2015 570 over voltage code now won’t start

I have a 2015 570 with about 1300 miles on it. Went to ride it up the street today and when I pulled out of the garage the check engine light came on and it stalled. Looked up the code and it was an over voltage code. Started it back up and rode it a short distance hoping it would clear itself up but it didn’t. Pulled back in the garage, shut it off and restarted it again in neutral and it was idling at 2300rpms. Disconnected the stator so that it would just run off the battery, and the problem was still there. Disconnected the battery and went to work, got home, reconnected it and now it just turns over but won’t start.

I have a voltage regulator on order but don’t know what could be causing the no start issue. The check engine light is no longer on.

I appreciate any help, I’m kind of stumped and don’t want to have to bring it to the dealer.

2015 570 over voltage code now won’t start

I have a 2015 570 with about 1300 miles on it. Went to ride it up the street today and when I pulled out of the garage the check engine light came on and it stalled. Looked up the code and it was an over voltage code. Started it back up and rode it a short distance hoping it would clear itself up but it didn’t. Pulled back in the garage, shut it off and restarted it again in neutral and it was idling at 2300rpms. Disconnected the stator so that it would just run off the battery, and the problem was still there. Disconnected the battery and went to work, got home, reconnected it and now it just turns over but won’t start.

I have a voltage regulator on order but don’t know what could be causing the no start issue. The check engine light is no longer on.

I appreciate any help, I’m kind of stumped and don’t want to have to bring it to the dealer.

Why are both my front hubs busted up?

So i have a ’13 sportsman 500 and took the hubs off the other day to clean grass from behind them. I noticed my front left hub was sheared off at the part that slides into the bearing. I put it back together and went for a ride anyways while I waited for new bearings and hub to get here since I figured it had prob been like that for several rides anyways. Went today to take both struts off to get new bearings pressed in and noticed the other side did the same thing during the ride I just took!! I ride flat easy trails with moderate mud, 28 inch tires but always ride in low and have a qsc clutch kit. The bearings were about due for replacement but didn’t make any noise or have THAT much play in them. What would cause the hubs to shear like that? I know there were torqued down properly too.

Mounting tires at home.

Just bought my first set of tires for my 570. 26×9 and 26×11 bear claw htr and delta steel wheels.

I always mounted my dirt bike and lawn tractor tires with spoons. I always scratched them up too.

I decided to make some homemade tools and give these tires a shot. No need to describe, pictures are easier than explaining.

My first try to mount the tires was a failure. I revised the mount end by putting a bigger angle on the piece of plate that guides the tire into place. After the change, it works great.

I haven’t tested the demount end yet.

I won’t lie and say mounting these tires was easy. I broke one hell of a sweat! I had a hard time wrestling the first bead of each tire onto the rim. I did this by hand, no tools. The fronts weren’t too bad but the rears were tough.

Mounting the second bead on the front tires with my bar was easy as can be!

Mounting the second bead on the rear tires was a bit of a struggle. Reason why is because it was tough to push the tire down into the recess of the rim as i moved along. I think the design of my stand is a problem. The rim is tight to the top of my stand. If I were to mount the rim a couple inches up it would allow me to push the tire down into the recess easier as I work the tool around.

I also hard a hard time getting the front tires to take any air at all. I take the valve cores out and used a blow tip to set beads. Even with a ratchet strap, I struggled getting them to take air.

Setting the rear beads was a snap. No ratchet strap. I just bounced the tire on the floor a couple times and they instantly took air.

I bought a .99 cent cutting board from Walmart, $2 worth of screws from lowes, a $15 bottle of RUGLYDE and a $3 applicator brush from NAPA. The rest of the materials were from the scrap pile at work. There is a local shop that charges around $30/set to mount. I didn’t save much but it was a good experience.

Anyone have some tips for setting beads on narrow tires?

I’d like to find an air chuck that locks on the valve stem and will work without the valve core in place.

Attachment 68202

Attachment 68210

Attachment 68218

Attachment 68226

Attachment 68234

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Attached Thumbnails

Click image for larger version

Name:	20170118_203219.jpg
Views:	N/A
Size:	105.3 KB
ID:	68202
 

Click image for larger version

Name:	20170118_203232.jpg
Views:	N/A
Size:	39.8 KB
ID:	68210
 

Click image for larger version

Name:	20170118_203240.jpg
Views:	N/A
Size:	40.1 KB
ID:	68218
 

Click image for larger version

Name:	20170118_203258.jpg
Views:	N/A
Size:	109.2 KB
ID:	68226
 

Click image for larger version

Name:	20170118_212748.jpg
Views:	N/A
Size:	80.5 KB
ID:	68234
 

Replacement front seal differentiel touring 2009

I need to change my front seal differentiel . The seal is the one coming from the pro shaft drive to the front gear case . Polaris don`t sell the seal separate but only in kit 3234593 .$85.00 Canadien !!! . Anybody have found a jobber seal if yes part number if available . Next question after removing the pro shaft and gear case cover is it easy to replace ? My atv is a Sportman touring 500 Efi touring 2009 (33000Km or 20000 miles) Thanks for any help .

Chains designed for your personality!

Visit Us On FacebookVisit Us On TwitterVisit Us On YoutubeVisit Us On LinkedinCheck Our Feed