man I have had enough of the outside corners of the xt bumpers always catching on tree so I finally cut them off and made these , just got to weld paint and then probably make some for the front as well
tired of bumper corners
man I have had enough of the outside corners of the xt bumpers always catching on tree so I finally cut them off and made these , just got to weld paint and then probably make some for the front as well
2001 rubicon 500 code 10
Just picked this quad up for cheap I was under the assumption that it needed a transmission but after pulling the shift motor i noticed it was locked up and was able to free it. I am currently getting a code 10 but at completely random times just as I fire it up then it might be good for a while or after doing a bunch of donuts. What happens is the d1 d2 and esp all start flashing and it will only run in first and shudders in reverse. Usually I can turn the machine on and off a couple times and it goes out of limp mode. so far I have done the following
cleaned and dielectric grease all connectors
bench test shift motor
checked resistance of angle sensor-checked ok
checked power and grounds to ecm-good
cleaned all grounds
battery is good
took shift motor apart and cleaned, it looked good before cleaning
machine has 4000km
i went to the dealer were the previous owner had it and they said they had diagnosed it as needing a new ecm which is what I’m leaning towards but the previous owner declined to have the repairs done.
Any input or suggestions would be appreciated I just wanted some more input before I put out the money for an ecm. I’ve searched around and read most of the posts about these problems online and the repair results seem to be across the board or people never posts when they have actually figured it out. I’ve also tried clearing the codes and initializing the ecm multiple times and it will still randomly go into the limp mode after. After clearing the codes and initializing it will go into limp mode the next time I turn the machine on or just cuizing around. I drove it across the yard after clearing and initializing went through all the ESP gears d1 and d2 and it wouldn’t go into limp mode. I’m leaning towards the ecm but I though something could also be given not on with the shift motor and throwing the ecm off.
cleaned and dielectric grease all connectors
bench test shift motor
checked resistance of angle sensor-checked ok
checked power and grounds to ecm-good
cleaned all grounds
battery is good
took shift motor apart and cleaned, it looked good before cleaning
machine has 4000km
i went to the dealer were the previous owner had it and they said they had diagnosed it as needing a new ecm which is what I’m leaning towards but the previous owner declined to have the repairs done.
Any input or suggestions would be appreciated I just wanted some more input before I put out the money for an ecm. I’ve searched around and read most of the posts about these problems online and the repair results seem to be across the board or people never posts when they have actually figured it out. I’ve also tried clearing the codes and initializing the ecm multiple times and it will still randomly go into the limp mode after. After clearing the codes and initializing it will go into limp mode the next time I turn the machine on or just cuizing around. I drove it across the yard after clearing and initializing went through all the ESP gears d1 and d2 and it wouldn’t go into limp mode. I’m leaning towards the ecm but I though something could also be given not on with the shift motor and throwing the ecm off.
Okay so I just went took out the ecm so I could have a look at it checked the voltage at the angle sensor this was good. Initialized the computer. Then started it and shut it off a couple times and I get a code 5 twice I also seem to still be getting the code 10 at random. I initialized a couple times and the shift motor is still going through it’s cycle but it sounds bad. It sounded good with 12v hooked up on the bench but on the machine it
sounds slow and whiny. I wondered if there was a issue with the shift motor and it was sending a signal back to the ecm. The previous owner said he was flying along a logging road and then it just started slowing down untill it hit the basement. I know there is no "1st" gear but that’s what he said all the way down to first but he never said anything about the dash blinking just sent it strait to the dealer.
2001 rubicon 500 code 10
Just picked this quad up for cheap I was under the assumption that it needed a transmission but after pulling the shift motor i noticed it was locked up and was able to free it. I am currently getting a code 10 but at completely random times just as I fire it up then it might be good for a while or after doing a bunch of donuts. What happens is the d1 d2 and esp all start flashing and it will only run in first and shudders in reverse. Usually I can turn the machine on and off a couple times and it goes out of limp mode. so far I have done the following
cleaned and dielectric grease all connectors
bench test shift motor
checked resistance of angle sensor-checked ok
checked power and grounds to ecm-good
cleaned all grounds
battery is good
took shift motor apart and cleaned, it looked good before cleaning
machine has 4000km
i went to the dealer were the previous owner had it and they said they had diagnosed it as needing a new ecm which is what I’m leaning towards but the previous owner declined to have the repairs done.
Any input or suggestions would be appreciated I just wanted some more input before I put out the money for an ecm. I’ve searched around and read most of the posts about these problems online and the repair results seem to be across the board or people never posts when they have actually figured it out. I’ve also tried clearing the codes and initializing the ecm multiple times and it will still randomly go into the limp mode after. After clearing the codes and initializing it will go into limp mode the next time I turn the machine on or just cuizing around. I drove it across the yard after clearing and initializing went through all the ESP gears d1 and d2 and it wouldn’t go into limp mode. I’m leaning towards the ecm but I though something could also be given not on with the shift motor and throwing the ecm off.
cleaned and dielectric grease all connectors
bench test shift motor
checked resistance of angle sensor-checked ok
checked power and grounds to ecm-good
cleaned all grounds
battery is good
took shift motor apart and cleaned, it looked good before cleaning
machine has 4000km
i went to the dealer were the previous owner had it and they said they had diagnosed it as needing a new ecm which is what I’m leaning towards but the previous owner declined to have the repairs done.
Any input or suggestions would be appreciated I just wanted some more input before I put out the money for an ecm. I’ve searched around and read most of the posts about these problems online and the repair results seem to be across the board or people never posts when they have actually figured it out. I’ve also tried clearing the codes and initializing the ecm multiple times and it will still randomly go into the limp mode after. After clearing the codes and initializing it will go into limp mode the next time I turn the machine on or just cuizing around. I drove it across the yard after clearing and initializing went through all the ESP gears d1 and d2 and it wouldn’t go into limp mode. I’m leaning towards the ecm but I though something could also be given not on with the shift motor and throwing the ecm off.
Okay so I just went took out the ecm so I could have a look at it checked the voltage at the angle sensor this was good. Initialized the computer. Then started it and shut it off a couple times and I get a code 5 twice I also seem to still be getting the code 10 at random. I initialized a couple times and the shift motor is still going through it’s cycle but it sounds bad. It sounded good with 12v hooked up on the bench but on the machine it
sounds slow and whiny. I wondered if there was a issue with the shift motor and it was sending a signal back to the ecm. The previous owner said he was flying along a logging road and then it just started slowing down untill it hit the basement. I know there is no "1st" gear but that’s what he said all the way down to first but he never said anything about the dash blinking just sent it strait to the dealer.
95 scrambler 400 4×4 parts
Transmission ready to go for 250 $ shipped in us
Carb needs cleaned 90$ shipped
Secondary clutch with belt 45 $ shipped
Cylinder and head has surface rust was removed from engine that needed new piston and rings no visible cracks 125 $ shipped
Clutch cover 45$shipped needs cleaned
Make offers
Bottom end of motor with internal electrics oil pump includes cranks just doesn’t have cylinder and head assembly
Brake lever w/ resivor
Throttle block thumb with cable
2 front purple and 1 rear purple shock I would assume that they are original
95 scrambler 400 4×4 parts
Transmission ready to go for 250 $ shipped in us
Carb needs cleaned 90$ shipped
Secondary clutch with belt 45 $ shipped
Cylinder and head has surface rust was removed from engine that needed new piston and rings no visible cracks 125 $ shipped
Clutch cover 45$shipped needs cleaned
Make offers
Bottom end of motor with internal electrics oil pump includes cranks just doesn’t have cylinder and head assembly
Brake lever w/ resivor
Throttle block thumb with cable
2 front purple and 1 rear purple shock I would assume that they are original
95 Big Bear 350 Carb Questions
I have a 95 big bear with a mikuni carburetor and unfortunately the previous owner tightened the fuel mixture screw down to the most lean setting and I ended up stripping the head off of the screw trying to free it up. Is there any way to play with the mixture by raising the main jet, I’m not sure if you can raise and lower the main jet on these carbs. When going from an idle to a pin, the quad begins to die and if I stay on it the quad eventually just quits, not 100% sure but that normally points toward lean. If anyone can help me out here I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks!
95 Big Bear 350 Carb Questions
I have a 95 big bear with a mikuni carburetor and unfortunately the previous owner tightened the fuel mixture screw down to the most lean setting and I ended up stripping the head off of the screw trying to free it up. Is there any way to play with the mixture by raising the main jet, I’m not sure if you can raise and lower the main jet on these carbs. When going from an idle to a pin, the quad begins to die and if I stay on it the quad eventually just quits, not 100% sure but that normally points toward lean. If anyone can help me out here I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks!
95 Big Bear 350 Water in Differential.
Found my oil in my rear diff had water in it so about 3 months ago I replaced the oil and just checked it and found yet again it was watery. Thinking I’ll just do differential seals as that is what normally allows this. but first wanted some input, the diff doesn’t leak a drop from anywhere. It is a possibility it is allowing water in at the differential connection to the swingarm and where the housing bolts together. I don’t think I’ve ever gone past the diff vent tube in water so that probably isn’t an issue, if I do seals I’ll be routing the hose up high to rule that out. If anyone has some ideas it would be greatly appreciated! Thanks
95 Big Bear 350 Water in Differential.
Found my oil in my rear diff had water in it so about 3 months ago I replaced the oil and just checked it and found yet again it was watery. Thinking I’ll just do differential seals as that is what normally allows this. but first wanted some input, the diff doesn’t leak a drop from anywhere. It is a possibility it is allowing water in at the differential connection to the swingarm and where the housing bolts together. I don’t think I’ve ever gone past the diff vent tube in water so that probably isn’t an issue, if I do seals I’ll be routing the hose up high to rule that out. If anyone has some ideas it would be greatly appreciated! Thanks
