It started out by blowing the 30 amp fuse under the seat, I replaced it and it worked fine for a while now it quit again. I replaced the angle sensor, and the battery. I’ve narrowed it down to the 15 amp light fuse but what puzzles me is I can take the negative battery cable off and I’m getting 11 volts from the negative battery post to the disconnected negative cable. It will not drain the battery and I have every connector disconnected. Has anyone experienced this or know what else I can do?

It started out by blowing the 30 amp fuse under the seat, I replaced it and it worked fine for a while now it quit again. I replaced the angle sensor, and the battery. I’ve narrowed it down to the 15 amp light fuse but what puzzles me is I can take the negative battery cable off and I’m getting 11 volts from the negative battery post to the disconnected negative cable. It will not drain the battery and I have every connector disconnected. Has anyone experienced this or know what else I can do?

when i pulled (l) side case the shifter shaft came w it. no biggie,?, i thought put all back together now it wont shift. according to manual to remove the (r) sidecase trans has to b in neutral. trans was in (r) when i started this project i believe. any ideas or help here would of great assistance . thanks

Hey guys I’m new to the form. I have a 2007 foreman 500 es an I have been having electrical problems a lot. So 1st nothing on my handle bar shifter would work,light, start button nothing but the shift up an down ( sucks when u find this out at night u have no lights). So I bought the handle bar shifter, worked for maybe 2 weeks great. Then I went to load my bike to go riding an I had no screen/spidomitor an nothing on the handle bars AGAIN pissed off now, checked all fuses fine, so I tore it apart an found a wire has melted thew the harnes so I bought a whole new wire harnes hope this fixes the problem. Has anyone else had this problem or know anything else about it? If so please please help thanks guys ride safe have fun

Where is this thing?

Ok guys I need some help I have a 1998 Honda Fourtrax 300 2×4 that won’t crank to save my life it will just constantly turn over it has good fuel and good spark I removed the carb and it was spotless I cleaned it anyway checked for spark it had a good spark but I changed the plug anyway as well the on off switch is in the run position and it has no shorts I have checked the wires and fuses even replaced the starter but it is turns over won’t crank even with the kick start and battery is new as well I have also cracked the bleed screw on carb to make sure it was getting good fuel and it was so I have no clue what else to do or why it won’t crank if it has fuel and spark help please!

Father in law has had an old Arctic Cat and I finally convinced him he needed a Honda.

Found an 06 Rubicon, high miles, but runs good, plenty of power, tight front end, and was cheap.

Only issues seem to be occasionally the gear indicator on the meter will show —

It threw error code 5 last night when I went to back it off the trailer. I shut the key off, turned it back on, and it worked fine for the ride back to the shop.

Seems to intermittantly do this, especially if is ESP mode. If put in D1 or D2 it seems to do fine.

Looking at error code 5, looks like either the shift motor or the angle sensor could be the problem.

I plan to take off the front fender, clean all the connections, and grease them.

Given that the problem seems to be intermittant, more likely the shift motor or the angle sensor?

Open to any advice anyone can give. Haven’t ever really dug into a Rubicon before.

I just bought 97 300ex the guy said it needs new starter and a solenoid I got new solenoid hooked it up and it only clicks when I ground the green wire from solenoid that connects Into the wire harness.if I don’t ground that it won’t make any noises.when I turn key on the reverse light comes on but the neutral light never will I have good fuses and a battery I cleaned the terminals. Can anyone help please?

My cousin acquired one of these, nice looking bike, really impressed with 4 wheel drive with drive shafts, working machine.

Well it would be a working machine if we can get it running.

Everything is there but the CDI was missing. We ordered another one but the wires were pulled out of the connector and we don’t know where they go.

Bought a manual and it has wiring diagram but it just shows 6 connections, not how they go in the 2 over 4 connector.

Went ahead and got a new coil too.

Anyone have a pic or idea how to figure this out?

Vexed and Mythed.

Thanks

Hey I’m new to the forum.

I bought this atv a few weeks ago for $400. He initially told me it needs a battery and carburetor but it’ll still sometimes start if you jump the starter. I got it to start twice and rode it for maybe 5 mins or so each time. That was of course after I changed the oil and gas. A few days ago I went to start it and it sounds like the starter is spinning freely. I read that the starter clutch could be my problem. So I removed the cover only the find that the gear attached to the starter clutch seems to te working fine. It spins clockwise freely and locks up when spinning it counterclockwise. So I put it all back to getter and removed the big hex screw on the left that covers the flywheel bolt and tried to start it to confirm that the flywheel spins and it does. I notice before this problem when I tried to start it I could hear the pressure coming from the exhaust pipe but now nothing. Could anyone help me with this issue??