i have finally solved my gear location issue on my son’s 2007 trx90 thanks to this forum, particularly moose wagon and shadetree. i got down to the clutch but then i did not have a castellated nut tool so i took it down to the local mom/pop shop and they loosened the nut for me. while there, i told them my problem, what needed to be done to repair it, and they did just that. the shop took off the shift arm, straightened it, and then re-installed it. cost me $40. it shifts very firm right now, maybe indicating the clutch needs to be adjusted?

next issue is with same 2007 trx90. i thoroughly soaked the carb in yamaha carb cleaner, blew out all holes with compressed air, used a welder’s wire cleaners to pass through all holes, then re-assembled it. it is now idling better than before but loads up/bogs down on full throttle, not fully reaching max rpms. there is no mixture screw adjustment on this carb, only idle. the needle cannot be adjusted up or down, it is fixed as well. the only thing different between before i removed it and then re-installed it is the gasket between the carb and the intake. it fell apart so i cut another one out of a brown gasket material making sure the intake opening was the same diameter. not sure this has anything to do with it. would appreciate your input.

last issue, for now, is with 1987 honda trx 125. it was starting using the electric start button but now i only hear clicking from the solenoid. i substituted a different solenoid(from honda 300 fourtrax) from a known working unit and it did the same thing. put the ‘suspect’ unit on the known working atv and it is functioning properly. don’t know what else might be the issue. starter was working as it should previously.

For about a year, my ATV would intermittently crank but not start. I discovered that quickly switching the kill switch back and forth repeatedly from ‘run’ to ‘kill’ would cause the engine to hit once or twice, and often it would eventually catch and start, after about 30 seconds. Also, whenever it would hit, it would only hit when i moved OFF of the ‘run’ position into the ‘kill’ position.

I disconnected the switch assembly, and ended up cutting the two wires free and then just tying them together. Same condition… engine cranks while they are tied together, but wont start… if i remove them and touch them back together while i am holding the start button, the engine will sometimes hit, and it only hits at the moment they are separated.

Disconnected the wiring harness and checked voltages.

Wiring Diagram

In that diagram, at the bottom left corner is a "Starter + Engine Stop switch" box. The kill switch is labelled "IG2" and is a Bl/W wire that runs up to the CDI unit. There appears to be a diode (?) on the line.

With the key in the on position, and the two wires from the kill switch tied together:

Measuring from G (green) to Bl/W (black/white) while the start button is NOT being pressed, i get 12.3 volts.

When i press the start button, the voltage immediately drops below 11 volts.

The service manual only has this to say about inspecting these connections:

Test ignition switch and engine stop switch: (Turn ignition switch to ON and the engine stop switch to RUN) – Bl/W to G – Battery voltage should register.

According to that, i should be seeing the battery voltage when the start button isn’t being pressed, which i am.

When the start button is pressed, the voltage shouldn’t drop like that should it? Does the fact that it only hits when the wires are separated point to anything? The wiring diagram shows what i believe to be a diode on the wire… could this have something to do with it?

Thanks for any help!!

I ordered a new fuel selector switch and lost the screw that holds it in. I have tried several different screws but without the original screw I cannot go buy another. If someone could direct me to the size of the screw so I can go get it from Home Depot or somewhere like that. I don’t want to spend $20 on another fuel selector switch.

I did look all over the service manual but could not find it in there either.

Thanks!

This is my first post here. Just picked up a 2002 Honda foreman rubicon to use at the duck lease. I noticed the water pump was leaking which seems to be a common problem so I went ahead and ordered new seals because the one on there looked a little melted. The question I have is how to tell if the water pump is circulating coolant? I would assume this would also tell me if my temp sensor is working also (I live in Texas normally and 90 during the day) Figured I’d try to re-seal and test before dropping money on a water pump.

This is my first post here. Just picked up a 2002 Honda foreman rubicon to use at the duck lease. I noticed the water pump was leaking which seems to be a common problem so I went ahead and ordered new seals because the one on there looked a little melted. The question I have is how to tell if the water pump is circulating coolant? I would assume this would also tell me if my temp sensor is working also (I live in Texas normally and 90 during the day) Figured I’d try to re-seal and test before dropping money on a water pump.

Hi all, total new guy here. Just picked up a 1999 Fourtrax 300 4×4 in trade for an old boat I had laying around not being used. I was told the motor smoked but the machine ran and drove great, and also needed a starter. After replacing the starter, the motor fired right up, idles great, has excellent power, and will do a wheelie with my 225 pounds on it, but smokes like a fog machine. I mean its pretty bad. It burned 2 quarts of oil in the two hours I rode it on day one (never let it run dry, kept topping it off).

I’m assuming that this thing needs at a minimum a top end gasket kit, rings, and a hone. Possibly bored and oversized piston job too. Question is is it even possible for this thing to burn that much oil that fast? Or am I looking at more problems? Not a lot of money going around to throw at this thing right now.

Oh also must mention, although this is my first atv, and I’ve never worked on this type of engine before, I am a professional ASE certified auto mechanic for a living, so I’m not afraid to get my hands dirty.

Hi all, total new guy here. Just picked up a 1999 Fourtrax 300 4×4 in trade for an old boat I had laying around not being used. I was told the motor smoked but the machine ran and drove great, and also needed a starter. After replacing the starter, the motor fired right up, idles great, has excellent power, and will do a wheelie with my 225 pounds on it, but smokes like a fog machine. I mean its pretty bad. It burned 2 quarts of oil in the two hours I rode it on day one (never let it run dry, kept topping it off).

I’m assuming that this thing needs at a minimum a top end gasket kit, rings, and a hone. Possibly bored and oversized piston job too. Question is is it even possible for this thing to burn that much oil that fast? Or am I looking at more problems? Not a lot of money going around to throw at this thing right now.

Oh also must mention, although this is my first atv, and I’ve never worked on this type of engine before, I am a professional ASE certified auto mechanic for a living, so I’m not afraid to get my hands dirty.

I have a ’99 400ex (with reverse) that I bought off of my brother as a project. He had it sitting in my parents garage for a couple years. I brought it home and put it all back together. Everything is pretty much ready to go, except…

I have no power at the handlebars (ie headlights, neutral light, start button ect) UNLESS the bike is running. Then everything works as it should. I have power going into the ignition switch and its working. Even tried a new ignition, new battery and a new starter solenoid. The fuse is good. I’m out of ideas. I can’t figure out why I have power when the bike is running but nothing when it is off. It starts right up by crossing the solenoid terminals and will run all day.

Any help would be appreciated! Thanks

hey guys, i got 95 Trx 200D the manual doesnt say where the grease fittings are located? can anyone help me ?

I can shift up from first gear and all the way back down to first gear but it won’t shift down to neutral.