Hey all. It seems a lot of people have posted about ESP issues and flashing dashed lines, but on the gear display, but my issue seems slightly different. I bought the ATV a month ago and the only issues I had were a dead battery and it wouldn’t idle without a slight pull of the choke. The ATV wasn’t used much spending a majority of its time in an older gentleman’s garage collecting dust with only 100 hrs on it. Last week I was having a difficult time getting into reverse using the manual handle on the left side of the vehicle. Even though the handle was moved to the R position it would remain in neutral (with no dashed on the display just N). Today I changed the battery and was going to move it into the garage to change the oil and clean the carb. It started fine after the battery install. But when I went from neutral to drive (in AUTO), it displayed drive but didn’t move when i depressed the throttle. The engine revs fine, but wheeler moves freely when pushed with (drive displayed). I have to go all the way to reverse (some times) with the handle to get N to display. This makes me think it’s the mechanical shift cable. I know it is irrelevant, but when in ESP drive the electric shifter moter can be heard when I depress up or down and I get the proper gear displayed. However the wheeler still won’t go into gear and seemingly remains in neutral even though it displays in gear or drive. I took off the fender and it appears the cable from the handle is working (may be a bit sluggish however). I’m not hearing any grinding noises from the transmission. In fact I’m not hearing any transmission noises when I go from N to D (no clicks, movement, nothing 😕). I am some what mechanically inclinde, but no little about ATVs. Especially these new electronic shift Hondas. Any thoughts??

Hello everyone. Newbie joining up, but have been coming here for the occasional quick answer for years. Several years ago, my Fourtrax rear axle bearings were replaced and after just a couple trips through the mud and muck, water was getting inside the differential housing. I drained it and added new oil, but it wasn’t long before I heard a pop and what sounded like teeth breaking inside. I parked the bike and just haven’t messed with it in a couple years. People told me it was next to impossible to rebuild them where they would keep water out, so I began searching for an affordable replacement. After searching high and low for a wrecked bike to do a complete rear swap, I just decided to start tearing it apart to see how bad it was. Hopefully, by the end of this post, I’ll have it repaired (with the help of you guys) and someone else can benefit from the rebuild post. Here is the disassembly so far:

Rearend and swingarm have been removed. Left swingarm bearing was completely destroyed, so both of those bearings will be replaced as well

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My first post here and I’m looking for some help. I have a 2006 trx400ex that had an upgraded piston which caused the breakage of several parts. I have replaced the bottom end, piston, valves, CAM shaft sprocket, and a few other items. I have also had to redo the timing which is my first question. I have turned the timing both clockwise and counterclockwise does turning it the wrong way mess it up? my other issue is that it won’t start it had compression spark and gas but won’t start. the engine sounds fine (no knocking or anything like that) but every other second there’s like a puff noise that comes from the quad. hopefully someone will know what’s the matter and anything yall can help with would be great.
Thanks Ryan C.

My first post here and I’m looking for some help. I have a 2006 trx400ex that had an upgraded piston which caused the breakage of several parts. I have replaced the bottom end, piston, valves, CAM shaft sprocket, and a few other items. I have also had to redo the timing which is my first question. I have turned the timing both clockwise and counterclockwise does turning it the wrong way mess it up? my other issue is that it won’t start it had compression spark and gas but won’t start. the engine sounds fine (no knocking or anything like that) but every other second there’s like a puff noise that comes from the quad. hopefully someone will know what’s the matter and anything yall can help with would be great.
Thanks Ryan C.

I posted earlier but I don’t think I gave enough information, my foreman electric shift has been very slow to shift lately and was at the point that I would have to rock back-and-forth quite a few times and hit the electric shift buttons and it would gradually go into gear, the control motor sounded really slow so I took the control motor off and when I was taking it off Motor oil started leaking out of the bottom seal of the control motor and the reduction gears were covered in oil as well So I started doing a little homework and referd to the trusty manual, and now I’m as confused as hell! … Is Motor oil supposed to be in the reduction gear housing? Can someone please please please direct me to what I’m supposed to be looking at next.
Thanks for taking the time to read this.

I posted earlier but I don’t think I gave enough information, my foreman electric shift has been very slow to shift lately and was at the point that I would have to rock back-and-forth quite a few times and hit the electric shift buttons and it would gradually go into gear, the control motor sounded really slow so I took the control motor off and when I was taking it off Motor oil started leaking out of the bottom seal of the control motor and the reduction gears were covered in oil as well So I started doing a little homework and referd to the trusty manual, and now I’m as confused as hell! … Is Motor oil supposed to be in the reduction gear housing? Can someone please please please direct me to what I’m supposed to be looking at next.
Thanks for taking the time to read this.

I replaced the rings it started and idled fine. I shut it off let it cool and went to start again but wouldnt start. Any suggestions on what to do next

:frown:I just bought a can of sea foam today and can’t seem to find on the label how much to add to my gas tank. any advice appreciated

1996 fourtrax 300. I have been kick starting but now I don’t have any spark. I know very little about electrical/wiring. Mice got in by the battery and fuses and chewed on a bunch of wires. I don’t care about the starter or tail light wires. Which of the wires would need to be replaced to be able to kick start it again ? Thanks.

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I have a 2000 Recon 250 that I’m trying to resurrect. As of now it belongs to my father in law, he said it’s mine for $400 if I want it, but I don’t want to make a decision until it’s at least running. It was running when he bought it, but hasn’t ran since then, about 3 weeks ago.

After charging the battery, I drained the gas tank and put new gas in it. Lots of trash came out of the tank. I attached a picture of the gas that I drained into a 5 gallon bucket. It actually fired up and ran for about a minute, but it would only stay running with me pulling on the choke and holding it. Either way, I was happy that it ran for a bit.

Well, after I got it to run, I decided to call it a day. I went back outside about 15 minutes later and saw there was a steady stream of gas running down the engine from the gas tank. After removing it again I noticed that the gas line had a cut on it. Not to mention that the petcock seems to be in really bad shape. I’m going to see if I can rebuild it.

Today I plan on buying a new spark plug, gas filter, and gas line. I also plan on cleaning the gas tank with some Marvel Mystery Oil, I hear it works well.

If the petcock is bad and doesn’t cut the gas flow, will that flood the carb while the atv is turned off? Also, whats the deal with the difference between positions on the petcock and the body panel on the four wheeler? The petcock shows ON, OFF, and RES in different locations that the body panel…. could it be that it has the incorrect petcock installed?

JF

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