Hello all my recon has been sitting for a couple years and now it won’t start. I have cleaned the carburetor and replaced the jets. I put it all back together and still will not start. The engine will fire with starter fluid but will not continue to run. Need suggestions. thanks in advance

My light blinks 9 times on a 07 Rancher 420 4×4 has since I got the bike never had any running issues. What does this mean ?

Read a lot on how to clean a gas tank water, vinegar, gas with bolts and nuts and shake it like hell. I can’t imagine water in a gas tank is a good thing. I emptied the old gas, removed the petcock, thinking bolts and gas is the way to go

On my ’96 Honda Foreman the parking brake lock lever doesn’t set the brake firm enough. On a steep hill the ATV will roll even with the brake locked.

I looked at all my manuals and tried to search the forums to no avail. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I have thought about trying to bend the lock lever, but this doesn’t seem like the proper solution.

Probably this horse has been beaten a million times, but I’m not seeing anything that fits the description of whats happening to me. When I first got this machine the clutch slipped pretty much all the time. I tore it down and found a warped steel plate in the clutch pack, replaced with EBC DRC6 clutch kit but was worried about the heavy spring tension so I put the original springs back in. Centrifugal clutch shows wear but still within specs. Machine works fine when up to operating temp but when cold will hardly pull itself. So I think well the clutch is still slipping. Teardown #2 new EBC DRC6 clutch kit with the heavy springs installed and better outer centrifugal clutch bell with not as much wear, but it still does it’s cold morning thing. Parts are in spec for wear but does anyone know what the new thickness of the clutch weight shoes is? Any help would be appreciated. Forgot, this an 87 model.

My father having trouble getting atv running thought it was the carb- but it seems all good. any suggestions?

So…my Honda Rancher is causing me fits. A few years back I forgot to drain the tank and run the carb out of gas before the season ended. Of course it wouldn’t start back up when I went out there to get it back out. So I pulled the carb out and cleaned it all up. While I was in there I cleaned the filter and junk out.

Well…it still ran like crap. I was super busy with work at the time so I just took it to Honda and let them screw with it. When I got it back all was well. Then it started dying on me when I wasn’t giving it gas. Otherwise it would run great. But the moment I let off the gas, most of the time it would die unless I saved it by juicing it a bit.

I’ve played with the idle speed on it but I’m thinking that it may be getting too much air or something. Is there an air/fuel mix screw somewhere that I could dial in a bit? I’m not too familiar with engines and carbs, but I know my motorcycle (also a Honda) has a air/fuel mix screw on it for tuning in the carb.

What say ye, Honda forum?

I have a 2000 Rancher that I had at the lease. Got to the very back of lease and rancher died. Could not get it started. When turning over it would back fire like a 22 rifle. After about 10 minutes it would start and run ruff. Could only go about 3mph for about 2 minutes then die again.

When I got the Rancher in the truck noticed a steady stream of gas coming out the overflow tube. Pretty sure carb needs a good cleaning. Do I need to replace the vacuum diaphragm? Also how can I get the float valve seat out, or do they come out?

todays ride. I managed to miss this log with the front end but the back end
fishtailed in to catch the log. rode it back to the truck, 45 KM,s between 40
and 60 KPH. another good reason to run radial tires. these are kenda bear
claws, HTR,s I suspect I got bent A arms. that rim was a lot worse and 30 blows with an axe got me home. any body got 1 or 2 back OEM aluminum
rims for a Rincon??
[img=http://s18.postimg.org/xv2mzunft/rincon_oowwweee.jpg]
how do you print screen

Picked up the bike back in the early part of the year. The PO had told me that he had gotten the top end worked on, but it still had a slight oil lead down the front on the exhaust side. That was then, this is the now – I had planned to replace the light switch harness to get the lights going again, along with fixing the front brake master cylinder. Since I needed to pull the plastic to get to the wiring harness I figured it would be a great time to also pull the rocker box cover and regasket so to speak to get the oil leak fixed. First thought something may be amiss is when I saw spare "open" holes in the rocker box – places I knew bolts should be. Taking my time working the bolts out, most came out pretty clean, some have aluminum or either heli-coil material in them. Area of concern #1. Area #2 was when I get to the bolts around the camshaft – the shorter of the 7mm bolts are there (these are the ones in between the sprocket and cam lobes), the longer or outer 7mm bolts (the 145mm ones from what I figure based on parts lists) are MIA! When I get the rocker box off, I find major area of concern #3 – there is significant damage at the inner bearing area (see photos) and the cam lobes look have an odd wear pattern. Here’s the questions – (1) Am I looking a replacement head and cam? Are they even in production anymore? (2) The 6mm bolts that have aluminum in the threads – do I need to be thinking about something like a heli-coil for those areas or how do I remedy? (3) Or do I just need to button it back together, get some OEM replacement 7mmX145 bolts and hope for the best? The bike was running ok – tended to be a little iffy on cold starts – just trying to figure the best course to take. Still have to do the wiring harness and front brakes…..

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