Alright guys i feel pretty stupid on this one. I bought a double bearing carrier after mine went bad.
I was not thinking, but the swing arm is "RPM" which must have a larger diameter carrier housing?
I am not sure what to do, I greased the carrier already and its about a 1/4" or 1/5" too small in diameter in the swing arm.:frown:
Alright guys i feel pretty stupid on this one. I bought a double bearing carrier after mine went bad.
I was not thinking, but the swing arm is "RPM" which must have a larger diameter carrier housing?
I am not sure what to do, I greased the carrier already and its about a 1/4" or 1/5" too small in diameter in the swing arm.:frown:
My 2001 honda 450 E/S just stopped and wont start,
When you switch ignition on the neutral light comes on but so does the reverse light but its in neutral as you can move it back and forth, its like it thinks its in reverse gear …The E/S is not going up or down gears either, not selecting, anyone able to help please
My 2001 honda 450 E/S just stopped and wont start,
When you switch ignition on the neutral light comes on but so does the reverse light but its in neutral as you can move it back and forth, its like it thinks its in reverse gear …The E/S is not going up or down gears either, not selecting, anyone able to help please
So just a quick question. A good friend of mine has an 07 420 4×4. It won’t crank and his mechanic said it skipped time. He’s wanting to get rid of it did due to family reasons. I don’t know much more about what it will or won’t due as far as starting. It will turn over. He only wants $1000 for it. I have an 08 420 and all parts should interchange so I could always use it for parts? Sound like a good deal. He’s taken good care of it and never snorkeled or sunk it. His mechanic also said it was about a $500 fix. Sound about right? Any input is appreciated. Thanks in advance!!
Having a little trouble with my tranny…or so I think it’s the tranny.. This only happens in second gear and it’s making a clunk/grinding kinda noise…it’s like it’s In between gears maybe…but funny thing is you take the weight off the rear diff and the noise isn’t present. It’s a 2wd bike…just replaced bevel gear and u-joint…all the bearings in rear diff. I’ve heard this noise twice before…but now it seems to be present all the time now in 2nd gear…it seems to slip a little at the same time as the grinding and clinking is going on…
Bought it used a few years ago and then over the winter had a bearing die on me. Tore it apart to change the bearing on the rear axle, and noticed it was written in paint marker on the axle tube and hub "Foreman".
That being said, what other rear diffs share parts with the Rubicon of that vintage? Reason I ask, is now I need a rear axle shaft as I spun a hub..Local honda dealer doesn’t have one in stock but can order next day BUT if it’s the wrong one, I’m stuck with some restocking prices, blah blah blah.
:icon_cussing:i can’t turn the idle knob.is it bent? Does that happen alot? Can it be fixed without removing the tank? The reason for asking is,thanks to trx2five0, I figured out that I had it way to lean. New to the hole atv scene. It’s a 1992 Honda trx250x with a stage 1 hot cams. Currently looking for a used slip on exhaust muffler. Also looking for headlight.
I have a 2004 Honda foreman es with a 450 engine. Starts fine when cold. After it warms up, it begins to have a ticking sound. When the ticking begins, a loss of power seems to happen as well. Sometimes it will not restart very easy when the engine is hot or warm. When the engine is revved up, it will have bluish smoke (oil) in the exhaust. Sometimes it will back fire as well. gut tells me piston and ring job? What’s the ticking? Timing chain appeared to be snug and the valves were just slightly out of adjustment. My uncle and I pulled the front cover off of the motor because I had been told a tensioner could be the ticking issue. "appeared" to be fine, just looking at it. What do y’all think?
My 2000 Rancher 350 FE has a knob on the handlebar for controlling the fuel enrichment valve. You pull the knob out to get more fuel when starting the engine in cold temperatures. When I let go of the knob, it goes back in by itself and shuts off fuel enrichment. Is this normal? It has worked like this since I bought it in 2007. I have to hold the knob out while starting until it warms up a little bit, then I can let go of it and it will retract. It’s kind of a nuisance to have to hold the knob out while it warms up, but as far as I know, that could be normal. If it is supposed to stay out until pushed back in, what adjustment do I need to make for it to act that way?
