Last trip out I lost a belt at 150 miles. It was a total disintegration and I didnt find any belt parts bigger than 1".
Replaced with a second belt, after cleaning up the mess.
While duning and pulling a long hill, I noticed it slipping pretty bad, so I headed strait back to camp. I pulled the belt, and it looked very shiny, and I noticed that the belt was squealing like crazy.
I cleaned it out again and replaced the belt with my 3rd belt at 300 miles. The squealing continued, but now, it would randomly lurch forward slightly when in gear.
Called the dealer, and he told me the one way bearing is toast and the are going to replace my primary clutch under warranty.
FYI. Other than the lurching and squealing, it drove OK. I just threw it in neutral whenever i would stop.
I’m sure I’ve overlooked this somewhere but… Has anyone installed a winch yet??? Does the xp1k plate fit or do I need another?? Thanks for the help!!!!
Just got back from Glamis. Had a great time, but managed to snap off one of my tie rods. I hit a witches eye at about 5 MPH, and it just popped the end off! Didnt even jolt me! Snapped right above the lock nut. Luckily, we have 2 XPT’s so we just ran back to camp and pulled the part of our other one.
I am not sure how common this problem is, but i figure i will change them for stronger aftermarket parts just to be sure.
So has anyone heard anything about aftermarket clutches coming for the Turbo? After switching to 30" Tensors and living at 5,000 feet, I feel I could benefit from a clutch change.
Today’s UTVs are a different breed with "Throttle-by-Wire" now commonplace, along with major manufacturers offering OEM turbochargers. Many of these newer models are capable of so much more than what the manufacturer puts in the showroom. Things like shaft savers and torque limiters can take the fun out of driving these newer rigs. The HMF ECU Flash service takes full advantage of what your machine has to offer.
The HMF ECU Flash will change the following parameters where applicable:
– Fueling Adjusted for HMF exhaust sytems. Will work with other aftermarket exhaust systems.
– Optimized spark timing for 93 Octane pump fuel.
– Shaft saver function modification.
– Torque limiters modification.
– Speed Limiters Extended: High and Low Gears.
– Rev Limiters Extended: High and Low Gears.
– Optimized Cooling Fan On Temperature.
– Increased boost levels for turbocharged vehicles.
– Linear throttle control for throttle by wire models.
Polaris RZR XP Turbo Tune:
– Minimum 93 Octane fuel required
– Boost: 14-15 PSI
– Fans: ON at 185 Degrees
– Rev Limit: 9000 RPMS
– Speed Limit H: 95 MPH
– Speed Limit L: 50 MPH
– Linear throttle control
– Torque limiting function reduced
– 25 wheel HP gain as tested with HMF dual slip on exhaust
I just bought my 2016 XP Turbo, at the dealership I decided to have them add roof with all the bells and whistles while i was there. I can’t remember the name but Im sure most of you ill know the roof Im talking about.
Its fiber glass coated with rhino liner. It had three lights bars, 12 woofer, 4 6×9’s, cd player lights lights lights…. I could tell this was going to make this guy top heavy but it was cool and RTR so i went with it.
I ride 99% tight trails. My 2014 800s would handle them like a f’in rocket ship. i could come into a 90 degree burm full speed for the trail (40ish mph) turn the wheel full and floor it and it would grab and go..
For the new machine, not so much… I feel like this machine has a crazy amount of body roll..
long story short, I came in realllllll hot… somehow i ended up on my side sliding for 40 feet and the roof was ripped clear off and found it in the trees.
7k in damage later I pick it up this upcoming Wednesday.
Now for the questions.
Suspension settings, what are most trail riders using to stay flat in the turns? Id like to elimnate as much roll as possible. I WILL NOT BE PUTTING another roof like that on.
The wheel base is the same as the 800s but the turbo is much higher and the body is larger… it just doesn’t hook like the 800 did.
Any feedback on setting this guy up right would be much appreciated.
I figured maybe lowering it some and then what?? I don’t know enough about suspension settings to know if i need stiff or soft for what I am trying to do.
The other night I was showing off the new machine to a buddy of mine and I went to go dim the headlights but instead accidentally hit the 4wd button, which got me thinking…..hmm I’m pretty sure the computer won’t allow it to engage unless the car is in park or neutral right?? (By the way when you’ve got riding gloves a helmet and its dark it sure is mighty easy to accidentally flip this switch!)
I went to go look in the manual to find the torque specs on the primary and secondary clutch bolts and could not find it? Does any body know what these are supposed to be torqued to? Thanks in advance! 🙂
My XPT takes considerably more steering effort than my XP1K did. Is that what you guys have experienced? Wasn’t an issue on trails. I remember reading they made changes. Its to slow for drifting, ice racing. I get ahead of PS. Does anyone know if that can be changed with what I have? EPS current change or something short of swapping to 1K stuff. I wanted to put a quickener on it, but its already to hard to turn fast.
