So I replaced my factory belt at 1100 miles with a Gates 24C4022 and now after clutches are engaged the secondary won’t stop spinning. I then tried a Polaris belt 3211162 which is what the dealer said was the replacement for my factory belt and it does it even worse. With the Gates belt I can stop the secondary with my hand. With the new Polaris belt I can’t stop it. These belts are thicker than my factory belt but are supposedly what is supposed to go on it.
Nothing was changed except the belt. Any thoughts?
So I replaced my factory belt at 1100 miles with a Gates 24C4022 and now after clutches are engaged the secondary won’t stop spinning. I then tried a Polaris belt 3211162 which is what the dealer said was the replacement for my factory belt and it does it even worse. With the Gates belt I can stop the secondary with my hand. With the new Polaris belt I can’t stop it. These belts are thicker than my factory belt but are supposedly what is supposed to go on it.
Nothing was changed except the belt. Any thoughts?
I’ve shearched and cant find my answer. No help on internet either…. My dealer put in a new oneway bearing on my 09 s and my secondary is spinning just as fast as the primary. Question is which way should the bearing spin if the primary is on the engine? clock wise or counter clock wise? My head cant seem to grasp which way for some D*#n reason! Thanks! 🙁
Can anyone please tell me if anyone makes a half door like the one on a 1000 made for a 800 S . I really don’t want a full door but I like the one on the new 1000.
Hey guys need help .. one day I was riding my sxs around the house and next thing I know it cut off and since then it doesn’t start or idle right now.. It once idled at around 1100 rpms now it wont barley get over 5-600 rpms — and if it does start it only starts for a couple seconds and then dies out.. ive read fourms about replacing my pump from auto zone Airtex E 8335 — is that for the 2010 model … if so does that sound like a fuel pump issue please lmk what you guys think thanks
last weekend my wifes S developed a clunk when u punch it on drives side only. i have been searching, stabilizer bar bolts r tight, shock bolts tight. only thing i found is axle nut may have loosened a bit because cotter pin was between the castelations so i retorqued the nut and put new cotter pin which now sits in the castelation. still has a thunk when u punch it. i noticed the housing where the brake pad pins go thru is square and im thinking this might b where im getting the clunk. anyone have any advice on anything else i should look for. all rear diff bolts r tight
last weekend my wifes S developed a clunk when u punch it on drives side only. i have been searching, stabilizer bar bolts r tight, shock bolts tight. only thing i found is axle nut may have loosened a bit because cotter pin was between the castelations so i retorqued the nut and put new cotter pin which now sits in the castelation. still has a thunk when u punch it. i noticed the housing where the brake pad pins go thru is square and im thinking this might b where im getting the clunk. anyone have any advice on anything else i should look for. all rear diff bolts r tight
