so after i finally got around to rebuilding the 450 i got about 10 hrs and started getting a coolant leak so i tore it back down to find out the gasket couldnt make he difference on the warped head anymore. wish i had noticed the warp before hand. any way now im looking for a head every where and cant find any decent ones at a decent price. so the next thought is shaving it to get it back in plain. i know its gonna up compression but is there any other issues. i havent seen anyone building this motor so wondering if it can handle it. also need to see if anyone knows a good place to order just the head gasket. having a hard time finding just the gasket or its pretty much the same price as the topend. im more of a snowmobile guy and really only planned on using this for house chores and hauling the ice ripper out on the lake

Hello everyone I have a 03 kodiak that sputters and backfires then died out when in full throttle. It will go full throttle about 4 to 5 seconds then sputter and die out ,just put a carb kit in it. Your help will be greatly appreciated

so my sisters boyfriend said he had a kodiak 400 that quit running about 5 years ago and he said every shop he took it to told he it was ruined and wasnt worth fixing and tried to get it for a couple hundred bucks, and he decided to just put it in storage. i asked him what he wanted for it and he said if i could get it running as long as i dont sell it and let him or my sister ride when they wanted to i could have it, so i jumped on the deal. the reason it quit working was just a bad starter other than cleaning the carb from sitting up and cleaning out the gas tank and lines and had up and running within a hour of getting it at my place

the bad:

• needs a new starter, current one will freeze up but pulling the pull start while pressing the ignition button will unfreeze it long enough for it to crank
• needs headlight bulb
• winch needs a few parts
• it was backed into the 18 wheeler trailer it was stored in and has a pretty good dent in the plastic, could i use a heat gun to heat it and push it back into place?
• winch line is starting to fray and i was wondering what would be a good synthetic replacement that doesnt cost too much

for the winch, its a warn a2000 that i think came from the factory with it on it, 1 of the motor bolts had came loose and got packed full of dirt and i finally got it all clean but i need a cam follower and i was wondering if the WARN 69632 Cam Follower will work on it? my local yamaha shop wants like $20 for a replacement plastic one and i dont want to get another plastic one that will break just like the one that was in it. the drum bushing for the winch spool on the motor side fell out along with the thrust washer and im just waiting to find out if the metal cam follower will work before i order it all at once. ive already cleaned out the motor side and hooked up 12v and the winch does work so thats a plus.

Re: New owner of a 1999 Yamaha 400 4×4, 5 speed manual with cannister style oil filter (not the screw on kind found on newer models).

I’ve checked the manual (useless), searched the web, and all I’ve found is a bunch of Honda videos that show the valve part (not the open end) goes towards the engine. However, on my Yamaha Kodiak there is a tab (like if you open a can of pop and leave the tap sticking up into the air) sticking out of the engine side that seems to prevent the valve side (closed side) of my BikeMaster metal cannister filter from fitting that way.

I’m totally confused and I know putting it in the wrong way will not be good. The previous owner had a paper filter in the quad and it was bent over in half so I don’t think it was installed correctly and was likely doing nothing (probably a good thing if it was in the wrong way).

HELP!!! heheheh….seriously, thanks for any advice you can give.

Am new to this forum stuff. I am in the process of rebuilding a 93 Kodiak from ground up. I picked it up a while ago knowing it had a couple issues. One being that the rear end would raise on take off. Discovered seized brake cylinders mainly on front right causing brakes to prevent front tire from turning easily. Have now acquired 2 parts quads, a complete 95 and a 99 bare frame that had the complete front end attached and boxes of parts. All 4 Cylinders work great and are not seized at all. Very happy about this as each cylinder from the Yamaha dealer here is $170. $106 from Partzilla.com where I did order a few parts from.The other issue with the 93 was a oil leak from the rear of the t-case. This case had been broken and welded but can now replace with the one from the 95. I am cleaning and painting every part in the rebuild. Flat Black and army green with flat grey for skid plates and a few other small parts. I will post pics later.

I do have a question that I have not been able to find an answer to on line, when I install the t-case from the 95, how do I adjust the play ( back-lash) in the gears. I have a bunch of shims to use but need some advise on how to do it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I look forward to using this site in reading the threads and seeing pics from others.

Take Care for now, Brian

2003 kodiak 4×4 plug is black. Cleaned carb but must need to adjust. How do I adjust to get carb correct and running smooth again?

I have a 95 kodiak 400. What is the highest lift can I get with the stock axles without them binding up?

Sent from my SM-T807R4 using Tapatalk

Is it 5.0 + 2.0 for the offset?

Thanks!

Is it 5.0 + 2.0 for the offset?

Thanks!

So far only had very limited rides. Can’t wait to see what it can really do once it’s broken it. As of now there are only 4 hours on it.

I have experience an issue with low speed maneuvering – it stalls. It will back fire through the intake and shut right off. It does start right back up and off I go for a bit and then it will happen again.
Any ideas – sparkplug? Running lean? Someone suggested having the dealer enter CO mode and turning the setting to 15 from 0. Any thoughts? Anyone else experiencing this?