Category Archives: Repair & Maintenance

2015 Rubicon Carbon Deposits

My 2015 Rubicon has 187 miles and 38 hours on it. I went to replace the spark plug with an Iridium NGK version and I noticed some black carbon deposits on the plug. I then wondered if the top of the cylinder might look the same and sure enough when I stuck a bore light down the hole it was caked in solid black.

Is this normal for such low mileage/hours? Is there anything to worry about? Is there a way for me to clean the cylinder? What would be causing this? I’ve been using good gas (87 Octane from Shell) and Honda oil.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Is my front differential Positrack? (89 350 fourtrax)

Hello.
Im the Canadian guy who thought he had a 92 but its the same as your american 89 model.

So have a 89 350 fourtrax. Previous owner said that water was getting into the rear differential and freezing in the winter. Seems to work fine in the summer. But before I drive it any furthur I want to Change the Oil and maybe change the Gasket. So im going to put SAE 80 oil in it.

The Parts guy at the dealer said that the front end needs to have a friction modifier put in with the oil or else it will wreck my positrack front end.

But my manual doesnt say anything about a friction modifier.

So which one is it?

Is my front differential Positrack? (89 350 fourtrax)

Hello.
Im the Canadian guy who thought he had a 92 but its the same as your american 89 model.

So have a 89 350 fourtrax. Previous owner said that water was getting into the rear differential and freezing in the winter. Seems to work fine in the summer. But before I drive it any furthur I want to Change the Oil and maybe change the Gasket. So im going to put SAE 80 oil in it.

The Parts guy at the dealer said that the front end needs to have a friction modifier put in with the oil or else it will wreck my positrack front end.

But my manual doesnt say anything about a friction modifier.

So which one is it?

Day one of two day first oil change, funny

So… I wanted to do my 1st service, skipping high dealer prices and not checking valves right away… Just going to Chan’s engine oil, filter for starters.

Go today and buy Honda genuine goodies get home, warmed up the 2015 TRX500FM1 drain oil, add new oil filter, add not one, but two full bottles of GN4 and hear abd remember… Yea I didn’t put the drain plug back in!

So back to the store to get more oil tomorrow… Thus two day oil change is in progress….

Thanks for reading and enjoy a chuckle at my expense 🙂

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Day one of two day first oil change, funny-20150918_125628.jpg
 

05 TRX450R hard to kick start

I am in need of some help I am working on a 05 TRX450R it will kick over but it will also lock the kick starter up to the point its like trying to kick of a big v-twin motor with out a decompression release. I’ve checked valve clearance and adjusted still giving me issues, wondering if the decompression valves had issues in the past with these things. Any input would be great. Been working on bikes and atv’s for 13 years and this is actually a first for me.

Thanks

Can flywheels go bad? Not charging TRX250

HI Guys,

I have been tinkering on this for a over a year now and really want to get it all back together and working properly. It’s a 1987 TRX250 quad, 2×4, and it’s not charging the battery. I am an electrician and have isolated the problem to the alternator. I have checked the original stator and it measured fine, about .5 ohms between yellow wires, but decided to change it anyway, result…same thing, only getting about 5-6VAC out of the yellow wires at 3000 or more RPM. The only other thing that I can think of is the flywheel with the magnets, either weak or broken under the shield. The machine starts and runs fine so I know the pulse section is good. When I got the machine, the starter was missing and the starter gears had teeth missing and had fallen inside the crankcase and the little bits of teeth had rolled around between the stator and flywheel gap, causing some little dents and scrapes on the inside of the flywheel. I can slide a screwdriver around the inside and feel 12 definite gaps in the magnets, which seems okay…but maybe not. ?? :unsure:

See pics…

Any thoughts??

Thanks all.

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Can flywheels go bad? Not charging TRX250-dscn5353.jpg
 

Can flywheels go bad? Not charging TRX250-dscn5356.jpg
 

300ex Axle Castle Nut Help

Hello,

I am new to this forum and hoping someone can help me out. I have an early 2000’s (pretty sure its an 01-03) Honda 300ex, it has an aftermarket extended axle but don’t know the manufacturer and can’t find any markings to indicate who may of built it.

I was riding and lost a Castle Nut for the axle and can’t find a new one that fits. Does anyone know of an axle manufacture who uses a 20mm fine thread axle nut on their axles.

I have been to two Honda dealers here in Pittsburgh with no luck. I have tried part # 90304-hm7-a10* which is a 20mm castle nut but the thread is not correct and won’t thread onto the axle.

Please if anyone has any ideas or leads it would be greatly appreciated.

Micah

Thrust washer: Chamfered side vs. flat side. How are you seeing this?

I’m well into my ’99 Recon rebuild and my transmission checks out completely. As I get to the part about the thrust washers, I know they are supposed to go a certain way as directed in my manual.

The issue I’m having is seeing which side is the chamfered side and which is the flat side. I’ve worked on other bikes and I have been able to feel a sharper edge and a duller edge. I feel no such difference on the thrust washers for the reverse idler.

I’m certain I got the washers on the mainshaft and countershaft on the same way they came off but a part of me wants to take it back apart so I can be sure, real sure. Are you guys using a magnifying glass or something to figure this out?

*edit* Just noticed the splined washers and snap rings have flat side and chamfered side too. Yeah, I need to figure this out…

Help?

First time posting, my son has a 400EX with a 440 kit and a Keihin FCR carb. After riding it for a period of time it sat in his mom’s garage for several years. He asked if I could revive it and I thought, how hard could it be? I found leaky valves so I removed the head and had a fresh valve job done. Upon reassembling it I realized it has an aftermarket cam. (Hot Cams) with EHR 8 inscribed between lobes. I have tried to time it using the stock timing instructions but to no avail. I cannot find any numbers to determine age. In hind sight I wish I had made note of the timing marks prior to disassembling
. My question is, would anyone know if I use the factory timing set up or does it require advancement at the cam gear?