What size socket in metric will fit the axle nuts on an ’06 Rancher? I did a search and about 6 different answers were replied. I have an 1 1/8" wrench and it fit but a little loose, so what metric size would that be?
The search answers were 20mm, 24mm, 27mm, 30mm. Headed to the store and not wanting to buy that many sockets…

Hi,
I am working on our old reliable 2000 Honda Recon. It has given us many years of good service, even stood up to lead foot teenage boy who rode it like there was no tomorrow.
I have run into a question I need help with.
In the image below it shows two #29 Oil seals on the left side.These seals prevent gear oil from getting into the brake drum area.Do both seals install in the differential housing or does one install in the housing, followed by the collar made into the axle, then the second seal?
I replaced axle and bearings couple years ago, missed these oil seals, found my brake drum full of gear oil. OOPs.

Recently purchased a 400ex off craigslist; When doing some basic maintenance, I found that the head cover was missing a few bolts. I ordered OEM replacements for the missing ones. When installing them, I found that the two on the left side (facing forward) would not mate correctly. I also found that the OEM version did not match the one that I pulled out. Also, after looking down into the other hole, is seems to be some sort of reduction. Neither of these seem correct to me. idk what was done before as I was told the engine was stock. With that being said, I was planning on just pulling the head cover off and assessing any potential damage now while I have the bike stripped. Question 1) Is this a simple task (I have a pdf service manual)? 2) Is there anything that you recommend doing while I have the cover off? Replace gasket, valve seals, etc?

I’m new to quads and have about average mechanical skills. I bought a 2006 trx250ex that the previous owner ruined the jug/piston/cylinder head, I’ve bought all new OEM parts and want to put it back together myself but am not sure how or if I can swap out the valves and valve components on the old cylinder head to the new? Do I need a specific tool to get them out and back in the new head or should I buy new ones?

I purchased a used 2001 rubicon about 2 months ago, it was in great shape and only had 2000 miles on it and i think about 250 hours. Seller said it had been sitting for awhile and needed carb cleaned. It cranked fine and ran good untill i put it in esp mode and it sputtererd a little so i put it back in d1 paid the man and left. Got it home rode it for about 30 min and the angle sensor went out. Changed sensor and it fixed THAT problem. Carb still acting up at this point. Now it cranks up no problem and runs fine for about 2 min and starts sputtering when i give it gas (worse in warm weather). Runs great at higher speeds. I cleaned carb twice, rebuilt carb, plug air filter all that and still sputters. It seems to be getting worse but its getting warmer outside witch is making me think its something electrical especaily because it dont act right in esp mode. I put meter on throttel sensor and it was in range also. Ecm maybe? Diode somewhere maybe? At the end of my rope with this thing. Please tell me something good. Thanks

I purchased a used 2001 rubicon about 2 months ago, it was in great shape and only had 2000 miles on it and i think about 250 hours. Seller said it had been sitting for awhile and needed carb cleaned. It cranked fine and ran good untill i put it in esp mode and it sputtererd a little so i put it back in d1 paid the man and left. Got it home rode it for about 30 min and the angle sensor went out. Changed sensor and it fixed THAT problem. Carb still acting up at this point. Now it cranks up no problem and runs fine for about 2 min and starts sputtering when i give it gas (worse in warm weather). Runs great at higher speeds. I cleaned carb twice, rebuilt carb, plug air filter all that and still sputters. It seems to be getting worse but its getting warmer outside witch is making me think its something electrical especaily because it dont act right in esp mode. I put meter on throttel sensor and it was in range also. Ecm maybe? Diode somewhere maybe? At the end of my rope with this thing. Please tell me something good. Thanks

I have a 2000 Honda Rancher TRX350FE. I went to change the differential oil in the front and rear and ended up using twice as much oil as what the capacity "should be". Should’ve only needed 12oz total and used about 24oz. It all went in and isn’t leaking, so I’m wondering what’s goin on. Does it mean the seals are out?? Thanks for any advise here.

Trying to get to the bottom of my front drive problems.
Should the prop shaft turn all the time?
Does the 4wd switch lock 4wd in at the front clutch?
Just want to rule a few things out before i remove front diff/replace sensors.
Thanks

I am getting to know this place too well. I have fixed my issues with the gas line and I thought I fixed my leads but I was wrong. Today I wired by
Quad up with the lead w/ the solenoid and fuse on (+) and the other shorter lead on (-) but when I hooked up my charger for a jump I had no electronics, no lights, no dash, not even a click on the starter. The battery read 2V and it is a 12V (I am 90% sure it is a 9BS on a 05 TRX250EX) I used my multi to resistance test both leads the one with the fuse read OL(Overload) and the other made the multi beep and had a high reading. My multi is a Fluke clamp meter in case that matters. I did electronics a long while ago and my memory is old so I just need some reminders on how I messed up 🙂

I am getting to know this place too well. I have fixed my issues with the gas line and I thought I fixed my leads but I was wrong. Today I wired by
Quad up with the lead w/ the solenoid and fuse on (+) and the other shorter lead on (-) but when I hooked up my charger for a jump I had no electronics, no lights, no dash, not even a click on the starter. The battery read 2V and it is a 12V (I am 90% sure it is a 9BS on a 05 TRX250EX) I used my multi to resistance test both leads the one with the fuse read OL(Overload) and the other made the multi beep and had a high reading. My multi is a Fluke clamp meter in case that matters. I did electronics a long while ago and my memory is old so I just need some reminders on how I messed up 🙂