Looking for suggestions on a set of speakers that I can use just for IPOD. Also any recommendations on fire extinguishers?

To start off its a 2011 rzr walker evans edition, Machine was running great when it was parked and it sit for about a week and decided to go take a ride.Went to start machine and everything turn on like it should except the fuel pump will not prime until you put the key to the start position with out touching the brake, the fuel pump wont actuate at all if i touch the brake though. I replaced the brake switch, starter solinoid, battery and key switch cause those are all common problems. While doing research ive seen people with the same problems and it was due to a bad ground but I cant find what they are grounding. This is one of the weirdest problem that ive seen in a rzr. Also the gear indicator doesn’t come on until I press the brake and turn to key to the start position but will go back off after 10 seconds.

This answer has probably been answered already but ive searched all over the forum and cant find a solution. Thx in advance

Hey everyone, I’m new to the RZR scene and haven’t really touched anything on this since I bought it last year. I already did a search on the forum and on Google. Couldn’t really find anything similar to my issue. Please help! Glamis by Thursday is the goal!!

I recently just did the "S" conversion from SATV, amp install, 30 In light bar, thoroughly cleaned, filled coolant in reservoir, changed all fluids, bleed the breaks and a new battery. Went to start it up and noticed that it smelt a little funny for a minute, then it felt super hot.
The fan also came on for about 20 seconds and went off.
Ran fine before the Intake mod I did.

My questions are, the new filter is a Uni coming out of the bed. (Would this cause it to run lean/hot?)

Also, figured I’d check the Circuit breaker under the dash and that seemed fine. I don’t here any sounds from the radiator or cooling system, water in radiator and reservoir are full. When fan is on it spins fine and immediately cools the area, but just shuts off after about 20 seconds. Also feels like it misses a lil bit when cold. (Kind of like a 2 stroke warming up.) Once the throttle is hit a few times it screams and all feels right except the heat coming from it.

Any Kind of Idea what would be causing this overheating issue? I also have a check engine light and "wrench" icon on the cluster but only for about 5 seconds then it goes away after it’s on.

I changed my water pump seal 2500 miles ago because it was weeping out the hole. Cleaned the shaft and installed new seal. I also vented the hole to prevent crap from getting back in. After several months and many miles, all good. However, my dad borrowed it and when I checked it out when I got it back, I noticed there was coolant in the vent tube and the level was half way down in the reservoir bottle. I drained the vent line and topped up the bottle. I have now ran it for a couple of weeks. After 100 hard miles it has not leaked anymore out the weep hole. What would cause coolant to get through the seal, but then stop leaking. The only thing I could think of, was my old man might have been shutting it off hot and not letting the fan cool it first. Could that cause the seal to leak? Suggestions please.

I changed my water pump seal 2500 miles ago because it was weeping out the hole. Cleaned the shaft and installed new seal. I also vented the hole to prevent crap from getting back in. After several months and many miles, all good. However, my dad borrowed it and when I checked it out when I got it back, I noticed there was coolant in the vent tube and the level was half way down in the reservoir bottle. I drained the vent line and topped up the bottle. I have now ran it for a couple of weeks. After 100 hard miles it has not leaked anymore out the weep hole. What would cause coolant to get through the seal, but then stop leaking. The only thing I could think of, was my old man might have been shutting it off hot and not letting the fan cool it first. Could that cause the seal to leak? Suggestions please.

Howdy,

I’m hoping this problem has been encountered by others and hopefully it’s not too expensive of a fix.

Purchased a used 2010 RZR800 (low mileage, minimum wear) this past spring and have had no issues at all until a recent trip to a desert mountain in Arizona. Heading downhill on a minor grade, was unable to get the engine to stick in any gear, had to coast to camp in neutral. Upon return to camp, the shifter would only go from park to reverse, completely locked from getting to neutral, low or high gear.

Any thoughts, ideas or any out there who’ve experienced this issue? Trying to get an idea of what I’m looking at and where to start.

Thank you guys in advance!

~Kevin

my lifters collapse is i let the machine set for any length of time any cure other than replacing them or how hard is it to change the lifters sometimes it takes quite a while for them to pump back up

I have a 2013 rzr 800 50" I bought last year, ever since I got it seemed like it had a low cranking amp battery, would turn over once then pause for a few seconds and turn over faster and fire up. About 2 weeks ago I put a brand new Polaris battery in it and it fired right up for abouthe a week no problem then right back to the same thing turns over once then nothing for a few seconds then fires… did this for about a week then left me stranded it would turn over once then just click. figured I had a charging issue so checked all the connections, cleaned and sanded ever connector on the charging system, recharged the battery over night and put it all back together now it won’t turn over at all, turns once then clicks like the battery is dead even while hooked up to the jump pack. Any one have any ideas what may be wrong or where to start looking?

Got 09 standard with two inch lift and makin trax springs.Whats a good shock to go with these springs?

Pulled the front diff last night because water was getting in it, and I couldn’t figure out how. Well I figured it out. The metal cup seals are gone. I had pieces of them resting in between the CV shafts. I don’t know how they could have gotten broken off, but they did.

So now the million $$ question. How do I fix those without buying new output hubs ?