I have a 2012 XP900 and I really don’t use the bed at all. What are your thoughts on the looks and fictionally? It makes it a lot easier to work on and not having a bed should fix the heat issue coming up behind the seats and on top of it all I saved 30Lbs! I have a cooler mount on the cage and I have a rotopax 3 gallon mounted behind the drivers side away from the exhaust and about 8" up from the highest point on the engine.

Gents, I’m at whits end. I’ve been a tech for over 25 years in automotive and heavy equipment that can figure out just about anything- but the CVT clutching stuff was new to me and has just kicked my ass.

My set up is I have a 2011 XP900 with just about 4000 miles now. A little over a year ago I took my perfect running no belt burning ride and installed the Alba Stage 2 kit with bigger cams, rooster clutch weights, Dobeck Gen4 with the o2 sensor, modified intake and the SLP muffler. I installed the cams myself and and verified I had good compression.

Since I installed the stage 2 kit I have blown probably a dozen belts both OEM and Gates Carbon. I usually blow the top off the belts if that means anything to ya. I weighted the primary the way Alba said to about 20 times but kept blowing belts when I got over about 60mph. Nate from Alba figured with the miles I had and the issues I must a new clutch or clutches although the rollers, bushings and such looked fine from what I could tell. I had install a new primary and at that and at the same time I had them install the SLP clutch kit with the Gold Black #40-400 primary spring, Green/Silver #40-421 secondary spring and 54 degree Straight Cut Helix which was supposed to give more belt grip, smoother shifting ect… My secondary was also disassembled, cleaned. We installed new rollers although the stock ones still looked ok. SLP recommended the rooster weights be adjusted from the outside in vs. Alba recommended inside out. SLP says outside in because of their straight cut helix. Either way I add weight I could just never make it right.

After all the new parts and time moving weights around not much has changed; I still blow belts and it feels like I’m taking off in second gear. Once I get to 10mph or so it goes pretty good. .

I recently discovered the only way I can keep it from smoking belts so often is to overweight the clutch. I currently have 71.5 grams in it but Alba says I should never need more than 65. Almost all the weight is in the heel and center holes.I hit the rev limiter from a dead stop with way more weight in the heel that I should need, Seems as if it’s always slipping. Top end RPM is 8350 which is good

I should add to this is that after looking at the clutch breakdown I realized my dealer messed up back when they assembled my new clutch and left out the spacers that go on either side of the roller bearing- which actually grooved into the fixed sheave a little bit. They also left out the white plastic limiter spacer. I have since installed but that didn’t take care of the issue either.

I now notice my primary sheaves have some noticeable wear (probably from the 9000 hole shots I’ve done trying to weight the clutch) so I fear yet another primary may be in my near future. I’m wondering where I should go with the rest of this stuff like springs, weights and helix. I have a lot of money in all that and hate to scrap it but wonder if that’s not part of the problem. I don’t have unlimited funds but in hind-site I suppose I should have bought two brand new clutches completely built up when I did the stage two but who woulda thought I needed all that, I had only used 2 belts in the first 3500 miles.

Sorry this is so lengthy but I wanted to document all the facts and list the parts I have in it for reference. I’ve nursed it along for the year but I just cant stand it any longer!!!

If you made it this far thanks for reading…Any suggestions?

Thanks
Dan

Gents, I’m at whits end. I’ve been a tech for over 25 years in automotive and heavy equipment that can figure out just about anything- but the CVT clutching stuff was new to me and has just kicked my ass.

My set up is I have a 2011 XP900 with just about 4000 miles now. A little over a year ago I took my perfect running no belt burning ride and installed the Alba Stage 2 kit with bigger cams, rooster clutch weights, Dobeck Gen4 with the o2 sensor, modified intake and the SLP muffler. I installed the cams myself and and verified I had good compression.

Since I installed the stage 2 kit I have blown probably a dozen belts both OEM and Gates Carbon. I usually blow the top off the belts if that means anything to ya. I weighted the primary the way Alba said to about 20 times but kept blowing belts when I got over about 60mph. Nate from Alba figured with the miles I had and the issues I must a new clutch or clutches although the rollers, bushings and such looked fine from what I could tell. I had install a new primary and at that and at the same time I had them install the SLP clutch kit with the Gold Black #40-400 primary spring, Green/Silver #40-421 secondary spring and 54 degree Straight Cut Helix which was supposed to give more belt grip, smoother shifting ect… My secondary was also disassembled, cleaned. We installed new rollers although the stock ones still looked ok. SLP recommended the rooster weights be adjusted from the outside in vs. Alba recommended inside out. SLP says outside in because of their straight cut helix. Either way I add weight I could just never make it right.

After all the new parts and time moving weights around not much has changed; I still blow belts and it feels like I’m taking off in second gear. Once I get to 10mph or so it goes pretty good. .

I recently discovered the only way I can keep it from smoking belts so often is to overweight the clutch. I currently have 71.5 grams in it but Alba says I should never need more than 65. Almost all the weight is in the heel and center holes.I hit the rev limiter from a dead stop with way more weight in the heel that I should need, Seems as if it’s always slipping. Top end RPM is 8350 which is good

I should add to this is that after looking at the clutch breakdown I realized my dealer messed up back when they assembled my new clutch and left out the spacers that go on either side of the roller bearing- which actually grooved into the fixed sheave a little bit. They also left out the white plastic limiter spacer. I have since installed but that didn’t take care of the issue either.

I now notice my primary sheaves have some noticeable wear (probably from the 9000 hole shots I’ve done trying to weight the clutch) so I fear yet another primary may be in my near future. I’m wondering where I should go with the rest of this stuff like springs, weights and helix. I have a lot of money in all that and hate to scrap it but wonder if that’s not part of the problem. I don’t have unlimited funds but in hind-site I suppose I should have bought two brand new clutches completely built up when I did the stage two but who woulda thought I needed all that, I had only used 2 belts in the first 3500 miles.

Sorry this is so lengthy but I wanted to document all the facts and list the parts I have in it for reference. I’ve nursed it along for the year but I just cant stand it any longer!!!

If you made it this far thanks for reading…Any suggestions?

Thanks
Dan

So I have gotten used to the power of my 2011 xp900 with the alba stage 2 kit.
I’m looking for more reliable power. should I do a BBK, turbo kit, 1k swap, 900 Stroker kit? or Just be happy with the power I have and keep my money.?

Everything else is setup on my rzr.

currently have alba stg. 2 kit
SLP slip on
Fuel controller
Clutch set up for stg. 2 kit.
timing chain tensioner
alba’s Intake manifold with UMP airfilter setup

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I managed to rip a control arm tab off my XP900. I searched for weeks looking for an easy solution. The easiest solution I found was to order the HCR gusset kit and make the gussets into tabs.

Well after much research and calling around I was able to find some new tabs ready to weld on.

I have not tried to install these yet. Working out the details and availability. Still need to verify fitment.

Attachment 152769

Attachment 152777

Attachment 152785

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I managed to rip a control arm tab off my XP900. I searched for weeks looking for an easy solution. The easiest solution I found was to order the HCR gusset kit and make the gussets into tabs.

Well after much research and calling around I was able to find some new tabs ready to weld on.

I have not tried to install these yet. Working out the details and availability. Still need to verify fitment.

Attachment 152769

Attachment 152777

Attachment 152785

Attached Thumbnails

 

 

 

Great week running the semi hardpack at Ocotillo this Thanksgiving week…til…I began burning a quart of oil a day (ran an avearage of 50 miles a day) and then we destroyed a belt. No biggie…keep adding oil…changed belt…..then the new belt began spinning and overheating after about 100 miles. I am hoping it is just valve guides and something cheap (is there anything cheap on these) in the clutches or as my wife has hinted…our season might be over early:rm_thumbdown:. Maybe offshore fishing wasnt so expensive after all.

Ha…..will be back out there for Christmas/New Years week who am I kidding. Does anyone know of any financial intitutions that make loans on repairs?

Ghoast…

I recently bought a used xp 900. I went to take it for a drive today and the shift knob pulled right off. I opened the plastic top and there is no screw holding it in place. Does anyone know what size screw is it there? Length and thread? Thanks!

2012 xp 900. About 2500 miles. Burns oil, hard start. still have power. runs good when warmed up. a crappy filter at the dunes contributed, although always had a knock in the motor, so thinking about a new one. So my questions and thoughts for your consideration.I appreciate it!!! I have mechanical ability to at least remove/install. But don’t know if I want to deal with it.
-should I get a new crate motor or a rebuild?
-should I have mine rebuilt?
-anybody know what the cost of a motor r and r would be?
-should I just take to a dealer and pay a boatload of money?
I am in AZ so any recommendations for specific folks that do a good job appreciated. I see by other threads that some vendors here can help. In a perfect world, would like to drop at a good shop in Phoenix and have them do it. Assume some motor upgrades could be in the cards from a good shop? Of course this all comes down to money! Any info on costs would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Put a SuperATV 1.5" forward a-arm kit on my wife’s XP yesterday and I can’t get the toe in dialed out with the tie rod ends that were supplied with the kit.

They’re bottoming out on the ends of the tie rods and I still need almost half an inch more toe out each side (presently getting about 7/8" toe in).

The bodies of the tie rod ends seem to be longer than the stockers, but it would appear that the threaded section’s not long enough.

Anyone else seeing an issue like this?

The parts in the kit are all top notch and good quality, but I’m bummed that they’re not working like they’re supposed to.