has anyone used the R2C air filter? need to change my stock, want to go to either the Polaris Donaldson or R2C because it can be serviced. just want to make sure it’s as good as they say unlike K&N.

I was pulling my rzr off the trailer when it just shut off today. The eps light came on and it threw the codes 84 and 190. The definition of the codes doesn’t give much as to what it could be.

I did find that if I bypass the efi relay that the machine would run normally and even the CEL light would turn off. I tried swapping the relays around to see if it was just a bad relay and that is not the case.

Curious if anyone else has had a similar issue. It’s going in to the dealer tomorrow but I have no idea what it could be besides just a fried ecu.

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My xp1000 backfires a lot when coming off of full throttle really fast. One loud POP! I always run premium fuel. My spark arrestor screen blew out recently too if that makes a difference. Any ideas?

My xp1000 backfires a lot when coming off of full throttle really fast. One loud POP! I always run premium fuel. My spark arrestor screen blew out recently too if that makes a difference. Any ideas?

I have been doing alot of flow testing for the last 6 months with both 900 and 1000 cylinder heads. There is alot of stuff about them that shops are not doing and telling people. Alot of shops like to keep there flow #’s secret, and alot just say we have gotten huge flow #’s. (that makes me wonder if they have a flow bench at all).I am the type of person that wants to see flow #’s, not "we are getting massive air flow". One problem out there, that may keep shops from posting flow #’s is that flow benches vary from one to another. If they are not being calibrated regularly, they will vary. Also a superflow bench may show higher #’s than my bench or other benches. But what it all comes down to is the percentage of gain from the stock flow #’s to the finished ported #’s. I have looked at a number of shops port jobs, and ones that have claimed massive air, and most of the shops have not done a complete chamber rework. This is particularly important on a 1000 head because the people over at Polaris, in their infinite wisdom, made the 1000 heads chamber smaller than the 900 head, shrouding the airflow. Without doing the chamber work, your giving up an average of 10 to 12 CFM. On a 2 cylinder motor, that can be at least 2.5 HP plus.
So here are the flow #’S ON MY bench from stock port,(which are pretty good), to ported intake port, to ported intake with full chamber work.

stock at 28 in water
.100 lift– 91 cfm
.150 lift– 133.5 cfm
.200 " — 166 cfm
.250 "— 198 cfm
.300 lift– 230 cfm
.350 " — 258 cfm
.400 " — 271 cfm
.450 " — 280 cfm
.500 lift— 287 cfm

Ported intake
.100 lift — 98 cfm
.150 lift—145 cfm
.200 " —- 179 cfm
.250 " — 211 cfm
.300 " — 243 cfm
.350 " — 272 cfm
.400 " — 294 cfm
.450 " — 305 cfm
.500 lift — 308 cfm

Ported intake with chamber rework
.100 lift — 107 cfm
.150 lift —158.5 cfm
.200 lift —191 cfm
.250 lift —223 cfm
.300 " —-254 cfm
.350 " —-278 cfm
.400 " —-301 cfm
.450 " —-315 cfm
.500 lift —323 cfm

So as you can see, reworking the chambers in the right way, greatly improves
low lift flow up to .300 lift, (better low lift air flow increases both torque and HP) and increases high lift CFM. So look at your ported cylinder heads, and if the chamber is just polished without any other work done to it, you are not getting the massive air flow #’s you thought.

Exhaust flow #’s are very important also, because a weak exhaust will keep a motor from RPM ing and making top end power. Discounting the exhaust, which some shops do, (just polishing and making it look good) will keep it from making those big power #’s, especially on a turbo motor. Exhaust flow is really important on a turbo motor, the more the better!!. The 1000 head has smaller exhaust valves than the 900 head. (about .125 thousands smaller). So porting on the exhaust is very important. I am in the process of getting a few different size exhaust valves made to have a whole thread on Exhaust flow #’s from stock to different oversized valves here in a month or so. This should be of great interest to the turbo guys, because better exhaust means faster it gets on boost, and more manageable power with less boost

I have somehow managed to tear up a cam chain guide, I need to know how deep I am going to need to go to replace it

I have somehow managed to tear up a cam chain guide, I need to know how deep I am going to need to go to replace it

I was changing all the fluids today, and found that the fill bolt on the front dif. Is stripped.
The bad part was I drained it first, and then couldn’t get the fill bolt off.
I was finally able to remove the vent tube and fitting on the top and fill it from there.
The bolt is still in there and stripped……has anyone ran into this before?
It seems the bolt material is extremely soft.
If you have had this happen, what was the easiest way to remove it, and did you use the same factory bolt again, or switch to something else?

So I am at a complete loss as to what is really going on with my Rzr so I am reaching out to the gurus that dwell on this site. I have a 2015 Rzr xp1k and recently while it was in a buddy’s garage it started making a fast ticking noise. They are not very automotive so they called me and said I needed to come check it out asap. When I got there I started to feel around the motor and finally figured out it was the throttle bodies clicking. No idea what they are doing but when you turn the key on it quits. Finally I unhooked the battery and left it unhooked for a few hours. When I hooked it back up it would not shut off. Not the dash blinks very rapidly intermiedetly and the throttle bodies click and then the gauge reads LO then a number.

Can anyone give me an idea as to what to do. I am at a complete loss!

Here is a photo of the dash. Attachment 143376

Attached Thumbnails

 

I have 2014 XP 1000 4 seater. I’ve noticed that some people do not run a clutch cover in the dunes. Is this ok or is this not such a good idea?