I have a rzr 900 which I recently installed superatv high clearance arms and a new ADR front axle. Went riding after the install and now my rzr is stuck in 4wd. Anyone had any problems similar to this? Thanks

Hey, my 2013 900 xp has started stalling when I go from wide open throttle to rapid deceleration. The engine sounds good and runs great except for this issue. Any ideas on what could be causing this? :scared2:

I have a new set of ball joints and pinch pins and the ball joints still slip past the pins with the tightened as much as possible, any ideas, the only thing I can think of is the spindle is wallered out.

I recently made a couple trips south of the border with my 2011 XP900. I have stock wheels/tires. Can anyone give me some info on beadlock wheel/tire combo that work well? There’s a lot of options out there but seems geared for the XP1’s. My old 900 has 12" wheels so not sure about upgrades to 14".

Mind you I’m not racing just using the RZR as a chase vehicle.

Any advice would be apreciated.

New to the RZR. Just purchased a 2013 900 x 4 that had the Polaris Stage 2 kit installed at the dealer, and an SLP duel exhaust, I talked to the mechanic and got the skinny so I know its true.
So, top speed is 70 to 73 on a flat dirt road or field. Verified with GPS. Rev limiter activates. The clutch seems to show full wear pattern.

Question is, can I get more, or should I see better MPH out of stock sheave dia? Power is there.

I have a friend with the same model, 2012, Claiming close to 90 mph. Another with the jagged X 2013 claiming in the 80’S

Just interested in some schooling in this area.Attachment 146928

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It seems that I’ve be reading a lot about flattened clutch rollers. It doesn’t seem to make a difference whether the clutch is stock or not. I know that the snowmobile guys can get harder lower friction rollers rollers for their machines. Are these available for the RZR’s? If not it would seem that one of the vendors could come up with some.

Pair of XP 900 Seats for sale. Excellent condition. $100 or OBO for the pair.
Buyer to pay shipping.

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Pair of XP 900 Seats for sale. Excellent condition. $100 or OBO for the pair.
Buyer to pay shipping.

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I recently discovered lots of moisture build-up inside one of my RZR 900xp headlights. The moisture completely covered the inside of the lens and had a small amount pooled at the bottom (maybe a half teaspoon). I suspect that water leaked inside the housing when I recently pressure washed my RZR.

After reading various threads on this forum on how to disassemble and upgrade your RZR headlights (add extra LED lights), I decided to disassemble my headlight, re-seal it with fresh silicone and reassemble.

Here is how I did it.
First, I removed the headlight and cleaned it. I also removed the 2 screws on the back side of the metal housing. Then I placed the headlight in my oven (I don’t own a heat gun) at 170 degrees (the lowest setting on my oven) for 20 minutes. Wearing mechanic’s gloves, I carefully removed the headlight from the oven and placed it on some cardboard. Using a utility knife, I carefully traced the edges of the plastic headlight lens over and over. This slowly, but surely removed the silicone. After 10 minutes or so, the headlight cooled down, so I put it back in the over for another 20 minutes. Then I removed it and continued running the utility knife around the edges of the lens to remove more silicone material. Then I used a small flathead screwdriver to gently pry up against the edge of the lens…going around the lens as I did this to try to gently maneuver the lens away from the metal housing. Eventually, the lens broke free and I was able to pry back the 2 tabs on the plastic lens and remove the lens.

From that point, it was just a simple task of cleaning up the old silicone in the channel around the edges of the metal housing and wiping down the lens. I bought some black RTV silicone (which is heat resistant up to 500 degrees). I could have bought some red RTV which is rated for higher temps, but I didn’t want to use a red colored RTV as that may look ugly around the outside of the headlights. I wish I could have found some high temp CLEAR silicone, but my local store didn’t have any. That is why I chose the black RTV silicone. Hopefully, the black RTV will seal up good (haven’t tested it yet).

After I carefully wiped down the inside of the headlight housing and the black motherboard, I applied some black RTV to the 2 holes (inside and outside) where the screws are mounted on the back side. Then I inserted the 2 screws. Next, I applied black RTV to the channel around the edge of the metal housing and carefully re-installed the clean lens (making sure both tabs on the lens are installed all the way). Once it dried (in an hour), I remounted the headlight to the RZR. I hope to test it out this weekend at an upcoming XC race (which might be muddy). Hopefully, this repair holds up.

PICS:

FINISHED PRODUCT:

I hope this thread helps others thinking about doing the same repair.

I revalved my shocks last month, during the heat of mid summer. It cooled off enough to ride yesterday, so she wife and I took it for a 40 mile spin. When we returned I noticed some moisture on one of the rear filler valves. I did not install Schrader valves at the time of the rebuild. Instead I bought the needle adaptor to recharge the shocks. That was a mistake, both rear shocks did not seal as they are designed. One had 65# and the other had 133#.

I picked up some Schrader valves from Napa. Bled the shocks and pulled the caps. I had to rethread the Schrader to match thread pitch tap I had, then tapped the cap and pipe taped the Sh!t out of it! :). Viola! Back in business…

Just an FYI for people who are thinking of rebuilding their shocks. It may be beneficial to take a little time to upgrade to the Schrader.