On the last ride I went on the sway bar link bolt wobbled out of the side of the trailing arm. Causing the link bolt to move up and down and pinch my brake line above the trailing arm. Looks like it it was being pushed down onto the trailing arm and than pushed below it to the side. While I never loss brake power or felt the brakes catch, the stainless steel braided line held up. The plastic housing was rubbed off though. Right now I am fixing every thing up and I need to know if I should replace the brake line.
We just got our new to us 2012 XP4 900 this weekend with only 390mi and 58hrs on the clock. It seems to be in great shape, with one exception:
We took it out to East Texas today to do some riding and the front suspension makes a hard "clunk" when going over sharp rocks. It almost feels like the shock is topping out and has zero rebound dampening. But the shock seems to have far too much travel for this to be the case. It is however a very sharp dead clunking like the front of the frame being smacked with a dead blow hammer. This even happens on baseball sized rocks going 10-15mph.
I am getting ready to rebuild the motor and will be upgrading to a big bore kit. Any suggestions? I mainly ride dunes and desert trails. Input from those with a big bore kit would be greatly appreciated. Funding not really an issue.
I installed a light bar that came with a wiring harness, relay, and a cheap switch that I plan on changing out later. The way it is wired up now, per instructions , is the light comes on without ignition switch on. The cheap switch has a red, and green light. The red is on always, until you turn lights on, then turns green.
If I want the light to come on ONLY when ignition is turned on, and works off switch ,do I remove the positive wire to battery, which has a fuse, and is connected to number 30 on the relay, and just tap in to something that works off ignition? Any suggestions on where, and what to connect to? I just need reassurance on what I want to do. I have a 2014 4 900.
I installed a light bar that came with a wiring harness, relay, and a cheap switch that I plan on changing out later. The way it is wired up now, per instructions , is the light comes on without ignition switch on. The cheap switch has a red, and green light. The red is on always, until you turn lights on, then turns green.
If I want the light to come on ONLY when ignition is turned on, and works off switch ,do I remove the positive wire to battery, which has a fuse, and is connected to number 30 on the relay, and just tap in to something that works off ignition? Any suggestions on where, and what to connect to? I just need reassurance on what I want to do. I have a 2014 4 900.
Hello everyone. We are having a sale on our high end RZR-4 roofs by AudioFormz. The quantities are VERY limited so if your interested hurry. These will fit the RZR-4 800 and RZR XP-4 900.
While bike is running can’t go into or out of reverse. With motor off shifts freely. Blew out and sprayed primary. Rollers roll with no apparent flat spots. I had similar issue in a 570 and changed the clutch bearing problem solved. Any suggestions? Should I change bearing it seems to roll smooth.
I was worried because I found some dust in the oil. It’s like a very small particles of dust or something like that, the engine doesn’t smoke or have oil consumption… I change the oil again in less than 80 miles. I noticed that the oil breather hose goes directly to the air intake box in the left of the RZR and hasn’t an air filter or something, only the prefilter in the side.
In the intake I have a SLP prefilters, DMC Double Down Eq, UTV Inc Air Intake LID spacer, grease, K&N Filter and the Foam Buddy from DMC, then I think isn’t that way.
I just add a little air filter to the hose inside the left compartment, anybody does the same or what’s your recommendation?..
Hope you can see the air filter in the attached pic, inside the intake side panel.
