We are having a sale on the Dragonfire Racing Door Panel Slammer kits for the XP 1000 and S900. Available with or without graphics.
When it comes Lower Door Panel kits you get what you pay for. The Dragonfire Racing kits are as strong and durable as they get. Unlike other kits, these feature a gusset that keeps the door panel from flapping in the breeze while you ride.
Features:
•Door Slammer Kit included to optimize OEM door function
•Constructed of aircraft grade aluminum
•Built-in gusset supports
•Designed to match OEM body lines
•Bump stops included to add rigidity when doors are closed
•Less expensive than OEM lower half door kit
•Graphics kits available separately
•Made in USA
Retail for Door Panel Kit without graphics $299.99
Retail for Door Panel Kit with graphics $429.98
After we upgrade to the 1K from our 800s, found we could NOT get the new RZR into the back of the truck like we could with the 800s. Tried pulling in the suspension but still could not get the rear wheels thru the tailgate. We carry the RZR in a toy hauler, but need a way to transport for day trips when we are camping. My first idea was to design a multi part rack that would lock into the 5th wheel hitch for stability. Rattled that around for awhile then saw the rack ‘cdinges56′ made to haul his RZR 900 on the forum. Shamelessly used that and modified to work for my RZR 1K. For ease of handling and ability to haul in the back of the truck, I made it into 4 sections, put 3 vertical supports in the bed and another support coming off the trailer hitch to the rear of the racks. I went with the 11’ aluminum folding ramps from Long Ramps ( division of Diamond Back). I’m at the upper limit for the ramp capacity, but they did not flex a bit when I loaded. I used 1.5" square tube, 1/8" wall and 1.25" square tube as the internal sleeve to join the 4 pieces. It did take quite a bit of sanding on the I.D. of the 1.5" tube to remove the weld ridge to get a good fit for the sleeve. It does sit rather high into the wind stream, but I
only plan to haul for short distances and will keep the speed down.
Today I finally got the Rhys Millen Racing extended flares installed on my HLE, but with that comes a problem. The way the front flares are formed, they only leave me an inch or so of clearance from tire to flare at ride height during certain turning scenarios. After beating around the farm for a bit, the tires will scrub the flares, even under light riding conditions.
Because of this, I have to change the front suspension on my ride to better clear the tires. However, I do not want my ride to get any worse than it already is. I am not a pure mud rider, as I prefer rock crawling and moderate trail riding over the bogs. So, simply cranking the shocks down to kick the front up some is not an option for me. Because of the off chamber and technical terrain I ride, I want to increase the center of gravity as little as possible as well, but added ground clearance would be a plus as well.
Does anyone run any of the 3-5" lifts that are available on only the front of their vehicle? How much lift do these lifts create if you leave the shock collars in the stock location? I guess what I am getting at is that I am considering adding a lift to the front, and then loosening the shocks as much as I can while still achieving enough lift to clear the front flares.
I guess I could do the same in the rear, and hopefully make the ride a bit smoother all around on my rig, but how would that affect the stability of the vehicle? I am not much of a speed demon, but I don’t want to feel a whole bunch of body roll in every corner I take.
What would you guys recommend as a solution for my issue? I have considered installing some new tender springs, silent cross over rings, etc but I don’t know if that will get me lift I am looking for. My budget doesn’t allow for a whole new custom set of springs, shocks, and all that.
Today I finally got the Rhys Millen Racing extended flares installed on my HLE, but with that comes a problem. The way the front flares are formed, they only leave me an inch or so of clearance from tire to flare at ride height during certain turning scenarios. After beating around the farm for a bit, the tires will scrub the flares, even under light riding conditions.
Because of this, I have to change the front suspension on my ride to better clear the tires. However, I do not want my ride to get any worse than it already is. I am not a pure mud rider, as I prefer rock crawling and moderate trail riding over the bogs. So, simply cranking the shocks down to kick the front up some is not an option for me. Because of the off chamber and technical terrain I ride, I want to increase the center of gravity as little as possible as well, but added ground clearance would be a plus as well.
Does anyone run any of the 3-5" lifts that are available on only the front of their vehicle? How much lift do these lifts create if you leave the shock collars in the stock location? I guess what I am getting at is that I am considering adding a lift to the front, and then loosening the shocks as much as I can while still achieving enough lift to clear the front flares.
I guess I could do the same in the rear, and hopefully make the ride a bit smoother all around on my rig, but how would that affect the stability of the vehicle? I am not much of a speed demon, but I don’t want to feel a whole bunch of body roll in every corner I take.
What would you guys recommend as a solution for my issue? I have considered installing some new tender springs, silent cross over rings, etc but I don’t know if that will get me lift I am looking for. My budget doesn’t allow for a whole new custom set of springs, shocks, and all that.
Skipping all the little details I am trying to find part number 5258255 for the Polaris lower door inserts. The directions say it is a lower door mount, RH. Does anyone have anything laying around for any reason they’d be willing to sell me? I have the other side but not this one. I looked online but I cannot seem to find where I can buy this particular part.
Hey guys, looking for a little info on the Super ATV radius rod kits.
1) Just received my order, new set of the Super ATV rear rods, how is the feedback on their rod ends?
2) what are the center to center measurements people are using, the directions say to go 25.5 end to end (on centers) but that seems like a lot compared to stock rod length.
3) when tightening the dual heim ends, what’s the correct method to tighten them so they won’t loosen up but still have enough movement for articulation?
I do not have the clutch tool supplied in the RZR 1K tool kit. Actually I never got a tool kit, its on order. But I’m going on a trip and would like a heads up on changing the belt.
I saw a video of a guy changing the belt on an older 800, and he used a 3/8 socket extension, stuck it in the hole and spread apart the clutch. Anyone know if the extension trick will work on the 1K clutch? Or know of any other tool??
Got my new 1K 2 weeks ago. Front Diff. noise was bad, just like what has been described here many times "rocks in a can". I was pretty much expecting it cause I’ve heard so much about it here. Even though few failures have been reported, its down right annoying with that constant noise coming from the front end.
I took it into the dealer to have a winch installed, and told them to check out the noise in front end. They did and determined it was in the differential. Filed a claim with Polaris and 2 days later it was approved..New Front Differential ordered, however it was on backorder. I said fine I’ll wait.
Got my 1K back today with the new Differential and its like a whole new machine, completely quiet front end so far, I havent hit it hard yet, but the original Diff would started rattling at anything over 10mph and this is definatly an improvement.
BTW dealer told me the Diff had a new part number. And also said it appeared as if it was pulled off from the assembly line. So I guess we can assume new 2016 1K’s will NOT have the noisy Differential issue.
