I’m looking at getting some new tires. I want something that is good in rocks and dirt and some mud. I want heavy ply ratings for running in the rocks. I also want to go a little wider for the front to give the wheel some protection. Last trip out I messed up the finish on the front wheels pretty good. The rear size is fine as the tires are a little wider than the rims so gives them some protection. The front tires look to be a little narrower than the rims so if you slide on a rock it beats up the rim. I want to stick close to the original size for 50". I already have 1.5" spacers so can’t go much wider as I ride narrow trails. I just barely fit through some spots now.
What are your recommendations for good all around tire and what size for the front?
Been riding atv’s since 1986 and just purchased my first set of after market shocks for my 900 Trail. I usually set.my preload on oem shocks 1 click past the middle setting. No paticular reason other than I’m a big guy. What’s the best way to determine best preload with my Bandit shocks?
Today I brought my 900 trail down to Bikeman for a Bully Dog tuner and stage 2 clutch install. Returning a couple hours later they were doing a few test runs (local PD not cooperating) checking rpms. A couple of weight adjustments and I was ready to go.
Bikeman shop is a 2 hour drive from my house. If you ever have a chance to visit their shop you really should. A bunch of really nice young guys who were very busy but made time to show me their shop, dyno, parts, etc…
Oh also when I got home and unloaded my bike it was really not my rzr….revs so fast…so much power…I am still smiling !!
Can’t wait to hit the trails this Saturday with my "new" bike !!!
Thanks Bikeman
Thanks Mike
Today I brought my 900 trail down to Bikeman for a Bully Dog tuner and stage 2 clutch install. Returning a couple hours later they were doing a few test runs (local PD not cooperating) checking rpms. A couple of weight adjustments and I was ready to go.
Bikeman shop is a 2 hour drive from my house. If you ever have a chance to visit their shop you really should. A bunch of really nice young guys who were very busy but made time to show me their shop, dyno, parts, etc…
Oh also when I got home and unloaded my bike it was really not my rzr….revs so fast…so much power…I am still smiling !!
Can’t wait to hit the trails this Saturday with my "new" bike !!!
Thanks Bikeman
Thanks Mike
Just upgraded to Bandit Shocks so I decided to unhook my front sway bar as well.
It seems there are a couple of recommended techniques…
1) Just disconnect one side. Most posts recommending this say to disconnect the lower link on one side and just zip tie it out of the way. Not sure if that is for a different model with different links.
2) Remove the links on both sides and zip tie the sway bar out of the way.
3) Remove the sway bar completely.
I removed the links on both sides. I’m a bit confused about the "zip tie" technique. Do I just secure the sway bar a little below the upper A-Arm with zip ties? Seems like this would prevent the sway bar from hitting the lower A-Arm guard, but it doesn’t seem to prevent the sway bar from moving up (on a bumpy trail) and hitting the upper A-Arm.
I’m probably missing something obvious, but any clarification on how to secure/zip tie would be appreciated!
Here is a photo of my disconnected front sway bar on the driver’s side…
Just upgraded to Bandit Shocks so I decided to unhook my front sway bar as well.
It seems there are a couple of recommended techniques…
1) Just disconnect one side. Most posts recommending this say to disconnect the lower link on one side and just zip tie it out of the way. Not sure if that is for a different model with different links.
2) Remove the links on both sides and zip tie the sway bar out of the way.
3) Remove the sway bar completely.
I removed the links on both sides. I’m a bit confused about the "zip tie" technique. Do I just secure the sway bar a little below the upper A-Arm with zip ties? Seems like this would prevent the sway bar from hitting the lower A-Arm guard, but it doesn’t seem to prevent the sway bar from moving up (on a bumpy trail) and hitting the upper A-Arm.
I’m probably missing something obvious, but any clarification on how to secure/zip tie would be appreciated!
Here is a photo of my disconnected front sway bar on the driver’s side…
Has less then 250 miles. Was out beating in some new trails went down a steep bank went to exit the other side it was mud for about 20ft then hard pack. Came out in awd spinning hit the hard pack and bang. Thought I broke an axle. No such luck. Pops and bangs 2wd or awd. Heading back to the dealer this week hoping for the best. Up until now it’s been awesome. Hope they cover it.
So I have an ATV Guru Brush Guard on the way (cant wait for it) and I was about to order a mount for the 50" Denali Plow that I allreay have. On Moto Alliance’s website they say some drilling may be required for certain bumpers. (they specificly mention Polaris’ Extreme Duty Front Bumper).
So my question is; is anyone running this setup? Will I have to drill the plow mount? Thanks everyone.
Anyone bought a 50" Fox Edition yet? How does it compare to a standard 50" Rzr 900? Polaris’ literature says that the shocks use "internal bypass technology". Does that mean the 2.0 Fox Edition shocks on the 50" Fox Edition are the same type of shock as the larger 2.5 and 3.0 Fox Edition internal bypass shocks used on the XP 1000 Fox Edition?
I have an XP 1000 Fox Edition, and the suspension is fantastic. I also have a 50" 900 Trail, and the suspension is not so fantastic. I am thinking of upgrading my 50" 900 Trail to a 50" Fox Edition, but would like to hear from someone that has driven one, or who owns one before I make the change.
