What is this rubber plug/connection dangling beside Fuse box? Whats it for?

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So I posted this in the RZR Porn section on facebook, so some might have seen this already.. I have been having troubles with my 900 not going over 60 mph. No don’t usually ride that fast, but when its supposed to perform over 60 and it’s not it bothers me. So I looked into it with some help from RZR Porn, I found that my "spider Nut" is loose on the Primary clutch shaft.

So my question does anyone here have a video or info on how I go about tightening it correctly? I believe I will need the clutch puller from Polaris and possibly the spider nut tool from SLP.

So to get to the spider nut I should remove the Primary clutch from machine. then I guess that’s where I’m not sure how to get to or tighten that spider nut. I did run a ride or two with it loose but only tried hitting over 60 once or twice. Could I have damaged something in the primary clutching? I have warranty which I would hope covers this if I need to replace the primary, but I have a weekend ride coming up so I know warranty doesn’t move too quick, so I am going to do it myself. Also, I seen in the manual something about a limiter spacer, could that come out or just leave it in there?

here is a picture of the spider nut on the shaft… What is that thin washer/spacer in the front of the spider nut? should that be there?

Also on another note, Rear carrier bearings that are in the hub of the machine. when I jacked my rzr up I notice a lot of play in my rear passenger wheel. I believe it is a wheel bearing. can I change this out without a press?

So I posted this in the RZR Porn section on facebook, so some might have seen this already.. I have been having troubles with my 900 not going over 60 mph. No don’t usually ride that fast, but when its supposed to perform over 60 and it’s not it bothers me. So I looked into it with some help from RZR Porn, I found that my "spider Nut" is loose on the Primary clutch shaft.

So my question does anyone here have a video or info on how I go about tightening it correctly? I believe I will need the clutch puller from Polaris and possibly the spider nut tool from SLP.

So to get to the spider nut I should remove the Primary clutch from machine. then I guess that’s where I’m not sure how to get to or tighten that spider nut. I did run a ride or two with it loose but only tried hitting over 60 once or twice. Could I have damaged something in the primary clutching? I have warranty which I would hope covers this if I need to replace the primary, but I have a weekend ride coming up so I know warranty doesn’t move too quick, so I am going to do it myself. Also, I seen in the manual something about a limiter spacer, could that come out or just leave it in there?

here is a picture of the spider nut on the shaft… What is that thin washer/spacer in the front of the spider nut? should that be there?

Also on another note, Rear carrier bearings that are in the hub of the machine. when I jacked my rzr up I notice a lot of play in my rear passenger wheel. I believe it is a wheel bearing. can I change this out without a press?

OK, here is the run down, 2011 900xp with it’s 2nd motor in. I bought a new engine from Polaris and installed with new oil tank. with less than 5 hrs on the engine it started smoking and progressively got worse. With my engine experience I was thinking rings. I cussed Polaris pretty good on this one since I had low hrs and no harsh driving.

Fast forward a month or so of being parked I took the rzr to my property and was doing some work driving fence line and couldn’t keep it running. little backfiring, lots of smoke and me fuming mad. So last week I got all my parts in to drop new pistons and cylinder in which I had from a previous motor with 5 minutes on it until the starter gear cut loose and cracked my case.
Get the engine out and start pulling it apart and notice all my oil in the crank case vs the oil tank. I didn’t think much of it since the rzr has been sitting for a month or better. get to the pistons and everything looks great. I went ahead and swapped the parts, put it back together and fill with fluids.
Rzr will not start now, code 105, with 3 under it. Great fuel rail needs to be replaced. So now I am researching my smoking issue and I run across a term in the manual about wet sumping causing smoking.

How does the dry sump work, is there a check valve somewhere, and is it going to be an oil pump or tank issue causing wetsumping?

By the way, my first engine was beat on like a govt mule is the 2nd reason I went with a brand new motor. I am man enough to admit I beat my first engine up. 2nd engine was coddled like a little baby. I have way to much money in this POS.

Thanks for any help you guys can give me.

OK, here is the run down, 2011 900xp with it’s 2nd motor in. I bought a new engine from Polaris and installed with new oil tank. with less than 5 hrs on the engine it started smoking and progressively got worse. With my engine experience I was thinking rings. I cussed Polaris pretty good on this one since I had low hrs and no harsh driving.

Fast forward a month or so of being parked I took the rzr to my property and was doing some work driving fence line and couldn’t keep it running. little backfiring, lots of smoke and me fuming mad. So last week I got all my parts in to drop new pistons and cylinder in which I had from a previous motor with 5 minutes on it until the starter gear cut loose and cracked my case.
Get the engine out and start pulling it apart and notice all my oil in the crank case vs the oil tank. I didn’t think much of it since the rzr has been sitting for a month or better. get to the pistons and everything looks great. I went ahead and swapped the parts, put it back together and fill with fluids.
Rzr will not start now, code 105, with 3 under it. Great fuel rail needs to be replaced. So now I am researching my smoking issue and I run across a term in the manual about wet sumping causing smoking.

How does the dry sump work, is there a check valve somewhere, and is it going to be an oil pump or tank issue causing wetsumping?

By the way, my first engine was beat on like a govt mule is the 2nd reason I went with a brand new motor. I am man enough to admit I beat my first engine up. 2nd engine was coddled like a little baby. I have way to much money in this POS.

Thanks for any help you guys can give me.

Lookin to put 800s front fenders on my 14 stealth 900xp. Does anyone know the year or part #s i need? And who all out there has modified the rear fenders for a sleeker cleaner look?
Thanks

Little problem checkin to see if anyone knows how to fix or if im on the right path. Was in WV this past weekend all of a sudden noticed temp was up to 215 and fan was not coming on so back to camp we went I checked circuit breaker it was fine straight wired the fan it came on so Im thinkin its the that thermo sensor in the radiator any way to chk it? Then was havin problem with P/S and chk Eng lite comin on. I would stop cut off and restart it would be fine a while then do it again. i finally diconnected the battery to "reset" everything and that seemed to stop the the P/S and eng lite problem. Then I started having a problem when cranking it would just "zoo" over and not fire up, but cut off switch and it would start this would be random. Im getting no codes and I checked that voltage reg was not over/under charging its right at 14.2+/-. Never had a problem out of this ride before and I keep it maintained top to bottom and do a lot of reading and keeping up on this forum. Any help would be appreciated

so here is my setup i have a dg cage, 30x10x14 rocktanes, 1k seats, MSA beadlocks, fuel customs intake, homemade front mount winch bumper
and alba stage 2 kit with adjustable clutch weight kit

i am only hitting 7500rpm and climbs to around 7650 but ran out of road

i have put the weights where nate suggested and used the primary and secondary spring he sent me.

my question is what is everyone else running for their weights? or should i just get a heelclicker clutch kit?

My buddy swapped his 900 over to a 1000 motor and now we can’t get it to run cool. It just steadily climbs 220-230 and then we shut it down before any damage was done. We bought an upgraded 1000 radiator and installed it but still no change. Any help here? We have to be missing something obvious !

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my 2013 rzr XP900 now has 2200miles /220 hrs on motor. I was just wondering how inportent is it that i need to have valve clearance checked? the owners manual says 2000miles/200hrs….my rzr starts easy cold or hot and runs great. The one that is getting more noticeable is my hydraulic chain tensioner rattles more now at start up . i just change my oil with polaris 10w50 for summer time riding see if that help with start up rattle .