My brothers mud bike is a 2009 50" Rzr. After swapping a used master cylinder, I can’t get the brakes to bleed. Question 1 is how do I troubleshoot the master cylinder. Question2 is after using my Mityvac I can’t get any fluid to dra from the master cylinder. I would appreciate any useful ideas.
Anyone have an idea ? Instrument panel shows two dots instead of He for high gear, owners manual said between gears but appears to be working correctly .
Getting ready to pull my engine (2009 800 EFI) to get it rebuilt from the crank up. Due to inexperience and stupidity I created about a $2500 mistake. I was doing a top end rebuild due to the dirt down the intake history that so many have had. Anyway, as I was putting cylinders back on the engine, per D-Ray’s you tube series, I was putting wrist pins in and all seemed good until I turned the key and heard the dreaded noise that I never want to hear again. I thought a clip had popped out and maybe the wrist pin came out but upon dis-assembly the clips were perfectly seated. Problem was that the front cylinder connecting rod had slid out of the aligned position and I only put the pin in the piston, hence the terrible sound. Scored cylinder, cracked piston, bent exhaust valve which is all is all pretty much an easy fix except that I also have egg shaped connecting rod hole which means new crank and pretty much the bottom end as well. local mechanic says head is not damaged and rebuildable but doesn’t want to tackle the lower end because he doesn’t have the correct Polaris tools and the close bearing/crank tolerances. I have estimate from Hy-Tech (utvrebuilds.com) in Arizona for $2400 plus $100 return shipping with a 6 month warranty, just wondering if there is a good place in northern Michigan that anyone knows about that can do the job?
Getting ready to pull my engine (2009 800 EFI) to get it rebuilt from the crank up. Due to inexperience and stupidity I created about a $2500 mistake. I was doing a top end rebuild due to the dirt down the intake history that so many have had. Anyway, as I was putting cylinders back on the engine, per D-Ray’s you tube series, I was putting wrist pins in and all seemed good until I turned the key and heard the dreaded noise that I never want to hear again. I thought a clip had popped out and maybe the wrist pin came out but upon dis-assembly the clips were perfectly seated. Problem was that the front cylinder connecting rod had slid out of the aligned position and I only put the pin in the piston, hence the terrible sound. Scored cylinder, cracked piston, bent exhaust valve which is all is all pretty much an easy fix except that I also have egg shaped connecting rod hole which means new crank and pretty much the bottom end as well. local mechanic says head is not damaged and rebuildable but doesn’t want to tackle the lower end because he doesn’t have the correct Polaris tools and the close bearing/crank tolerances. I have estimate from Hy-Tech (utvrebuilds.com) in Arizona for $2400 plus $100 return shipping with a 6 month warranty, just wondering if there is a good place in northern Michigan that anyone knows about that can do the job?
I have a 2008 RZR 800 and when I turn my key on the pump primes for 1/2 second then the relay clicks, I will start the RZR and it idles like garbage, If i rev it up high it will run better…. I havent checked the fuel pressure yet but Just looking at where to start. I talked to a buddy who has a 09 RZR and his pump primes for 2-3 Seconds…. Mine almost seems like the relay is killing the power before it primes
Need to know what a 2014 800 eps trail with 159 miles and 4 year extended warranty is realistically worth. I’m looking at 1 and need to know what a fair price is.
Currently installing power steering on my 2011 800 50". I notice with the unit in place it will be real hard to get to the factory fuse block. Has anyone relocated the fuse block for easier access to the fuses. I am also planning on getting my power from the winch contactor or should I go to the battery as the instructions say?
I recently bought a 20 inch bar that has the bottom mounts on it not the side and was wondering if anyone has any mounts they’ve used to mount them under the windshield. I know the mounts will probably fit on that small section of plastic above the hood but didn’t know if it would bend it/break it. Pictures would help thanks in advance!
I recently bought a 20 inch bar that has the bottom mounts on it not the side and was wondering if anyone has any mounts they’ve used to mount them under the windshield. I know the mounts will probably fit on that small section of plastic above the hood but didn’t know if it would bend it/break it. Pictures would help thanks in advance!
Just got my 2" spacers in.. Went to put them on and a 17 mm fits the nuts but won’t fit in the spacers itself to tighten it down. Should I just grind the socket down? Or is there a special tool for these?
