I went to a Batteries Plus Store in Tucson to look for a sealed 12 volt, deep cycle battery that would drop into the RZRs dual battery box! The 2nd battery would NOT be used for the RZR but would power other things that we take along. I just liked the idea of keeping it out of the way, and what better way to use the additional room provided!!
I had taken measurements and had a photo of the Polaris battery area and when the Batteries Plus Employee saw the battery that Polaris was using, he was actually shocked that it wasn’t a sealed battery!! This is our first Polaris and I’m certainly NOT a battery expert….
He told me that a non sealed battery is the worst type of battery for any off road vehicle!!:rm_thumbdown:
Would really appreciate any input on what brand of batteries that other RZR owners are using!! :huepfenicon111:
I went to a Batteries Plus Store in Tucson to look for a sealed 12 volt, deep cycle battery that would drop into the RZRs dual battery box! The 2nd battery would NOT be used for the RZR but would power other things that we take along. I just liked the idea of keeping it out of the way, and what better way to use the additional room provided!!
I had taken measurements and had a photo of the Polaris battery area and when the Batteries Plus Employee saw the battery that Polaris was using, he was actually shocked that it wasn’t a sealed battery!! This is our first Polaris and I’m certainly NOT a battery expert….
He told me that a non sealed battery is the worst type of battery for any off road vehicle!!:rm_thumbdown:
Would really appreciate any input on what brand of batteries that other RZR owners are using!! :huepfenicon111:
Has anyone ever installed or run a pair of these? I have them and installed them but the fitment has been an issue. Don’t get me wrong we got them in and to work but they are just kinda loose when clicked into the car. Maybe I missed something? I would give pictures but my car is back at the shop.
Ok as the topic states I am thinking about saling the 2013 Jagged X and getting a new either 2015 or 2016 XP 1000 4 seater. So this topic really goes out to those out there who have a 1000 4 seater. I know the 1K is longer but is it that much noticeable over the 900 4 seater? How about the turning radius? I am going to test drive a new one tomorrow but I would like more input from the guys who have a 1K 4 seater. What are your likes and what are your dislikes?
Thanks
Hi guys just got a new xp4 1000 blue last week. Took it out for my first rides on the weekend. There are a lot of steep mountain trails here on vancouver island and was wondering if anyone knows the proper braking technique for coming down real steep trails. Going up is easy coming down is another thing. I put it in high and used the engine brakes but when it picked up to much speed I had to touch the brakes , then the free wheel kicks in and it sea like you have to stop it completely and the hit the gas to get the engine brakes back. Should I bee in low i tried it and it felt to jolting coming down and kind of skidded a little. Anyone have more experience I am a newbie at side by sides. My quad always had the engine brakes and no free wheel. Thanks
Okay…I know this topic has been beaten to death. I found several threads about the factory distribution block. However, I couldn’t find any that mentioned the problem I’m having.
I own a ’15 1kXP4. It’s my understanding that the "batt" stud does not have power. Fair enough, I wasn’t planning to use it anyway. However, the "ACC" stud has no power, with the key in the ON position.
I took a multimeter, probed the ACC and GRND studs with the key off. 0V – which is expected. I then turned my key on and did the same, 0V. I then started the car, still 0V.
Does the ACC stud not have power from the factory? I’m just trying to run two switches off it, so it lights up the bottom portion of the switch when the key is on. Any suggestions on what might be wrong, or where I can get ACC only power for my two switches?
Okay…I know this topic has been beaten to death. I found several threads about the factory distribution block. However, I couldn’t find any that mentioned the problem I’m having.
I own a ’15 1kXP4. It’s my understanding that the "batt" stud does not have power. Fair enough, I wasn’t planning to use it anyway. However, the "ACC" stud has no power, with the key in the ON position.
I took a multimeter, probed the ACC and GRND studs with the key off. 0V – which is expected. I then turned my key on and did the same, 0V. I then started the car, still 0V.
Does the ACC stud not have power from the factory? I’m just trying to run two switches off it, so it lights up the bottom portion of the switch when the key is on. Any suggestions on what might be wrong, or where I can get ACC only power for my two switches?
Has anyone else experienced this? When I take off in high range it has a really bad hopping issue at the beginning. My machine is 2014 XP1 4, 31" Motohammer tires. Any help would be great! Thanks Guys!
Set of 20 pcs.
Choose from Hard anodized clear, Blue, Red, Orange or Raw aluminum for the DIY guys that want to finish them themselves.
We tried as hard as we could to keep the price at 35-37. After running all the numbers from material costs all the way to picking the parts up from the plate shop. We came up slightly over at 38.00 for the full kit.
100% made here in the USA using U.S. sourced raw materials.
