Hello from Texas!

I work at an all repair shop here in central Texas. I have a customers 04 Rubicon here in the shop. It has 3700 miles on it. It runs very good with no problems at all until it gets hot. When it gets hot is when the transmission issues start. It grinds, bad!

At this point, I’m trying to figure out whether its worth rebuilding the tranny or just replacing it. It’s a 4X4. I’ve cracked open Hondas before, but this is the first hydrostatic transmission. With 20 years in the tech industry, I’m pretty confident I can fix it, my question to you guys is, is it worth the hassle to rebuild or just replace? I like saving the customer money when I can.

I’ve checked the basics already.

Thank you in advance.

Where can I find these and what are they called? Don’t wanna go to the dealer because it is pretty far away.

Was running good for a while, turns over good, just very hard to get fired up, very little spark, intermittent, I ordered a new coil and put it on, any other suggestions?

Hey,

My 1999 TRX developed a running problem. Last time I drove it, it was perfect. It sat for 2 weeks, now it has an issue.

It idles ok, But too high. It pops and sputters mid band but goes like hell at full throttle.

I am a licensed mechanic and this one is driving me nuts.

I have removed the card twice. Jets cleaned in an ultra sonic bath. Carb body whistle clean.

– Doesn’t matter where you set the pilot screw.

– Idle set screw is out all the way and the throttle cable is not binding. Throttle plate is fully closed but still idles too high.

– Choke slider is free and clean, works well. (rubber oring leak?)

It acts like the timing is too advanced. I swapped out the CDI box, no change.

It is going to give it a full shake down tonight. Valve adjust, Cam timing check, compression etc.

– I don’t believe the carb rubber intake is leaking however it gives me a vacuum leak feeling.

If any one has suggestions, I would greatly appreciate it.

Cheers :wub:

Have 2011 420 FM with two inch lift an big tires what’s a good axel to go with that’s not OEM that’s strong an holds up

Have 2011 420 FM with two inch lift an big tires what’s a good axel to go with that’s not OEM that’s strong an holds up

Hello everyone, went out riding yesterday for most of the day everything worked fine no problem. Suddenly today my atv will not start it just makes a clicking sound. The battery is fine it does not seem to be the issue. Any idea’s would be helpful.

I bought this atv a couple of months ago for pretty cheap looking to make a project out of it. It ran at the time but smoked horribly. So I tore it apart and found the rings were smashed stuck, piston scratched on 4 corners along with the cylinder. It was already bored out to the max so I bought a new cylinder piston rings and also decided to replace the crankshaft due to some questionable play. I figured the smoke was due to the worn piston and rings… fast forward a month after getting parts a few times, I put it back together and the POS still smokes just as bad as it did the first day I brought it home!

(I forgot to mention I did replace the valve seals)

Honda ATV Forums please help! The problems I’ve had while rebuilding this are unreal. From tearing into it I know the previous mechanic was a complete moron so anything is possible. What could cause it to still be smoking/burning through all the oil in the reservoir in a matter of minutes? Could it have something to do with the oil pump? Possibly not working..

Wondering if I could get some input on a problem I am having? I turn the key on and push in on start button and get nothing, tried to push start it wanted to try to start, but nothing, noticing where the small plastic tank looking thing between 2 fuel lines have no fuel in them!! Anyone have any idea what I may be able to do here?

Is there any difference between a battery tender and a trickle charger that says is automatically shuts off when the battery has reached full capacity. This is to prevent over charging??