The installation on the 900s is very easy compared to the 800s. I kept all the nuts and bolts and seatbelts I took off, but I replaced everything with 1/2" bolts and nuts grade 8. I like to be a standard kind of guy instead of metric when I can. Also I did not have to enlarge any of the tabs or holes. 🙂
You need to remove the console by removing the 5 push pins and the two torx screw bolts. I did not completely take it off, just took loose the shifter boot and turned the console sideways.
Next I took out the seatbelt receivers. Push them down through the console and save the boots. The bolts on these were metric and the drivers receiver has the engine governor switch attached to it. I unplugged the switch and installed the override plug I purchased ( about $13 ). I zip tied the plug body ( so it has no way to come apart ) and then zip tied the plug to the bracket that the coolant line is attached to so it didn’t fall down in and for easy access in the future. Some are splicing the wires, but I didn’t want to have any issues with moisture when riding in water.
Next were the bolts and nuts at the top corners of the cage. Take loose and put nut back on bolt.
Next were the seatbelt retractors. DO NOT try to undo from the inside seat area. The bolt has splines on the bolt AND WILL NOT TURN ! Take the nut off between the rocker panel and receiver tab on the frame. A socket and ratchet will fit down between the rocker panel and receiver tab with no problem.
I took all the bolts, nuts, and belts and stored them in the box that came with my new harnesses. I also saved the receivers, because I can see in the future people needing the drivers receiver for the governor override and you may be able to make a couple of quick bucks.
What I purchased for the install
These are all grade 8
24 – 1/2" washers ( I used 3 washers on top harness hookup )
10 – 1/2" x 1 1/4" bolts
10 – 1/2" locks
10 – 1/2"nuts
2 – pieces of 1900# chain that had 2 links
I want to let you know there are aftermarket brackets out there for the upper and lower harness tabs if you want to spend the money. You can also reuse the metric bolts if you want. I didn’t because I like standard bolts.
I started with the center lower inside harness tabs first. With the chain link install a bolt, washer, chain link, frame tab, washer, lock washer, and nut. Then I trimmed the tops off the receiver rubber boots with scissors slid them on the harnesses, put the harnesses through the console then connected the harness tab to the chain with bolt, washer, chain link, washer, lock washer and nut. The chain link keeps the harness from twisting when mounting.
Next I went to the lower outside harness tabs. Bolt, washer, frame tab, washer, lock washer and nut. ( The picture shows 1/2′ X 1 1/2" bolts because my kids borrowed the 1 1/4" ).
At this point the console can be reinstalled and the rubber boots put back into place. FYI if your one of the people that do not read owners manuals now would be a good time to GREASE THE FRONT PROP SHAFT ZERK that is under the console.
blue override plug zip tied in corner.
For the upper harness tabs I ran them over the roll bar and used the tabs on the bar. Bolt, washer, harness tab, washer, roll bar tab, washer, lock washer and nut. I adjusted the harness itself until the padding was about even with the headrest, restrung through the harness buckle then took the excess harness ends, folded and zip tied to harness buckle.
We used the them on a ride the next day and they felt good. The top harness did not ride up on your neck by using the tabs on the roll bar behind the seat.
Hopes this helps some rookies like me. Happy riding and remember what you pack in please pack out !
