Hi everyone. Long-time reader (since 2013), first time poster. I got a ’94 TRX 300FW from my brother for a good price ($0). It was running when he parked it under a shed 3 years ago though it smoked and had multiple fluid leaks. I’ve disassembled it, restored the frame (stripped/primer/paint and added a skid plate) and done the same for other parts (a-arms, etc.). Now I’m focusing on the engine as I begin to put it all back together and I have a few questions:
1. Cylinder wall is scored. I debated about whether to send it to G&H for machining, but ultimately took a chance on a matching cylinder jug/piston bought off Ebay for $65. I didn’t notice it when I bought it, but one of the bolts that holds the timing chain tensioner in place was broken off in the jug. In the process of trying to drill/extract the bolt the extractor broke off. I’ve managed to remove the broken parts but the hole is wallowed out a bit. First question: Do you guys think I can salvage this piston jug by cutting off the threaded part of a bolt, inserting it backwards into the hole with JB Weld, and using a nut to secure the one side?
2. The cam is within tolerances except for one journal (it’s off by 0.006). I’m going to buy a new cam, but I’m no expert on the heads for these things. The rockers don’t seem excessively worn on the contact surface and there’s no play when I try to move them laterally. I won’t know if the valve guides have excessive play until I buy a valve spring compressor and disassemble it (I’ll replace the seals then). My question is, if the cam shaft is worn to the lower limits of its tolerance, is it a good bet the rocker arms/shafts/valves need to be replaced?
3. Last question (for today at least): Two of the seals on the front differential have been leaking oil (drive shaft seal and one cv axle seal), but from inspection/sticking my finger in there to turn them, the cv bearings seem to be OK. The input shaft turns easily with no (or very little) slack and the fluid was clean when I drained it. I thought of disassembling the whole thing to inspect, but Clymer basically said, "Takes special tools- go to the dealer". Has anyone disassembled one of these and how big of a PITA is it to put it all back together?
Sorry this was so long. I can post pictures by next Tuesday or Wednesday if you guys would like. Thanks in advance.
Hi everyone. Long-time reader (since 2013), first time poster. I got a ’94 TRX 300FW from my brother for a good price ($0). It was running when he parked it under a shed 3 years ago though it smoked and had multiple fluid leaks. I’ve disassembled it, restored the frame (stripped/primer/paint and added a skid plate) and done the same for other parts (a-arms, etc.). Now I’m focusing on the engine as I begin to put it all back together and I have a few questions:
1. Cylinder wall is scored. I debated about whether to send it to G&H for machining, but ultimately took a chance on a matching cylinder jug/piston bought off Ebay for $65. I didn’t notice it when I bought it, but one of the bolts that holds the timing chain tensioner in place was broken off in the jug. In the process of trying to drill/extract the bolt the extractor broke off. I’ve managed to remove the broken parts but the hole is wallowed out a bit. First question: Do you guys think I can salvage this piston jug by cutting off the threaded part of a bolt, inserting it backwards into the hole with JB Weld, and using a nut to secure the one side?
2. The cam is within tolerances except for one journal (it’s off by 0.006). I’m going to buy a new cam, but I’m no expert on the heads for these things. The rockers don’t seem excessively worn on the contact surface and there’s no play when I try to move them laterally. I won’t know if the valve guides have excessive play until I buy a valve spring compressor and disassemble it (I’ll replace the seals then). My question is, if the cam shaft is worn to the lower limits of its tolerance, is it a good bet the rocker arms/shafts/valves need to be replaced?
3. Last question (for today at least): Two of the seals on the front differential have been leaking oil (drive shaft seal and one cv axle seal), but from inspection/sticking my finger in there to turn them, the cv bearings seem to be OK. The input shaft turns easily with no (or very little) slack and the fluid was clean when I drained it. I thought of disassembling the whole thing to inspect, but Clymer basically said, "Takes special tools- go to the dealer". Has anyone disassembled one of these and how big of a PITA is it to put it all back together?
Sorry this was so long. I can post pictures by next Tuesday or Wednesday if you guys would like. Thanks in advance.
