ideas guys?The bike is a year old.

Hi all,

A couple of days ago I changed the timing chain on my ’96 TRX300 2×4, ran into an issue with the change clutch not engaging the crankshaft when I put it back together, but with some help from shadetree, I managed to get everything put back together, and working properly. I also adjusted the valves (.006 at TDC of the compression stroke), changed the oil and filter, and gapped the spark plug that was set at .020 instead of .031-.035 (note: it ran ok at the smaller gap, but I wanted it set correctly). After I got it put back together, I took several short test drives of approximately 100 yards each to make sure everything seemed ok, and there no indications of a problem. In fact, it ran MUCH quieter than it did prior to the timing chain swap, and it accelerated smoothly.

Today I decided to align the front end, but when I finished that, I jumped on, started it up, punched the throttle a couple of time, and I thought I heard a faint knocking noise coming from the right side of the engine at the moment I hit the throttle each time, but not after the RPMs had increased. I was able to duplicate it with each subsequent blip of the throttle from idle. When I put it in gear, that’s when the knocking noise was much more discernible (i.e. louder and more pronounced). I did my best to pinpoint its exact location using just my ears and a long tube, but I could never get a specific location except that it really sounds like it’s coming from the top of the clutch cover, only barely….barely ahead of the oil filter — not directly below the cylinder (at least that’s my impression).

Since I had changed the oil, I figured I’d check to make sure I didn’t put the oil filter in backwards, even though I was certain I had not. I was correct, I had installed it correctly, and it was populated with oil, so I assume too that the oil pump is working.

At this point I haven’t opened it back up before I get some ideas from others. So, any suggestions?

Thanks!

Edit: It’s worth mentioning again that the knocking/slapping noise is ONLY evident when I first hit the throttle. Everything seems ok after the RPMs are increased.

Edit2: So as not to omit any possible clue, I should mention that I test rode it once today prior to aligning it, and it ran well. After aligning it, it was in 3rd gear, so I attempted to down shift it to neutral, but it would not. I tried rocking it like I had to do in the past, but that didn’t work either. For whatever reason it suddenly started shifting correctly without rocking it, and it’s shifted fine since (better than before I removed the clutches to change the timing chain).