Well I kept getting water in my headlights everytime we went down to the creek or river aND i got my hear lights below the water. I’d just go home and use the shop ac with a small piece of rubber line to sucking out the water, then hit the outside of the light with a blow dry till all the water beads and moisture were gone. Well I finally said to hell with this so I took it to the dealer and they set up an appointment for the headlight (2 weeks out and then it probably would sit there another week waiting for the new headlight to come in. So I got a hair up my a$$ and decided to take a moment and see if I could figure out how the water was getting in. I pulled the headlight bulb out and found out why water was getting into the housing. I also found out that the outer rubber seal is not a true seal it just covers the rear of the headlamp probably to keep debris out of the assembly. The inner rubber grouments is meant to keep water off the connector (not very well at that).
1. Remove both the outer and inner rubber boots.
2. Disconnected the headlamp plug (push in and turn counterclockwise).
3. Removed bulb from housing.
I then noticed that there is no seal between the bulb and the housing and there were 2 little dimples on the bulb that were preventing the bulb from sitting flush in the housing. (There is a point which only alows the bulb to sit in the housing in a certain direction). I then took my bulb and flattened the 2 dimples with my vise. I decided I wanted to go one step further and install a seal between the bulb and the housing. (I found that a garden hose washer fit perfect around the base of the bulb). You have to pry it over the bulb, but then it will fit perfect on the base of the bulb.(package of 10, $ 1.99 @ Lowes)
4. I then placed the bulb back into the headlight housing (it’s a little tight with the seal so I took a 3/4 inch deep well socket and placed it over the bulb and pushed it into the housing.
5. Reconnected the headlamp plug (push in and turn clockwise).
6. Replaced both the rubber seals.
After I completed this I took it down to the creek and submerged my headlights for 5 minutes straight and there wasn’t any water in my headlights.
:getrdone:
Can any one tell me the wheel width on the new Kodiaks? I know the overall width is 46.5", but is that the wheel width? I have a ramp that is 51" wide and want to know the actual wheel width. Thanks.
I have a 2003 Kodiak 400 with a solid rear axel. My rear shock is very soft and after an hour of riding it was fully compressed and botoming out. I am not sure my rear shock is origonal and need to replace it (the spring is red). Just curious if anyone has the measurements of the oem shock so i can see if i can find something used in my area. Thanks.
Here is my 2016 Yamaha Kodiak 700, I’ve put on front and rear luggage boxes, 12 in Auxbeam Led Light on front (installed sperate on/off switch with relay) and 6 in Auxbeam Led Light in the rear (tapped into the R on the instrument cluster to a relay to activate Reverse Light), 16 Gram weights (took out the 30 Gram weights) 2 inch Snorkel System (my design, custom made and sprayed with bedliner to insure tight glued seals). Custom exhaust tip (not to loud, not to quiet, just the right amount of sound and power), JBS future mods include slug kit on the wet clutch, 1 mm shim, purple spring on the secondary with plastic sliders, 2 in lift kit and 27 in tires (unsure of the brand and type yet), and 2500 pound winch with handlebar mounted controllers.
:getrdone:
Here is my 2016 Yamaha Kodiak 700, I’ve put on front and rear luggage boxes, 12 in Auxbeam Led Light on front (installed sperate on/off switch with relay) and 6 in Auxbeam Led Light in the rear (tapped into the R on the instrument cluster to a relay to activate Reverse Light), 16 Gram weights (took out the 30 Gram weights) 2 inch Snorkel System (my design, custom made and sprayed with bedliner to insure tight glued seals). Custom exhaust tip (not to loud, not to quiet, just the right amount of sound and power), JBS future mods include slug kit on the wet clutch, 1 mm shim, purple spring on the secondary with plastic sliders, 2 in lift kit and 27 in tires (unsure of the brand and type yet), and 2500 pound winch with handlebar mounted controllers.
:getrdone:
Here is my 2016 Yamaha Kodiak 700, I’ve put on front and rear luggage boxes, 12 in Auxbeam Led Light on front (installed sperate on/off switch with relay) and 6 in Auxbeam Led Light in the rear (tapped into the R on the instrument cluster to a relay to activate Reverse Light), 16 Gram weights (took out the 30 Gram weights) 2 inch Snorkel System (my design, custom made and sprayed with bedliner to insure tight glued seals). Custom exhaust tip (not to loud, not to quiet, just the right amount of sound and power), JBS future mods include slug kit on the wet clutch, 1 mm shim, purple spring on the secondary with plastic sliders, 2 in lift kit and 27 in tires (unsure of the brand and type yet), and 2500 pound winch with handlebar mounted controllers.
:getrdone:
Well I had ordered the R2 tip for my exhaust and I was not impressed. After installing I took it for a ride and I noticed that it seemed to have a bit more power, but on the down side it has alot of popping and back firing on decel. I then spoke with a guy that was on a Grizzly and he and I got to talking and he showed me how he had modified his exhaust. It was an earlier Grizzly (unsure of the year) as it only had 3 bolts on the exhaust tip that he had made. He stated that he did not have any issues with it and doesn’t run a fuel tuner. So I took the idea and ran with it. I removed my exhaust tip and measured the outside diameter which was about 4 inches. So with that I cut out a 4 inch circle out of a 1/8 inch piece of metal with a hole saw, then I started out by drilling the center out to 7/8inch which is the stock exhaust and then drilled the 4 mounting bolt holes 1/4 inch, then welded on a 4 inch long 7/8inch pipe with a slight down ward slope. Ran better then the stock exhaust, and no popping or back firing. So with that I set out to find out how big of a pipe I could run without getting any I’ll effects (i.e popping or back firing). I went through 1 inch, 1 1/8 inch, 1 1/4 inch, 1 1/2 inch all with no ill effects, but did notice better acceleration with each size up. Then I went to 1 3/4 inch and started to notice a bit of popping on deceleration. So with that I stayed with 1 1/2 inch exhaust pipe approximately 4 inches long with downward slope, but not just a 90 degree like stock. I also cut a piece of screening material as a spark arrestor and tested the exhaust with it in and out (screen material) and I didn’t notice a difference. I know that some places require the screen (spark arrestor) or you won’t be able to ride without it. Below are some pics of the exhaust as I designed it. Oh and it sounds great, not to quiet and not to loud, but just the right amount of power and sound. I will have it either powder coated or ceramic coated depending on how it starts to look. Total cost for mod, $15.00 (flat metal 4×8 inch and one 90 degree electric conduit pipe, both from Lowes)
:getrdone:
Hey there,
Can anyone recommend a good quality waterproof cover they are using on their ATV? I plan to keep mine garaged when possible, but there will be times it will be outside.
Thanks.
