Category Archives: RZR XP 4 1000

STM clutch help !!

So i have the new STM rage 3 clutch set up, i finally have got my cam arm weight tuned in for the most part,but the problem I am having is when I take off from a dead stop I get this jerking when I first ease into the throttle and then it goes away !! My motor mount are good Ive tried different belts cuz I thought it might of had a flat spot but still continues to do it! any help or input would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance!!

Polaris RZR 1000 4″ Portal Gear Lift Sale at Team FAS!

Something for the mud crews! The 4" Gear Driven Performance Portals are here! See setup and top quality. Request your Quote today!

Polaris RZR 1000 4" Portal Gear Lift

Will fit:
Polaris RZR 1000 : 2014+
Polaris RZR 4 1000 : 2014+
Polaris RZR XP Turbo : 2016+

Why We Make Them?
Take back your torque with Gear Driven Performance by SuperATV. We all know monster tires rob your much-desired horsepower. To keep that ultimate performance and gain an extra 4” of coveted lift, you want GDP from SuperATV.

Why GDP?
The GDP portal lift system spares no details as the most comprehensive kit on the market. SuperATV knows suspension and transferred over 10 years of suspension engineering into the GDP portal lifts. GDP starts by vertically relocating the axle centerline while retaining factory steering geometry — a must if you want to increase the life of your axles, differential, and drive train components. Pair that with a 1.4:1 gear reduction (approximately 30%), and you’ve got a performance driven machine!

Performance
Pair with SuperATV lift kits, a arms, and axles for extreme performance
30% gear reduction
Designed for all terrains and riding styles

Axles
You will not chop your axles. GDP is the only kit on the market compatible with aftermarket and OEM axles with no modifications
GDP maintains performance-ready axle angles

Impenetrable Bearings and Seals
First in the industry thrust bearing that is specifically designed to take axial load, unlike the standard bearing that is only sufficient for radial loads
Automotive grade bearings
Press fit, precision ground gears and shafts to eliminate unwanted slop

Precision-Ground Gears: drive gear, idler gear and driven gear
Precision-ground chromium titanium alloy gears for industry best performance
Eliminates friction for reduced heat, noise and allows you to run at higher speeds
Reduced friction build-up
Quiet gears at all speeds
Performs at machine’s fullest capacity

Steering Arm
Heavy duty structural member
10.9 grade hardware
Modular design for improved functionality

Aluminum Housing
CNC machined aluminum housing
Polished aluminum for long lasting, stylish finish

How About Adjustability? Pair with our adjustable a arms
GDP understands the need for adjustability allowing you to custom tailor your machine to match your riding needs
Eliminates unwanted, premature tire wear caused from misalignment
Camber adjustability on all SuperATV a arms

Mounting Plates and Pivot Blocks
CNC formed, fully gusseted 5/16” mounting plates
Forged pivot blocks

Slotted Rotors for Unmatched Cooling
Each wheel hub includes 4 bolt patterns 4/156, 4/137, 4/115, 4/110
Ability to utilize different wheels on same hub
Stainless steel, braided brake lines included in each kit

Wheel Requirements
Requires a 14" or larger wheel
Wheels can not exceed 5" backspacing
If using factory 14" wheels, you must run 2" wheel spacers

Running different mileage tires

I have an issue that I have to believe many others out there have ran into. So here it is. I put new Maxxis Bighorns on my 2014 XP 4 1000 about 800 miles ago. Mostly logging road riding with a few trips to the local dunes. Then last week we had a rear tire go flat. Whatever I ran over punctured the tallest part of the tread and put a good size hole in the tire. So much so that I put several plugs in the tire, had the tire patched, put in some slime and then finally a tube just to get the tire to hold air. So I ordered a new tire. When it arrived I measured the tread depth on the new tire and the other rear tire. There is about 3/16" difference. The new tread obviously being taller. So my questions is this: What do you all do in this situation? Is it safe to run with that much tread difference? Do you have to buy tires in pairs every time you get a flat?

Running different mileage tires

I have an issue that I have to believe many others out there have ran into. So here it is. I put new Maxxis Bighorns on my 2014 XP 4 1000 about 800 miles ago. Mostly logging road riding with a few trips to the local dunes. Then last week we had a rear tire go flat. Whatever I ran over punctured the tallest part of the tread and put a good size hole in the tire. So much so that I put several plugs in the tire, had the tire patched, put in some slime and then finally a tube just to get the tire to hold air. So I ordered a new tire. When it arrived I measured the tread depth on the new tire and the other rear tire. There is about 3/16" difference. The new tread obviously being taller. So my questions is this: What do you all do in this situation? Is it safe to run with that much tread difference? Do you have to buy tires in pairs every time you get a flat?

Running different mileage tires

I have an issue that I have to believe many others out there have ran into. So here it is. I put new Maxxis Bighorns on my 2014 XP 4 1000 about 800 miles ago. Mostly logging road riding with a few trips to the local dunes. Then last week we had a rear tire go flat. Whatever I ran over punctured the tallest part of the tread and put a good size hole in the tire. So much so that I put several plugs in the tire, had the tire patched, put in some slime and then finally a tube just to get the tire to hold air. So I ordered a new tire. When it arrived I measured the tread depth on the new tire and the other rear tire. There is about 3/16" difference. The new tread obviously being taller. So my questions is this: What do you all do in this situation? Is it safe to run with that much tread difference? Do you have to buy tires in pairs every time you get a flat?