So I purchased new wheels and tires and my spare will no longer fit on the bumper/cage extension. The round flange that holds it to the back is too small (
3 3/4") and goes right through the hole in the rim. I like the spare in this location because it does not take up bed space but I am open for options. I prefer the mount to use the lug holes so it doesn’t scratch up or crack the wheel. Here is my wheel: Make STI Model #HD6, Bolt Pattern 4/156, Offset 4+3, Size 14×7. Please see attached photos. HELP
So I purchased new wheels and tires and my spare will no longer fit on the bumper/cage extension. The round flange that holds it to the back is too small (
3 3/4") and goes right through the hole in the rim. I like the spare in this location because it does not take up bed space but I am open for options. I prefer the mount to use the lug holes so it doesn’t scratch up or crack the wheel. Here is my wheel: Make STI Model #HD6, Bolt Pattern 4/156, Offset 4+3, Size 14×7. Please see attached photos. HELP
I have a 2013 XP4 900 I got from a member on these forums. It had a stock cage and 12 x 10 x 28 beadlocks and power steering and I believe he revalved the shocks slightly and it was well taken care of.
The first year it handled great! I was able to do donuts, haul a$$ and slide the rear through corners very controlled. I typically ride desert trails like Ocotillo, Salton Sea, Red Mountain, Barstow, etc. No sand or dunes & lots of fast rides, some sand washes, whoops, fire roads, etc. Just desert hard packed trails
Last year I put on a DG cage and the RZR handling was completely different. I was unable to ride fast and make steering corrections as the body roll made the car feel like it was going to roll. (I did roll it trying to do a donut, never again). I figured the cage tightened up the chassis, but it’s getting ridiculous where I can’t do donuts or turn at speed. I have to reduce speed drastically when I come up on a turn or chicane on a fast road.
The body rolls so much, I turned the clickers much harder in the shocks, it didn’t really help much with the body roll (It might’ve, but the ride was too harsh so I backed them out a bit (not as much as before) and the body roll was definitely back, not sure if it ever went away).
I do see one or two of the shocks are leaking, but this handling sensation was right after I got the cage. However this was probably the same time, but I do drive the car hard.
Any advice? Should I do the needle conversion? Should I just get the shocks serviced? Is this the way the car handles after the new cage and I have to live with it?
Hey guys ok so I recently tore apart the front end of my 900 to only find more issues as I dug. I had some questions I was turned on to the racertech step washers by a fellow member and seems to be a great idea my question is how is everyone tig welding in the far back lower A-arm mount washer I don’t see anyway of welding all the way on the washer is only welding the first half ok and having the bolt hold in place??? Or has anyone had any experience with the full weld in gusset kits thanks in advance :ok:
can someone post center of hub to center hub front to back, broke a lower ball joint and hit a hill not bad just want to make sure it is square. also dose anyone have camber and cast specs. I own a shop with alignment machine. At the time of repairs i installed super atv high clearance arms with adjustments.
can someone post center of hub to center hub front to back, broke a lower ball joint and hit a hill not bad just want to make sure it is square. also dose anyone have camber and cast specs. I own a shop with alignment machine. At the time of repairs i installed super atv high clearance arms with adjustments.
Stock 2013 900-XP4 with ~1800 miles. Recently, when starting, the engine will make a significant knocking noise. It seems less severe if I turn the the key to on and let the fuel pump stop before starting. After starting, it runs fine at all RPM / Load Range / Speed, etc. Any ideas, cautions, etc.?
