I am looking at a used 2014 xp 900 and can not find the VIN#. The sticker is missing off the right front down rail and I can not find any number stamped in the left rear area. Can anyone look at their 2014 and let me know where they find the stamped number? I have a 2011 in my shop and it is on lower left frame rail behind lower shock mount. Owners manual say 2014 is on left rear down tube in front of rear tire. I can not find any number on this 2014. Please help.:sad:

I took the rear axle to replace the inner boot, and took off the cv bearings so fast that I didn’t pay attention to which direction the inner & outer race cage face?
Any thoughts?

2014 xp900 I purchased spring of 2014 rode stock for one season then I took it to a friend at RDN fab. We set off to build a desert rzr for the very limited events in Texas, still unsure what class I’ll be racing.

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So I installed some Super ATV trailing arms a few weeks back and Super ATV high clearance radius rods. After getting everything bolted up and setting back down on the ground the rear tires were dramatically toed in. The center line of the driver side tire lines up with bottom of the door and the passenger tire was even worse. I’ve searched high and low for any rear toe specs and have come across squat. I decided to drive down the block just to test the feel and drove across a snow packed section of road only doing about 15 mph and it spun the vehicle around instantly. I had a trail ride planed the next day so I built a quick temporary shim for the passenger side to at least get the toe in even. With the shim installed the toe in on the rear tires in still over 1.5"! Before the shim I’ll bet it was 3". Has anyone encountered this same problem with their after market trailing arms?

Destroyed a belty on my 2013 900 XP. Put a new one on and rode it for a day or so, then the new belt started overheating and slipping. I did some reading and found something about a "debris basket" where belt material might end up and restrict air flow to the CVTs and belt.

Some help where I might find this lovely little depository of waste would be appreciated.

DO NOT order from fixmytoys.com ordered OEM power steering kit they had listed in their eBay store on Monday. Found out they they didn’t have any of the kits in stock and would have to order from Polaris (contrary to their eBay listing). Then got this email this evening….

Thank you for the order you recently placed from our store. We have been notified by our supplier that the item we have been waiting on to fill your order has been discontinued resulting in all pending orders being canceled. Due to this recent development I regret to inform you that we will not be able to fill your order. I will be immediately issuing a full refund for the item purchased and canceling the transaction.

I sincerely apologize for any inconvenience this has caused.

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How does the feel of the super ATV power steering kit compare to the OEM Kit?

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What do you guys recommend as far as Fuse Panels/relay setups to run lights and other accessories?

I’m going to be installing 2 Odyssey Batteries and a True Am Inc. Dual Battery and Monitor Kit, a 12" LED light bar, a 30" LED light bar and 2 lighted whips.

I’m sure this topic has been covered before, I have searched and got overwhelmed trying to decide what the best, safest setup to go with is.

Any suggestions/photos would be greatly appreciated and thank you in advance for your responses to this thread.

I have my wife’s 2012 RZR XP4 900 that has recently started using oil. I first noticed it about 4 rides ago that when I decelerate it will smoke blue (OIL) usually in an automotive situation this would be contributed to bad valve guides/seals. I’m thinking that this will still be the issue with this type of cylinder head. It used 1/2 Qt of oil on this last dune trip in about 50 miles of duning which was almost 70% WOT. but with lots of on/off 100% throttle.

Second issue which has come on slowly over the last 6 or 7 rides was hard start cold issue. Started out taking a few cranks to fire and stall until eventually idling by itself without adding any throttle input to steadily getting tougher to start without adding throttle to what we have now is almost not starting at all without holding WOT and cranking 10-20 times. I used to be able to play with the peddle 1/4 to half and she would light up but now it wont start anything less than WOT.
It sounds and cranks like it has no compression when dead cold so I pulled the filter off and had a buddy crank it while I watched and listened to the intake. It was spitting gas back out the intake towards the air filter cold.

My automotive experience is telling me that the guides and seals are wasted and need to be serviced for the oil consumption, And the valve lash is now too tight as the valves have sank in the seats enough to loose the gap needed to have a seal at dead cold and that’s why It cranks like its low on compression and spits gas back out the intake cold.

I know that there is a similar thread by another guy here in AZ but his has a knock mixed in the works and I didn’t want to hijack his thread. Thanks for understanding.
I would also like any recommendations on a cam choice at this point since the head will be off or am I going to spend $ on something that just isn’t going to gain any performance? Do you guys think I’m on the right track with what’s wrong with Pinky?

Hey Guys,

Although I haven’t measured my center to center clutch alignment for the 10.5" (waiting on a guy that is gonna swing over to check it) I’m wanting to see what is involved to adjust it. With the long history of clutch tuning issues I have had combined with my buggy feels like I’m taking off in second gear I think I’m going to need to adjust or make some repairs. Seems to me I seen some repair kits for the engine to trans mount bushings. Everything appears tight but what should I look for? Does the trans have to come out? I’m sure this has been covered on here before.
Thanks