I plan to sell my 2010 my Renegade 500 and buy a Grizzly 700 to get power steering and bigger fenders and I have several questions about buying strategy and also about Grizzly’s.

First the questions about shopping:

*What is the best time to buy? Should I wait until 2017’s are in stock or until Fall? Right now there are very few used Grizzly’s in California so I am considering buying a new one. I see some dealer sales listed on Craig’s list.

*Are Nada prices accurate or feasible? According to them a low price for a 2016 SE is $7100 and the average price is $9300. That is a big range. The pessimist in me says the low price is only available with $2000 additional in transportation and dealer prep fees.

*Is it usually better to buy skids and a winch aftermarket or as options when new?

*Should I get a base model and buy the wheels and better tires aftermarket?

*Any other advice or suggestions?

Here are some questions about Grizzly’s hardware etc.:

*How tippy are they compared to a 2010 Renegade 500? I don’t want to die. I weigh 170 lbs and am pretty good about standing on the inside footrest when necessary. Does EPS increase tipping risk dramatically? I’m a relative rooky and drive conservatively, partly because the fire roads in the Sierra Nevada’s, where I ride mostly, are mostly too rocky and lumpy for fast cornering.

*Is it easier to work on Grizzly’s than Renegades? All I would usually do is lube the zerks, clean the air filter, change the oil and replace the CVT belt in the field. Can-Ams have a reputation for being difficult to work on.

*I recall hearing Grizzly’s have weak belts. Is this just the original equipment belt or just the older models or is it a false rumor?

*What is up with the straight drive shaft? “Straight driveshaft layout eliminates U-joints for reduced friction, noise, vibration, and maintenance.” This sounds too good to be true. Are there any disadvantages? The hardest part of lubing the zerks on a Can-Am is getting to the zerks in the U joints.

*How tough is the paint on the SE and LE models compared to typical body plastic? Should I get an unpainted base model instead?

Thank you very much for any information!

Doug

I plan to sell my 2010 my Renegade 500 and buy a Grizzly 700 to get power steering and bigger fenders and I have several questions about buying strategy and also about Grizzly’s.

First the questions about shopping:

*What is the best time to buy? Should I wait until 2017’s are in stock or until Fall? Right now there are very few used Grizzly’s in California so I am considering buying a new one. I see some dealer sales listed on Craig’s list.

*Are Nada prices accurate or feasible? According to them a low price for a 2016 SE is $7100 and the average price is $9300. That is a big range. The pessimist in me says the low price is only available with $2000 additional in transportation and dealer prep fees.

*Is it usually better to buy skids and a winch aftermarket or as options when new?

*Should I get a base model and buy the wheels and better tires aftermarket?

*Any other advice or suggestions?

Here are some questions about Grizzly’s hardware etc.:

*How tippy are they compared to a 2010 Renegade 500? I don’t want to die. I weigh 170 lbs and am pretty good about standing on the inside footrest when necessary. Does EPS increase tipping risk dramatically? I’m a relative rooky and drive conservatively, partly because the fire roads in the Sierra Nevada’s, where I ride mostly, are mostly too rocky and lumpy for fast cornering.

*Is it easier to work on Grizzly’s than Renegades? All I would usually do is lube the zerks, clean the air filter, change the oil and replace the CVT belt in the field. Can-Ams have a reputation for being difficult to work on.

*I recall hearing Grizzly’s have weak belts. Is this just the original equipment belt or just the older models or is it a false rumor?

*What is up with the straight drive shaft? “Straight driveshaft layout eliminates U-joints for reduced friction, noise, vibration, and maintenance.” This sounds too good to be true. Are there any disadvantages? The hardest part of lubing the zerks on a Can-Am is getting to the zerks in the U joints.

*How tough is the paint on the SE and LE models compared to typical body plastic? Should I get an unpainted base model instead?

Thank you very much for any information!

Doug