Hi new to the forums and the rzr 800.

1st my machine is a 2008 800efi.

Add ons are. Yoshimura full exhaust and S&s air intake system. Also installed a dynatek fs ignition system.

Before air intake and ignition the bike came with pipe installed. There were no real running issues.

After install of intake and ignition the motor misses between 4k to 4500rpm. When you hop on the gas it runs good. No issues.

Any ideas? Does the ignition need to be mapped for this set up (it’s factory setting now)

2010 stock 800. Installed a winch several years ago, and had no problems. Recently purchased a module to make the winch work with a wireless remote. During the install, I must have touched wires briefly, as the winch turned on for a split second.
Didn’t think much about it, and finished the install. Then I discovered the bike was TOTALLY dead, electrically. Battery is good, triple checked cables, all tight. Checked each of the fuses, all good.
Disconnected the winch leads to the battery, just in case it was something down that line causing problems. no change.
Called the mechanic, and he was at a loss.
Any ideas?

Thanks in advance….

i got it out but it was a real bugger with that plastic clutch piece still attached to engine side.. how do i get the clutch off the engine crank?

2008 rzr 800

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i got it out but it was a real bugger with that plastic clutch piece still attached to engine side.. how do i get the clutch off the engine crank?

2008 rzr 800

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Hi guys,
I’m currently in the last stages of doing the DragonFire 857cc big bore (kit #DFR-2PR85BB) on my 2012 800. I snapped one of the 85mm piston rings today and I need this machine back together by Wednesday. I can call DragonFire and hope they overnight a set of rings, or does anyone know if I can use any 85mm piston ring??? I’m located in NY so anything overnighted would be cutting it close. Please help, any info or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. My annual trip to Hatfield-McCoys depends on getting this motor back together!!!

on my local classifieds i see stock RzR S suspension for sale on there a fair bit for cheap, I am wondering If i can do the S conversion with all take off parts from the S. I already have an S rack installed for my forward a arms. I would buy each piece as they come up for sale until I have everything (Shocks, Axles, A arms) but will they all fit?

recently removed the motor on my 08 800 rzr to change the trans and rear diff, labeled all plugs except the injector plugs. question is does it matter which way they plug back in?

recently removed the motor on my 08 800 rzr to change the trans and rear diff, labeled all plugs except the injector plugs. question is does it matter which way they plug back in?

Just wanted to alert my RZR brethren to a possible it-could-happen-to-you situation with aftermarket parking brakes.

I have the common lever type parking brake that pushes on the pedal and locks the brakes. I could name the manufacturer, but it probably has more to do with the RZR brakes and the laws of physics than the aftermarket brake. I have relied on this brake in all kinds of situations to avoid getting the transmission stuck in park.

On a trip last week, I had the RZR loaded on the trailer for moving camp the next day, and while the tow vehicle was on level ground, the trailer was slightly down hill at the rear. I had the parking brake actuated, but left the transmission in N. In the middle of the night we hear all this crashing and feel the camper pitching and bucking. We thought we were goners, and I pulled my pistol. No neighbors and not a soul around for miles to hear all the yelling that ensued.

The RZR had rolled off the trailer! The brake lever was still in the locked (down) position as it should be.

I had changed fluid recently and bled the brakes, so I know there was not air in the system. I actually got air out from the factory and the brakes worked better than ever. There was no fluid loss and the reservoir was still full to the line. The brakes work perfectly when riding and stop on a dime when called upon to do so.

The only thing I can think of is that the temperature difference from sunset with hot brakes (85 deg) to 3AM (45 degrees) could have allowed the fluid to contract and allow the release. I have also not been a big fan of how the brake lever causes the dash to flex and maybe that gave up a little flex during the night. Maybe a combination.

Then again, maybe the master cylinder is leaking internally and there is a limit to how long it will hold pressure.

I won’t make this mistake again. I’ll either put it in park and risk it getting stuck, block a tire, or get it tied down for transport.

BTW, does anyone know of an aftermarket cable actuated emergency brake? I’m just waiting for a brake failure going down a steep hill with nothing but a hydraulic backup.:scared2: