So just scored a deal on a new 1000. What isa good method to break these in? Do what the book says or just get on a go with cool down periods?

Something for the mud crews! The 4" Gear Driven Performance Portals are here! See setup and top quality. Request your Quote today!

Polaris RZR 1000 4" Portal Gear Lift

Will fit:
Polaris RZR 1000 : 2014+
Polaris RZR 4 1000 : 2014+
Polaris RZR XP Turbo : 2016+

Why We Make Them?
Take back your torque with Gear Driven Performance by SuperATV. We all know monster tires rob your much-desired horsepower. To keep that ultimate performance and gain an extra 4” of coveted lift, you want GDP from SuperATV.

Why GDP?
The GDP portal lift system spares no details as the most comprehensive kit on the market. SuperATV knows suspension and transferred over 10 years of suspension engineering into the GDP portal lifts. GDP starts by vertically relocating the axle centerline while retaining factory steering geometry — a must if you want to increase the life of your axles, differential, and drive train components. Pair that with a 1.4:1 gear reduction (approximately 30%), and you’ve got a performance driven machine!

Performance
Pair with SuperATV lift kits, a arms, and axles for extreme performance
30% gear reduction
Designed for all terrains and riding styles

Axles
You will not chop your axles. GDP is the only kit on the market compatible with aftermarket and OEM axles with no modifications
GDP maintains performance-ready axle angles

Impenetrable Bearings and Seals
First in the industry thrust bearing that is specifically designed to take axial load, unlike the standard bearing that is only sufficient for radial loads
Automotive grade bearings
Press fit, precision ground gears and shafts to eliminate unwanted slop

Precision-Ground Gears: drive gear, idler gear and driven gear
Precision-ground chromium titanium alloy gears for industry best performance
Eliminates friction for reduced heat, noise and allows you to run at higher speeds
Reduced friction build-up
Quiet gears at all speeds
Performs at machine’s fullest capacity

Steering Arm
Heavy duty structural member
10.9 grade hardware
Modular design for improved functionality

Aluminum Housing
CNC machined aluminum housing
Polished aluminum for long lasting, stylish finish

How About Adjustability? Pair with our adjustable a arms
GDP understands the need for adjustability allowing you to custom tailor your machine to match your riding needs
Eliminates unwanted, premature tire wear caused from misalignment
Camber adjustability on all SuperATV a arms

Mounting Plates and Pivot Blocks
CNC formed, fully gusseted 5/16” mounting plates
Forged pivot blocks

Slotted Rotors for Unmatched Cooling
Each wheel hub includes 4 bolt patterns 4/156, 4/137, 4/115, 4/110
Ability to utilize different wheels on same hub
Stainless steel, braided brake lines included in each kit

Wheel Requirements
Requires a 14" or larger wheel
Wheels can not exceed 5" backspacing
If using factory 14" wheels, you must run 2" wheel spacers

Anyone know what the shock spring rate for the fox edition ?

Hi

I am gettinbg my RZR turbo in 2 weeks and before I am buying all the acessories and ordering parts from dealer and would like to know what parts do you all buy for protection, I am sure I should buy the HMW Skid plate but for example, should I get the following:

HMW front arms Guards
HMW Trailing Arm Guards

thos 2 parts are bulky and heavy, are they a must to protect the suspension?

thank You

Not sure this is something to even worry about but I notice my front drivers side tire is a bit wobbly going down the road. Cant notice it in the dirt, but on pavement I can watch it spin and there is a definite wobble to it. Any experience with this?

Stock rims and tires on my 16 xp 1000. Ive also noticed some squeaks going on in the front end. Id like to go squeak free if anyone has any tips?

Thanks

I have never owned a side x side before, grew up on dirt bikes and motorcycles. Due to a hip replacement injury, I have found riding dirt bikes to be difficult now..

So I’m thinking a side x side will work well..

My local dealer has a deal on a new 2015 RZR 1000 (about $19k), a new 2015 High Lifter ($22,500) or should I spring for a 2016 RZR Turbo?

Where I live is a variety of riding, from sand dunes to mountain trails, not really much mud.

I have now done some extensive testing and setup of Boondocker’s Rip-Tied clutch setup on my 2014 XP 1000.

Testing was done on my heavily modified rig…it is set up for desert racing, and weighs 1850 lbs with half a tank of fuel…spare tire, parts & tools, etc. Running on 30x10x14 Motocrawlers.

The motor is a fully built Sparks 1110 naturally aspirated motor with pump gas friendly 11.5 compression.

Bottom line….I think this is one of the best performance mods you can do to your RZR!

It definitely works better with a re-flashed ECM which raises the rev limiter.

Initially my RZR was running 65-66 mph at the 500 foot mark, with a top speed of 80-81 mph on gps at 8450-8500 rpm. This was using a dirty dog clutch setup.

Now with boondocker’s clutch setup my RZR is running 70-71 mph at the 500 foot mark, with a top speed of 77-78 mph at 8750-8800 rpm…with top speed coming much sooner in my steady uphill, .5 mile, test section of road

The rip-tied clutch can be geared differently depending on which belt you use…with the arctic cat belt being the normal one delivered with at about 25% under driven. A narrower belt can be used which brings the gearing back to about 5% overdriven. Boondocker is working on a proprietary belt which is somewhere in between. The arctic cat belt can be had online for about $50

75% of my riding is done on technical trails. Also observing my average speed when going to the Oregon dunes…I noticed that it was between 30 and 60 mph. So sacrificing some top end for much greater acceleration seemed like a good deal.

Seat of the pants acceleration differences are amazing between this setup and stock!

I elected to go with boondocker’s somewhat pricey enclosed cover due to the very muddy and dirty conditions I mostly ride in. The down side to this cover is that the secondary must be removed in order to change belts….something that I initially dreaded…but have found out that since it is splined…it is quite easy and quick. I can do a complete belt change in under 10 minutes. When using the open cover that is provided with the kit, belt changes can be accomplished without removing anything but the belt. I have checked to see if the Fuel Customs cover will work with this setup….and it will not.

Another nice feature of the TIED secondary is the ability to use the treaded tool to spread the secondary for belt changes, and the ability to set initial belt tension.

Talking about clutch engagement, there is an aluminum spacer installed under the primary clutch spring that starts moving the car at about 2800 rpm…and talk about smooth…wow!

I found this high engagement point to be a little too high for my liking…but might be better on a standard bore motor which has less torque than my 1110 motor.

I removed the aluminum spacer which brought clutch engagement down to a modest 1800 rpm…so it starts barely moving the car just above my 1200 rpm idle. The clutch now works so smoothly, that it feels like the automatic transmission on a car!

For comparison sake…my 1110 pump gas motor makes approximately 145-147 hp at the crank according to Sparks. A couple of weeks ago I had the opportunity to race an XPT on the beach in Oregon. This was using the stock clutch with the dirty dog clutch setup. I was able to just barely out accelerate him in a best of 3 out of 3 races…by between .5 and one car length in the bottom and midrange…but consistently pulled him on the top end by quite a bit. My car was doing 79-80 on GPS that day, and I GPSed him at 73-74 mph on the sand. To be fair…I was using STU paddles, and he was on stock tires.
An XPT with a reflash is going to be able to beat me.

Now with the Rip-Tied clutch setup…I could extremely out accelerate a stock XPT…and will have to see how we do in a race…time will tell.

If I get discouraged…I will have to put a boondocker turbo on my 1110…but I sure like the reliability of my NA motor. 3000 miles on it, and it is running like a top, and hasn’t burned an ounce of oil.

When doing one of the desert races, or the KOH race next year, I will probably use the narrower belt in order to get some more top speed. The dry lake beds are some of the only opportunities to pass.

Overall…I love this clutch setup…and think it is one of the best mods one can make to the RZR.

Chris
Bottom Line Racing

Attached Thumbnails

 

 

 

I have now done some extensive testing and setup of Boondocker’s Rip-Tied clutch setup on my 2014 XP 1000.

Testing was done on my heavily modified rig…it is set up for desert racing, and weighs 1850 lbs with half a tank of fuel…spare tire, parts & tools, etc. Running on 30x10x14 Motocrawlers.

The motor is a fully built Sparks 1110 naturally aspirated motor with pump gas friendly 11.5 compression.

Bottom line….I think this is one of the best performance mods you can do to your RZR!

It definitely works better with a re-flashed ECM which raises the rev limiter.

Initially my RZR was running 65-66 mph at the 500 foot mark, with a top speed of 80-81 mph on gps at 8450-8500 rpm. This was using a dirty dog clutch setup.

Now with boondocker’s clutch setup my RZR is running 70-71 mph at the 500 foot mark, with a top speed of 77-78 mph at 8750-8800 rpm…with top speed coming much sooner in my steady uphill, .5 mile, test section of road

The rip-tied clutch can be geared differently depending on which belt you use…with the arctic cat belt being the normal one delivered with at about 25% under driven. A narrower belt can be used which brings the gearing back to about 5% overdriven. Boondocker is working on a proprietary belt which is somewhere in between. The arctic cat belt can be had online for about $50

75% of my riding is done on technical trails. Also observing my average speed when going to the Oregon dunes…I noticed that it was between 30 and 60 mph. So sacrificing some top end for much greater acceleration seemed like a good deal.

Seat of the pants acceleration differences are amazing between this setup and stock!

I elected to go with boondocker’s somewhat pricey enclosed cover due to the very muddy and dirty conditions I mostly ride in. The down side to this cover is that the secondary must be removed in order to change belts….something that I initially dreaded…but have found out that since it is splined…it is quite easy and quick. I can do a complete belt change in under 10 minutes. When using the open cover that is provided with the kit, belt changes can be accomplished without removing anything but the belt. I have checked to see if the Fuel Customs cover will work with this setup….and it will not.

Another nice feature of the TIED secondary is the ability to use the treaded tool to spread the secondary for belt changes, and the ability to set initial belt tension.

Talking about clutch engagement, there is an aluminum spacer installed under the primary clutch spring that starts moving the car at about 2800 rpm…and talk about smooth…wow!

I found this high engagement point to be a little too high for my liking…but might be better on a standard bore motor which has less torque than my 1110 motor.

I removed the aluminum spacer which brought clutch engagement down to a modest 1800 rpm…so it starts barely moving the car just above my 1200 rpm idle. The clutch now works so smoothly, that it feels like the automatic transmission on a car!

For comparison sake…my 1110 pump gas motor makes approximately 145-147 hp at the crank according to Sparks. A couple of weeks ago I had the opportunity to race an XPT on the beach in Oregon. This was using the stock clutch with the dirty dog clutch setup. I was able to just barely out accelerate him in a best of 3 out of 3 races…by between .5 and one car length in the bottom and midrange…but consistently pulled him on the top end by quite a bit. My car was doing 79-80 on GPS that day, and I GPSed him at 73-74 mph on the sand. To be fair…I was using STU paddles, and he was on stock tires.
An XPT with a reflash is going to be able to beat me.

Now with the Rip-Tied clutch setup…I could extremely out accelerate a stock XPT…and will have to see how we do in a race…time will tell.

If I get discouraged…I will have to put a boondocker turbo on my 1110…but I sure like the reliability of my NA motor. 3000 miles on it, and it is running like a top, and hasn’t burned an ounce of oil.

When doing one of the desert races, or the KOH race next year, I will probably use the narrower belt in order to get some more top speed. The dry lake beds are some of the only opportunities to pass.

Overall…I love this clutch setup…and think it is one of the best mods one can make to the RZR.

Chris
Bottom Line Racing

Attached Thumbnails

 

 

 

was in a race and the trany popped out of gear and started to grind then got in gear, as soon as you give any gas it pops out. now it will not stay in any gear. is there any up grade or will the turbo trany bolt up and work. so what’s my options now. thanks

was in a race and the trany popped out of gear and started to grind then got in gear, as soon as you give any gas it pops out. now it will not stay in any gear. is there any up grade or will the turbo trany bolt up and work. so what’s my options now. thanks