I sure hope its a direct replacement. I would love to have no reverse chain. Maybe this will bring the price down on the Turner chains.

I find myself in need of a new XP1000, so do I buy a 2016 or look for a good deal on a 2015?
What did they change on the 2016s?
Do they have the new clutch and clutch cooling system that the turbo does?
Do they have the new ECM that has altitude and fuel compensation like the new turbo?
Did they relocate the VR in front of the radiator like the turbo?
Last, and the biggest do they have the new chainless reverse transmission that the turbo does?
If anyone has a 2016 and knows answers to any of thease questions or knows of any other changes that I missed please post up, it would sure help me make up my mind.
Thanks for any help.
Mark

Anyone have a part number for aftermarket replacement heim for stock rear radius rod? Don’t really want to buy complete radius rod from polaris.

Thanks

In the just under 2 years I’ve had my 1k, I’ve only pulled 1 inner tie rod joint in half. This is with a fair amount of rock abuse, some local short course, a couple hour endurance race with rocks etc. I finally have most of the rest of the machine to the point that it seldom breaks. One of my last weak links were my tie rods. I don’t like most of the heim kits out there as, from what I’ve seen, the pivot point of the heim ball isn’t the same as the pivot point of the OE spherical ball. If the length of rod isn’t right, your toe changes a fair amount as the suspension cycles. The tires are turning when you don’t want them to. With full front travel at full droop and full lock you’re pretty far out there on your outer cv angle. If at full droop your are getting toe change it can be bad.
Racer tech came out with a kit that has a uniball:

COM ? HCOM Spherical Bearings | Rod End Supply | Rodend Supply

in a uniball cup that has the proper thread for the rack on the backside. This is supposed to put the pivot point back in the proper place.

As it is, I assumed they would come through the uniball with a stud from the backside, nut a misalignment spacer on the outside, leave room for the boot, and put another nut on for the jam nut.

They used a rod end stud, which is made for use in lateral loading only (on the stud) The thing which holds it in the rod end (uniball in this case) is a small dimple. It is easily pulled in half.

Example of a rod stud:

it sticks through about like this:

And then you put a dimple on it to hold it in place. It is to make sure the ball doesn’t FALL off. It is not made to hold the ball on the shank up and down (in and out in the tie rod case)

Dimple:

The tie rod sees a lot of loads that are in and out, basically that is the only load it is made to see. With the rod stud barely held in the uniball with a dimple, how is it to stay together?

The answer, I suppose, is that it doesn’t. Mine were on a total of 15 minutes of run time, and the first time a rubbed on a guy it came in half, ended the race, my season points, and a front axle from the oversteer. I have a call in at RT, hopefully they call me back and tell me how they/I should address the problem. Another rod stud is not a fix, it needs positively held from the backside of the uniball in the cup.
Also, another friend bought the kit the same time and we ran them for the first time this weekend. Generally in a single shear joint mount (outer tie rod to knuckle) you would want the bolt shank to extend through the mating surface of the joint and what it is moving (outer knuckle in this case). A thread is a stress riser, and a huge weak point for a crack or tear to start. The factory bolt is about an inch too long with teh cotter pin over 1/2" from the nut. Wonder why? They didn’t want to design a special bolt with not much thread and a ton of shank is my guess. Use a long enough one to get shank all the way down in the knuckle and let the thread run wild. RT decided to use a bolt that starts the threads at the mating surface of the 2 items.

Come on, put the right bolt in your $270 self proclaimed unbreakable tie rods, "Racer Tech was the first company to release HD Tie Rods over 9 years ago and we’ve had ZERO failures to date "

RZR XP 1000 Replacement Tie Rod Kit

Calling again this morning, and seeing what they have to say. I have another friend that races KOH as we used to, as well as the Iowa endurance series and a short course series. He bought RT tie rods as well to get away from his heims. I’ve told him to hold off until we have a solution. I’m sure there are others there that are soon to be disappointed.

In the just under 2 years I’ve had my 1k, I’ve only pulled 1 inner tie rod joint in half. This is with a fair amount of rock abuse, some local short course, a couple hour endurance race with rocks etc. I finally have most of the rest of the machine to the point that it seldom breaks. One of my last weak links were my tie rods. I don’t like most of the heim kits out there as, from what I’ve seen, the pivot point of the heim ball isn’t the same as the pivot point of the OE spherical ball. If the length of rod isn’t right, your toe changes a fair amount as the suspension cycles. The tires are turning when you don’t want them to. With full front travel at full droop and full lock you’re pretty far out there on your outer cv angle. If at full droop your are getting toe change it can be bad.
Racer tech came out with a kit that has a uniball:

COM ? HCOM Spherical Bearings | Rod End Supply | Rodend Supply

in a uniball cup that has the proper thread for the rack on the backside. This is supposed to put the pivot point back in the proper place.

As it is, I assumed they would come through the uniball with a stud from the backside, nut a misalignment spacer on the outside, leave room for the boot, and put another nut on for the jam nut.

They used a rod end stud, which is made for use in lateral loading only (on the stud) The thing which holds it in the rod end (uniball in this case) is a small dimple. It is easily pulled in half.

Example of a rod stud:

it sticks through about like this:

And then you put a dimple on it to hold it in place. It is to make sure the ball doesn’t FALL off. It is not made to hold the ball on the shank up and down (in and out in the tie rod case)

Dimple:

The tie rod sees a lot of loads that are in and out, basically that is the only load it is made to see. With the rod stud barely held in the uniball with a dimple, how is it to stay together?

The answer, I suppose, is that it doesn’t. Mine were on a total of 15 minutes of run time, and the first time a rubbed on a guy it came in half, ended the race, my season points, and a front axle from the oversteer. I have a call in at RT, hopefully they call me back and tell me how they/I should address the problem. Another rod stud is not a fix, it needs positively held from the backside of the uniball in the cup.
Also, another friend bought the kit the same time and we ran them for the first time this weekend. Generally in a single shear joint mount (outer tie rod to knuckle) you would want the bolt shank to extend through the mating surface of the joint and what it is moving (outer knuckle in this case). A thread is a stress riser, and a huge weak point for a crack or tear to start. The factory bolt is about an inch too long with teh cotter pin over 1/2" from the nut. Wonder why? They didn’t want to design a special bolt with not much thread and a ton of shank is my guess. Use a long enough one to get shank all the way down in the knuckle and let the thread run wild. RT decided to use a bolt that starts the threads at the mating surface of the 2 items.

Come on, put the right bolt in your $270 self proclaimed unbreakable tie rods, "Racer Tech was the first company to release HD Tie Rods over 9 years ago and we’ve had ZERO failures to date "

RZR XP 1000 Replacement Tie Rod Kit

Calling again this morning, and seeing what they have to say. I have another friend that races KOH as we used to, as well as the Iowa endurance series and a short course series. He bought RT tie rods as well to get away from his heims. I’ve told him to hold off until we have a solution. I’m sure there are others there that are soon to be disappointed.

I am only getting about 10 volts at my accessory post under the hood and I’m trying to install a fan override. Does this mean that my VR is bad? Ive seen posts about too much voltage but none under.—-2015 fox edition

thanks in advance
Ryan

Todd or anyone else have the weight of the arm handy. Wanted to crunch some numbers in comparison to my previous kits I’ve installed Vs what’s good out now.

Todd or anyone else have the weight of the arm handy. Wanted to crunch some numbers in comparison to my previous kits I’ve installed Vs what’s good out now.

So as the title says I’m done with my bighorns. I’ve got plugs in every single tire – just replaced one outright and I’m now sitting on two flat tire s after my first ride out.

I ride a lot of loose shale rock in our area that shreds sidewalks. I’ve been eyeing up the roctanes but I’m a bit worried about weight since I do a lot of high speed as well.

Anything else I should look at? I like the look of the Reptiles and interco makes great tires in the LT world but I have no experience with their ATV brands.

I know this subject has been beat to death but it’s come to a head for me so I need some input!

Thanks!

I picked up my 2015 XP1000 Fox Edition RZR and installed Axiom side by side new skid plates along with their front a-arm guards and trailing arm guards. Glad I did. Hit some under water big rocks you could not see and they saved me. This was at Ride Royal Blue In Tennessee. Great time there with good friends. Check them out @ Kawasaki Teryx & Polaris RZR Parts & Accessories | Polaris RZR 800, Polaris RZR 900 Parts, Kawasaki Teryx, Teryx 2 Parts | Aftermarket Parts For Sale