Category Archives: Yamaha Kodiak

anyone have any kodiak full service manuals?

does anyone have a full service manual for a 2004 kodiak 400? i found a manual for a 2003 but on the 2004 they added park on the shift selector and mine has a rear disc brake instead of drum. ive managed to find a full service manual for a 2003 and i put it on my google drive, you can download it here, im not sure what years itll work with prior to 2003. any help would be appreciated.

anyone have any kodiak full service manuals?

does anyone have a full service manual for a 2004 kodiak 400? i found a manual for a 2003 but on the 2004 they added park on the shift selector and mine has a rear disc brake instead of drum. ive managed to find a full service manual for a 2003 and i put it on my google drive, you can download it here, im not sure what years itll work with prior to 2003. any help would be appreciated.

95 Kodiak 400 front diff issue

I recently replaced a front axle shaft and ran into an issue with the front differential. The issue is that the front left axle is binding, and I don’t know why. I’ll explain how this came about…it’s gonna be a bit long, but I want to explain everything that I did. So, grab a drink and a bag of chips, and enjoy the ride…

I noticed that the inboard CV boot was ripped, so I figured "Hey, I already replaced the right front axle without an issue, so why not just do the whole left axle, right?". I popped out the old axle without much trouble, but the new one wouldn’t go in all the way. I gave it a couple of love taps with a deadblow, but it still wouldn’t seat. So, I pulled the axle out and noticed that the snap ring had broken in half…and only half of it came out of the diff.

After trying to find it with a magnet for about 20 minutes, I pulled the diff out of the quad. I pulled the lunchbox out of the housing, and went to work. After a good half hour of fishing around with my magnet and a flashlight, I found the piece of snap ring stuck in between the splines and the clutch plate (at least I think it was the clutch plate…). I didn’t gouge anything up, and it didn’t look like any of the splines were damaged. I’m positive that I got the whole snap ring out. The break marks lined up perfect on both halves, and I measured the circumference against the new snap ring.

Work done while the diff was out:
New left front axle (with better snap ring after the first one broke).
New u-joint on diff-side of the front drive shaft.
Hub-side wheel bearings and seals.
Left side brake line, banjo, bleeder, and vent hose (necessary after I had a minor disagreement with my end wrench while trying to do the aforementioned wheel bearings).
New front brake shoes.

I put everything back together, axles in, fluid in, hubs back together, and now the left axle is binding. I thought it could possibly be the bearings on the diff side, but they are gliding nice and smooth. The wheel bearings on the hub side were just replaced, and they’re still smooth as well.

Just to be sure it wasn’t something with the hub, I pulled it off again and tried to spin the axle with just the brake drum on the end of the axle. Still binding, so definitely nothing to do with the hub or brakes. Right side doesn’t bind at all. A little thumping when I spin it, but according to several threads I’ve read, that’s quite normal.

I didn’t notice any alignment marks on the diff or drive shaft, either…which is odd to me, but hey, what do I know…

When I put everything back together.

So, for my new-found friends here at GC, I ask you these questions:

1. Is it possible that I misaligned something when I put the lunchbox back into the housing? Like I said, I didn’t see any alignment marks, so I just popped it back in and bolted her together. And yes, it’s facing the right direction. It only goes into the housing one way.

2. Could the plate(s) inside be causing this to bind on one side? I ask this, because my father (a retired diesel mechanic with too much free time and not enough hobby experience) thinks that the plate(s) inside were moved and need to open in order to slip the axle and/or plates back into alignment with everything…or something like that…Basically, he wants me to put it back together and run it through the woods for a mile or so to see if it’s still binding afterwards. My concern is that I’ll tear up the diff in the process if that isn’t the issue, causing me to buy either a crappy used one that I have to rebuild or a highly overpriced new one.

I thank you in advance for any responses I may get on this. I would really like to get my quad out of my garage and back on the trails!!

2003 Kodiak hesitation

Hi Everyone,

I have a 2003 Kodiak 450 that has a hesitation issue from 1/4 to 1/2 throttle. Past 1/2 the machine runs beautifully
If I add some choke or restrict some air flow into the carb, the machine runs fine in all positions

I, along with another mechanic have gone through carb, valve adjustment, spark, intake leaks.

What else could this issue be as I have exhausted all ideas?

Thanks!

Frank

2000 Grizzly 600 has no power on incline

I bought a 2000 Grizzly 600 with only 400 miles on it. When I took it out in the spring, it didn’t have enough power to get up a small incline. He mentioned he replaced a (crank?) seal that had leaked oil on the drive belt and it may have leaked again, possibly from sitting for a few months (I don’t know why it would leak again if a dealer just replaced it). I’m not that familiar with this machine, so I’m not sure what I may be in for. I thought the 600 would be a great machine but am a little hesitant now. I hope it’s an easy fix. Thanks for your help.

2004 Kodak 450 new timing chain issues

So I put in a new timing chain, got it together, started it up and it Ran good but high idle and the reverse light was blinking while it was in park. Also when turning it off something is still turning over, I’m think maybe the starter is stuck? Or could the shift lever be on wrong?