New problem developed with my 2014 XP900. When the engine is cold, and I turn the key to start the engine, It will turn right over and run like it should… However, as soon as i let go of the key from the ‘starter’ position the engine dies.
If i continue to hold the key in the ‘start’ position the engine will keep running.
I have to repeat this process for 30-45 seconds or so before the engine will keep running on its own after letting go of the key.
Once the engine is warm, like stopping to rest in a the middle of a trail. It fires back up no problem. Seems to happen the most after sitting for a little while.
Any ideas what to check? I’ve put the battery on a charger making sure it was 100% but no resolve.
I have a 2012 RZR XP 900 with out EPS,I would like to get some input from people who tried Wild boar ESP ? EZ-STEERING ESP ? One is $500 other is $600 any difference ?
Hello everyone new to the rzr world. I just picked up a 13 xp 900 with only 158 hours on it and after my real first ride out and only a few miles down the trail I start smoking out my friend behind me. Long story short the Pistons and rings wore threw the plating of the cylinders. After bitching at the guy that I just had bought it from and to tell him the regulator was also shot and front diff was blown he said he would send me a cylinder works big bore that he decided to not install and sell on eBay. I have looked into them a little and they don’t seem to be the most reliable upgrade without doing a set of HD rods. Would I be able to get a set of offset rods like other higher end big bores use. I am trying to get this all together and reliable without having to lower my max rpm like cylinder works recommends without rods and as little cost as I can since I just spend more then enough on a blowen up 900. Thanks for the help and advice.
Hello everyone new to the rzr world. I just picked up a 13 xp 900 with only 158 hours on it and after my real first ride out and only a few miles down the trail I start smoking out my friend behind me. Long story short the Pistons and rings wore threw the plating of the cylinders. After bitching at the guy that I just had bought it from and to tell him the regulator was also shot and front diff was blown he said he would send me a cylinder works big bore that he decided to not install and sell on eBay. I have looked into them a little and they don’t seem to be the most reliable upgrade without doing a set of HD rods. Would I be able to get a set of offset rods like other higher end big bores use. I am trying to get this all together and reliable without having to lower my max rpm like cylinder works recommends without rods and as little cost as I can since I just spend more then enough on a blowen up 900. Thanks for the help and advice.
Does anybody know if it’s possible to buy just the plug for the speedo cluster?
The plastic one way clips that hold the pins in have broke and the pins keep falling out, then the speedometer cuts out.
Any help would be appreciated, I really don’t think you should have to buy an entire new wiring harness when just one of the plugs breaks.
Hey guys got a question. My RZR has the Stage 2 Polaris kit in it along with an SLP clutch kit and I can’t beat my buddies bone stock 900 XP. He beats me every time by a length and a half. No idea why. I’m running the clutch set up recommended by SLP and he gets the jump on me every time. Is it possible the clutching is that far off? Or do I have something else going on? Could the throttle cable need adjusting?
-hey guys so i was replacing all 4 ball joints and discovered that my upper driver side holes where the A-Arms mount the brackets have egged out and causing alot of movement. also discovered that someone previous owner wise had installed the upped A-arm bracket to repair the torn out mount. so my question is what is the best repair option for me a bolt on gusset kit(BadAss,UTV, Dragon Fire) or a full weld in kit (HCR, UTV, Dragon Fire). also will be repacing sleeves with superdaves. ive also heard of welding a washer in place not sure if thats really a permanent fix. thanks :popcorn:
also does anyone have a link by chance and sizes of the upper control are mount bolt mine is a little short and nuts had came lose. thanks again.
I have been searching for information on removing complete water pump assembly very hard to replace seal with pump still in motor I took all bolts out 6 bolts and tried to pry pump out of block and it wouldn’t come out is there something in side motor holding in place wouldn’t think it would pull out that hard or do I need to drive wedges in on both sides of pump until comes loose don’t want to break the pump
I’m looking at either a fuel customs/sparks racing lid with in bed filter or the bmp intake to save a little bed space any suggestions either way? Going on my mostly stock 12′ xp 900 I ordered jagged x cams last night and already have a bmp slip on looking to add a dobeck gen4 afr also developed a slight hesitation dead spot right off idle after the slip on. Thanks for any input!
