So I’m having trouble with my 99 trx300. When I push the throttle it runs fine up to half way then just past half it starts to like surge. It will sputter then run fine then sputter then run fine etc…. I have taken the carb apart and looked at the Jets they both look Clean and clear. Any ideas? I’m about to pull my hair out.
Thanks Travis
Hi I’m new here and I realy do not know much on the mechanical side. I have a 2014 Rubicon that started idling high and smoking like a mosquito fogger. I took it to the shop and after waiting 2 weeks for them to get to it they call today and tell me I have mud in my engine? I’m the only one that has ever driven it and it has never even been close to being submerged. They pulled the manual start rope and it will not retract. I asked him how it could have gotten in there and he told me through the exhaust. I told him no way it never even been close. Then he told me the crankcase has a weep hole on the bottom and the mud could have gotten packed in from there? How the heck could it keep water out if that is the case? He told me the motor and transmission would need replaced. Is this possible or do I need to seek a 2nd opinion? This is the Honda dealership. Oh ya and the oil looks clean. Thanks
Got a 07 rubicon. It will go Inot low and reverse and read on display. When I shift into drive I get double dash. It will stay in limp mode. D1 d2 and esp work in low. Please help!!!!
Hi to the group. I am a new member from New Zealand.
I have a Honda TRX350 FM2 code G152 thought to be 2002.
Problem just stopped dead. No spark/HT. No Honda dealer near me. I downloaded some fault finding instructions.
Checked the rectifier, seems OK. checked alternator for continuity OK, checked the wiring. I have full battery voltage at the two big wires blue/yellow and the green/white terminals in the CDI. checking The ignition pulse generator, I get a pulse of .22volts ac on a Fluke 73 multimeter. I was looking for a peak of .7volt but my meter will not read peak volts. Can I assume the CDI is faulty. Can I test the CDI. A possible clue as I used the quad not often and the battery went open circuit but always started on pull cord so was thinking that high voltage spike without the battery could have *&*R%#%&* the CDI. The cdi is the one that the plug goes on the top and does not have the connections on the side. It is stamped HN 01.
Thanks in advance Chareley6 from Auckland
Hello all, I have a 1997 foreman 400 with no spark. I have been reading some post and I am looking for the voltage regulator, the manual shows it in the battery box area but i do not find it there. If someone has a little better information i would be thankful.
I picked up a 2005 rincon 650 4×4 looking for the repair manual and service manual? Guy said it doesn’t run havent had time to mess with it yet?:wacko:
Ok so if anyone saw my other thread on the oiling issues of this quad, my upper valvetrain was starved of oil due to an oversight of o-rings on the dowl tubes between the oil pump and front cover. As a precaution, I ordered new valve seals, and lash adjusters and installed them, pulled the cylinder and inspected my new piston from last year. All looked good but i did notice a couple minor scratches. a quick hone, lots of oil and back together she went. torqued everything down and checked valve clearance. Pulled the choke, and it fired up instantly. Let it warm up and burned off all the excess oil that was on the exhaust and head. drove it up and down the driveway and shut it down to cool off.
As the clouds rolled in for a potential storm, i went to fire it up and bring it in.. and normally you just hit the start button and off she would go, but i had to feather the throttle. Got it running, and it wouldnt idle. had to keep feathering the throttle. got it inside and checked compression. 90 psi?? loosened the valves substantially, and get it up to 160-175 psi. Toss the valve cover back on, it fires instantly, warms up, shut it down, same thing, low compression. What gives? I did not re-seat the valves when i did the stem seals, although i would think i would get a consistant low reading??
I guess I will pull the head and re-grind the valves. Its just weird how it was running fine, i shut it down, then 5-10 minutes later it acted up. Any ideas?
Need to replace the rear bearings, I have never done this and the manual was not to helpful! Any insight is appreciated, also what kinda damage should I look for ? I have read about the bearing carriers getting bent, is this true ?
Hey everyone, I just finished putting the exhaust on my ol ladies 07 rancher 420 and when I fired it up to test it everything went fine until I have it some throttle, when I push the throttle in really slow it runs/sounds fine, but when I push the throttle in fast it sounds like it’s bogging down and almost stalling before it revs up, if anyone has any ideas on what it could be please let me know.
Buddy brought me a 185S ATC he got for FREE from a co-worker. It starts up and runs, but smokes like a locomotive. That’s to be expected from a free project wheeler, right?
Before he brought it to me he took off the original carb and threw it away….:ph34r: and put a cheap ebay new carb on it. He told me it would run but wouldn’t idle so I told him to bring it and let me look at it.
First thing I had to do was put an air cleaner on it. He had taken all of that off and was just running it with an open carb throat.:ph34r:
So I got the airbox from him and rigged up a Jeep radiator hose to run between carb and airbox, and put a new air filter element on it.
If I idle it WAY up it will stay running most of the time, but still dies from time to time. I thought there might be a leak where the carb attaches to the head, but sprayed starter fluid around with it running and heard no change.
Right now it’s idled up higher than it should be. Am I missing something here or can I blame this on the cheap chinese carb? Seriously, it was like $35 new on ebay…..
