Category Archives: RZR S 900

Factory UTV vs UTV Inc

Looking at 3/8 UHMW complete skids. I want some opinions if there are any on the UTV Inc setup as I’ve heard all kinds of good things about FUTV’s but their price difference is $300. Thanks

900 S rear underbody protection.

I forget what company makes it but I’m running a piece of aluminum under the front stock plastic skid plate but nothing under the rear. I’ve broken by second test skid plate. Anyone know of someone making a piece for the rear?

900 S rear underbody protection.

I forget what company makes it but I’m running a piece of aluminum under the front stock plastic skid plate but nothing under the rear. I’ve broken by second test skid plate. Anyone know of someone making a piece for the rear?

Seats

Looking to buy a bench seat, the center bump seat just isn’t working anyMore… What’s the most comfortable best looking bench seat for the 900s… Looking to get ASAP

DIY snorkel and other things

so past three days I have been

-snorkeling my rzr (flex hose)
– front and rear super atv arms
– super atv 3 inch lift

I have been documenting my diy since there are not many out there for this model I will update with pics tomorrow

parts list
– 6′ of 2" black pvc flex hose (triangle atv style)
– (2) 3×2 (1) 2×2 reducer/connectors from lowes
– (6) additional clamps for connections
– 10′ of 3/8 hose for vent lines
– (1) T for 3/8 hose (1) barb
– dielectric grease
1′ 3/4" x 4" long exhaust pipe style for riser connectors

I am finishing the risers with marine exhaust hose that are flexible yet sturdy and stand up

first I removed the bed and cab piece behind the seat with a star wrench .

removed all stock snorkel intakes for belt intake/exhaust and motor intake

measured the distance from stock inlets/outlets and left extra and cut

connected the reducers for belt and the straight connector for intake to the hose pieces
(checked in bucker for leaks )

I attached the reducers on the belt it is kind of difficult with big hands and then the 2×2 for intake

removed the hood and connected the straight barb for the diff breather and ran the extension to the roll bar (driver side) and fed it up cage, cut to length and connected.

the gas tank vent line, and rear trans/diff breather I connected to T and then last connecter I ran the extension up the top of the cage

TO DO NEXT

I am going to check the belt box for leaks behind the clutches by (my version) filling the belt intake (NOT MOTOR) with water till it comes out and exhaust and any leaks I will go from there. I am hoping the seal behind my clutches is good and if not I will use grease to help.

the airbox does NOT seam air tight. I am going to investiage that and maybe replace seal with window trim to create a better seal with grease

check the crankcase line to see if factory slit is in it if so I will replace

finish the risers (haven’t decided how)

IF ANYTHING I HAVE WRITTEN CAN BE IMPROVED PLEASE LET ME KNOW. I am just trying to explain my method I am trying

on the other hand

the front arched arms/ rear raked arms from super atv are AMAZING. they were very easy to install and fit like a glove. look awesome and the quality of their welds and machining met my standards. very beefy

ONLY PROBLEM— my powdercoat for the front and rear seam to be off a shade of yellow

the 3 Inch lift was the same way, very sturdy and not washers here and spacers there and re use bolts. all new hardware, strong cross members, very happy I went this route.

this is all for now, hope yall enjoy I will post pics and everything tomorrow and as it is finished up .

32.5 outlaws and 14 inch elixers are begging to be put on….

connected the

Cage chop

I know this topic has kinda been beatin to death. I finally decided to do my cage chop. After cutting 3 1/2" out of the back, were the seat belt brackets are, the caged lowered, and behold! The cage B pillar was about an inch off of lining up with each other. Did you guys have to heat and bend the B pillar to get them to line up before welding them??